R31Nismoid

lol low 30s for a R34 GTR dreamer

CAMS or AASA CAMS you'll need to sort prior AASA you can just get on the day

Ideally a leak down test & comp test is what you wanna do, that's several hours easily logged and a few hundred. Also take it to a proper panel shop for a good look over of previous repair/damage etc. Just in pre-inspections you'll easily mince $500 IMO if you are doing it right and getting it looked over correctly. You expect a workshop to do something like that for free? It's not a 5min job! You'd be looking at an hour labour at least and doing it with one person would be a mega PIA especially if you are doing a double take for sanity. But yes you can buy cheap ones - DIY isn't too hard, but its also easy to get wrong and think a motor is in worse/better condition than it actually is.

Ah ic ic, no worries Chris thanks! Winton probably in the same boat then

Do you have a boost plot for the 3ltr/272/2530? The set-up looks about as responsive as a 2.6ltr with -5s/stock cams Reference 2530s obviously being a little bigger and what not, would be interesting to see where the boost is. Obviously dyno differences and what not come into play so only a guide overall.

Rear diff was working on this occasion And first outing in the GTR @ Haunted Hills... 2nd run of the day, little to excited. (thanks to Martin for the pics) Thanks to Kory/7Tune for this one

And I am agreeing And bringing more informationz! And Ye...

Without looking at the exhaust it's impossible to say that. A lot of jap "3 inch" exhausts actually have a 2.5-2.75 inch reducer internally where the mufflers start to reduce noise. So they are not true 3 inch systems at all. Without testing it, you cannot tell. Easiest way to do so, get it on a dyno and do a before/after - after being dropping it from the dump pipe.

124mph is what a full weight (1700kg+) R33 GTR will do with 330-350rwkw. No way it was 500rwhp in a lighter body with 124mph

Is their calendar done? Can't find an easy version on their site...

+1 and the 3" exhaust. Realistically it should be 20-24psi and well over 350rwkw.

the bottom graph looks more like a TE graph as it falls away, the top one barely falls away at all and that doesn't make sense as TE will always drop away as if you look at the second graph the power holds. But then i could be totally wrong and confused

Ye they are sending them all over the place. I was out the back @ the Euro workshop getting some cable tie modification, I don't think they were very used to that lol, and even he had one there Gonna get a few of them for myself, they are quite awesome although i did notice a interesting addition to the HR31 lineup.

Oh yes indeed, looking from my phone again, i should stop doing that The boost graph is even lazier then than i thought now im looking from my PC. Definately exhaust and get the boost control sorted so it comes on much earlier like it should. It still could indeed be the cams not dialled in correctly too.

Im just running off actuators and a bleed, on much sooner than you are Fix the exhaust, also check the cams are correctly dialled in, that can often be a problem. Get 20psi holding rather than falling away to 15psi and you'll be right.

It's called the divine power... Or commmonly known as discretion Treat all members with respect and courtesy - We will ban any member(s) who make personal attacks, threats or mistreats any other member in anyway (discretion is up to the moderator at the time of the offence)

haha Shan gets to sleep on the street He'll fit in nicely at least

lol

lol I've shared a room with him before in Benalla... You've been warned (just kidding, he doesn't snore or misbehave, WINRAR)

Decent radiator, a good flush of the system and a good bleed. Will make the world of difference, keep the stock cooling fan as well.

What kind of cooling setup does it have currently? That's the first place to start. 110 is silly hot. Mine with nothing other than a solid radiator and properly bled cooling system etc, never gets about 70 driving around. And when really giving it curry the other week @ the Thunderdome, 5 laps i was only around 95 or so... 110 is major problem corner for the street/ AFMs aren't causing you problems, given that's all you'd need - minor tune adjustment and it's done. Rather than starting from that start etc.

Problem is it's not just the quality of the welds, it's the actual metal it's made out of. Cheap grade will run the risk of cracking, bending and so on. Thats why the ebay stainles ones for the majority tend to crack/fail as their walls are thin - it's not just a welding issue. Under 300rwkw - stick to the stock manifold as plenty use it without a problem. Better to go with tried and proven rather than taking a gamble and then it failing.

There should be a trophy only for NSW GTR owners - the SBS (Sump Baffle Syndrome) trophy. Could have a few shagged bearings mounted on some posts in a glass box.

lol @ food court! I did the Tan, St Kilda Rd and then CBD today driving around/picking stuff up etc. Was a good day to be out

Depends on overall setup. And then add in the usual mass conjecture that surrounds cam choice (which makes it very hard). Please advise full list of mods, perhaps compare against setups in the Dyno Threads as well?