2rismo

Yeah, thanks for that.

Behind the dash.

Have a look at the pics I posted and you'll see the feed from the new pickup in the sump pan. Here is a pic of a gutted standard pump with block-off. ****PLEASE NOTE**** This is just how I did it. I am not part of this group buy and I'm just trying to help Paul/Mark/The-Rest-Of-You out with some visuals.

That is very bloody cheap. Great for someone who wants to drive on the street and hit the drags very occassionally with the same rubber.

I don't understand what specs you need.

Congrats and best of luck with the new venture, mate.

Well it could also go in place of your power steering if you're keen to fit a manual rack or pump up and get some arms on you.

The pump will flow more than enough for whatever any of you need. The gears on the front of the crank pulley and the pump govern the speed of the pump. You'll generally drive the pump at half engine speed but I know Mark has a pretty good idea about where he likes the ratio to be. Tomek - this is NOT a dry sump pump. It is an external wet sump pump. All - yes air con is gay.

That's about on the money for a full setup. That would include all the -12 Speedflow and braid as well as the filters, pickup, brackets, crank bolt, pulleys etc too. Nice to have this as an off-the-shelf kit for people to buy instead of wasting their money on remanufactured OEM shit.

Sorta kinda....

If anyone saw the thread I posted in the Drag section on that 8-sec daily driver they might have noticed it runs an AOD variation too. They're certainly becoming a serious option now. I reckon they will be in aus in about 10 years. lol

It becomes a dollar issue with custom converters though. If it was a Windsor/C4 combo then a stock converter will work. But when you start mixing your manufacturers it means getting a second custom job made just to tune. PITA.

There's little point in doing that aside from pure interest's sake. Racing converters are very different between stall speeds and this is where all the difference will come from. A 3000rpm converter will be different from a 5500rpm converter probably in peak hp but almost certainly in terms of the area under the curve.

So Methylated Spirits then? That's what you're talking about right?

Because they're quoting the engine power as measured at the flywheel - i.e. before the drivetrain. Aside from different components or a different tune-up, there's no other way to account for the difference in power. They're not accounting for the drivetrain because they're not talking about rwhp.

They can't be accounting for a loss that hasn't happened yet.

Stan, think about it like this: You have a 100hp engine that makes 65hp at the wheels. That's 35% loss, yes? Then you whack some gas on it and it now makes 150hp at the engine. Would you expect the wheel hp to be 97.5hp (35% loss) or more like 115hp (the same actual hp loss as the original scenario)? Assuming the same driveline (flywheel/flexplate, clutch/converter, gearbox, tailshaft, diff, driveshafts/axles), why should there be significantly more (nearly 12% extra) drivetrain loss just because you upped the engine hp? Sure there might be more heat/noise created (in the drivetrain) but sticking to an arbitrary and uniform drivetrain loss percentage or amount is ridiculous. Even so, I've heard some otherwise very switched on people suggest it as fact.

Yes. Intercooler in cabin. You'll also notice that the intake pipe to the 90deg elbow on top of the manifold comes forward through the firewall, from the intercooler.

I'm almost positive there's a How To on this very forum.

I'm pretty sure Nissan's quoted kW figures are at the flywheel (187 vs. 184 for example) and as such, reflect different states of tune rather than different drivelines. If you've seen another spec I'm unaware of then apologies in advance.

They're a smaller looking car than an XF but at 3650lbs race weight this is showing some serious horsepower. An F2 Procharger is a big puppy too.

Taken from a US forum:

We just put a tiny pulley on the front of the pump and spin it really hard! LOL! I may have been exaggerating a little by saying it was 9/10's full of grout It is above the water feed for the turbo though (had to take feed and return from the other side of the motor.

...apart from the tools, the time, the space and the confidence that you wont make an elementary mistake that will involve having the engine pulled and the job done properly by someone you should have paid in the first place.

Practice. Learn on shit tyres and you'll be a demon on good ones.