GTSBoy

Yeah. given that you can't actually use that much power on the street anyway, it seems kinda pointless to set it up to do so.

There's no real glare. The ground was wet bitumen, so the light on the wall above the cut line is reflected off the ground..

Well, it can, which is why 4 port solenoids and then ultimately CO2/high pressure gas control exist.

Sounds like it's f**ked. It's going to have to come off, so you might as well go do it now while the sun's out.

The vertical wear marks on the top of the cylinder walls did not occur with just a few seconds or now oil pressure. That is from long term wear. The damage on the top of the pistons looks like light detonation has been occurring, also probably over a long period. There could be any number of reasons for all this, from bad fuel to bad injectors, to running a car at 1.3 bar without considering the need to put it on a dyno and check the tune is actually good for it. An ECU upgrade probably would have been wise, years ago. That engine is coming out and you will be able to "save" it. You will not be able to "save" it without a complete rebuild though. No-one in their right mind would put it back together without a complete rebuild, which is going to cost >15+ thousand Euros. Pistons, oil pump, bearings, gaskets, lots of machining work. Then if you're opening it up and doing things to it, you should also put in rods and much better fasteners, head studs, cams, and so on.

And when he says "antenna", it's probably just a marker, not an electrical/electronic thing. No sensor. Just visual indicator. For people who can't drive.

This is ~7.5m from the wall. The apparent lack of horizontal-ness would be because of the slope of surface the car is on. Camera sat on top of steering wheel, to attempt to give similar view as I get. For context as to height of the cut line - the high side (left side) of the Z is about numberplate height on a Forester or RAV when following at normal 3ish car lengths. This may be a tiny fraction too high still. Hi beams may be still aimed a little high. I haven't had a chance to run them on a dark road yet.

How big is the TB?

+ R32 with small differences in body side electrics and the difference in ATTESA preload.

I might head on down to the Bunnings precinct when I go out for pizza tonight. Tilt-up concrete walls are as close to white as you'll find anywhere in the local crime zone.

Just copy any image that you have open in another browser or in an image viewer on your PC, and just paste it directly into the message compose box where you want to see it. It will upload and insert it and it won't ever suffer from broken links.

:D

Yuh. Time for the hydraulic nut splitter. Or his poor Mexican cousin, el Grindo.

I already told you it was a push in.

Impact. 1/2" rattle gun.

That "mess" looked eminently repairable anyway.

I think the fitting into the exhaust cam cover that takes the 2 breather hoses just pushes into the cam cover. Just....rotate it or pull it out?

Absolutely. While Pitworks is really good stuff, there is absolutely no reason why any other 4PK of the right length won't work. That includes belts that a few mm either side.

The Apexi DIN 3 is just 3x gauges. You can achieve the same goal via a number of different approaches. You can buy 3x 52mm stepper motor gauges and their accompanying sensors and fit that up with a 3x gauge mount. I have EGT, Boost and Oil Temp in mine. If I were starting from scratch these days, I would buy an LCD or OLED screen, driver board and Arduino or similar and build from scratch.

If you can't do the calculations in your head, you can use an on-line offset calculator to show you how far the inner and outer edges of the rim will move with changes in width and offset. For example, done in my head, your change from 10" +35 to 9.5" +38 will have the following effect, which I will describe in steps so you can follow it. The width is 0.5' less, so that's 12.7mm. Call it 13, because near enough. If this was the only change, both inner and outer edges would be an extra 1/4" (6.35mm) further in towards the centre of the wheel, giving that much more clearance both sides. But, with your change in offset from +35 to +38, which moves the hub face towards the outside of the wheel, you will move both those rim edges by 3mm. So your outer edge will now be about 9-10mm further into the guard, and the inner edge of the rim will now be ~3-4mm further away from the suspension. You gain more clearance everywhere, but it is biased away from being evenly shared by the change in offset. On the front wheels, you're only changing offset. The wheel rim will move into the guard by that 5mm. On an 8.5" rim, I would be worried that the tyre will foul the upright. I have 8" +35 on my R32 (so, yes, different suspension pieces, but the same basic design, so what is true for R32 may or may not be same same to the mm as R33). I have absolutely bugger all clearance from the tyre to the upright when sitting at ride height. That's with 235/45 tyres. If I want to go wider at the front, say to an 8.5", then I need the entire additional width to be on the outer edge, which would mean pushing the offset down to +28 (technically +29 would do it, but....who's ever heard of a +29 wheel?). That would leave my inner edge where it is and push the outer out by the extra half inch. Having said that last part, apparently R33 GTR wheels, which are 9" +30, fit on an R32. I can't see that happening on my car because it would use up 8mm more clearance. Maybe the way to do it is to stretch a 245 tyre onto them instead of using a tyre that will fit the 9" better and have a more upright sidewall. This aspect of selecting tyres to make less appropriate wheel choices fit remains an option. In your case....you have the car. you have the wheels fitted. Drive all 4 wheels up onto some blocks of wood so you can slide underneath it and have a look at all the clearances yourself. You will learn a lot and understand what happens when you change things. You can get someone fat to climb in the boot and see what happens when the rear suspension compresses. Do the same by having them sit on the radiator support panel at the front.

Makes more sense.

Well, being a Corolla, and there existing Caldinas and other 4WD Toyotas both newer and older than 1996, you'd think you could use a Toyota donor. But there's no point in discussing this as if it was a serious possibility. Dropping an enormous sum of money on a 30 year old Corolla is pure bong smoke.

I bid $20k!

No. Too old for BCM controlled anything.

You'd need a clutch too. So probably more like $4.50.