AngryRB

Question- If a 3inch exhaust can make 300rwkw's on Skyline, can an Ls1 make the same 300rwkws? if not how much? Question- How would a Jap muffler, eg. HKS hi power silent with silencer sound on a LS1? same same or epic fail haha Take into consideration that 250kw's is the target max power and just after a decent sound with no drone.....

After replacing lifters in my LS1, I doubt the oil viscosity and pressures is all that significant, I pulled out a few that were solid but many that had bled out badly and the motor isn't dirty, I think just call it how it is, the lifters are near 20years old, they have done their job, time to replace..

Before you spent too much on an RB20, consider an RB25 or RB30det, when the $$$ start flowing you only have a 2L as your base..

hmm, just took off the resonator off the rear, and Fark!!!! thing sounds like a V8 for the first time, been told by local exhaust shop that its illegal and if i weld straight pipes to the back it will drone big time. arrgggghhhh!!!

Do these engines need such large exhausts? a single 3inch on a skyline is enough for over 300kw's, the plan was to get the cat pipes and cats done next and then OTR plus tune and be happy with whatever that puts out, maybe 220-240kw's.. I have a single 3inch X force muffler that sounded good on the skyline, seeing as the rear muffler is so far back from the engine, would this work without suffocating the flow?

If going with ben's idea, would a pair of Hooker 2.5inch mufflers sounds good without drone? look like a good bit of gear

Stegea97- at first it wouldn't fit up, but then I loosened the bolts on the cat pipes and manifold to cat pipes and it seems to bold up ok, but it does seem to hang quiet low at the rear, could do with being tucked up as theres almost a foot clearance above the rear resonator, as seen in pics.

Ben- that looks like a good idea, what did it sound like with them on the back? I still want the V8 rumble etc just not the drone, at the moment Its all engine above 2500rpm, which is almost silent.

Its very confusing reading all the commodore forums, they all say this system is the best, so ive spent $800 thinking that it would sound nice and meaty, it does on the youtube clips, the local supplier and the main business in Melbourne both say its very unusual and unheard of that the system would drone.. Ive had several opinions, probably all biased because they are business's that want some $$ spent at there shop.. they all agree that adding extractors and cats will make it worse and seem to think that the system is a rebranded redback system and just shit, the company says that's not possible as they only supply the "di fillippo" label to be welded to there system and cant be just bought and rebranded.... Ok so , latest word from the company is, " We have a VU ute here with same system and no drone or issue's, but first run the exhaust for 1000km's to "bed it in" and then let us know and we'll try to fix it". so do you guys think, will this exhaust stop droning once it has done 1000km's?????

anyone?

So I just fitted a di fillippo 2.5inch twin system to a VU SS ute with ls1, everything else is stock.. The problem is its droning pretty bad on idle and upto 1500rpm, after that its very quiet but with a nice V8 sound coming thru, so I'm after any advice on what to do with it. I just want a throaty, rumble without a drone , it sounds like an RB30 with no mufflers. I've called the manufacturer and supplier, both say they've never heard of the system droning, so suggest it must be vibration of the body or touching something, well seems pretty good to me , i think its the rear resonator that maybe isn't doing much? I have a few things in mind 1) replace rear resonator with a quality muffler like magna flow 2) see if an exhaust shop can make up a J pipe 3) add some 100cell cats and 2.5inch pipe from the manifold back, 4) the tail pipes are well over a foot long, should they be shorter? Ive read all the commodore forums and nothing mentioned about this system except its the best etc...

It shouldn't be that hard to connect a EBC, it needs a source of pressure, it needs to be connected to the wastegate, then it needs to be able to bleed that pressure off, simple as that.. on my apexi, one end of the solenoid has the tube connected to the FPR, other end to the wastegate, simple as that, the solenoid has its one hole to bleed pressure off and control boost, the electrics plug in to controller and that's it..

I wouldn't stress over it, id put the fmic on and tighten all pipes properly, then just set up wastegate as stock until you can figure out or find some to install it properly.. it would be stalling because the pipes were loose, so a vacuum leak

Its a tough one, doesn't look stuffed to me, id try the comp test and also look at the plugs, and also the train chug as mentioned, might give some answers You can get smoke like that under vacumn when the valve guides are rooted, first start up in morning would probably see white smoke out the tail pipe, and again when idling for long time then reviing it.. could check that too.

I don't understand how you cant have boost, whats stopping it? the only way to not get boost would be to remove the actuator?

I seem to remember 2 threads where there was a low power output, one was the GTX3067 thread and other Hanaldo's thread, correct me if im wrong but I think both had return flow intercoolers and JJR dump pipes..

a set of mild cams would drop the comp 30psi on a comp test, if that were the case those numbers would start to become decent.. In most other similar posts everyone is fine with a 10percent variance so why the walk away in this case?

My RB25 has a suspected ring land failure, has 90psi in on cylinder 5 ( always seem to be the cylinders at near the firewall ) but I never had any smoke, certainly chugged like a train though,

enjoy the awesome tunes it makes mate !!

white/grey smoke I believe points toward oil/coolant being burnt after the engine?? so would point toward worn turbo seals, then noise maybe from broken/leaking gaskets bolts or shaft play. If your guage takes pressure readings from the intake manifold and its 12psi, then it could be 14psi at the turbo which would probably kill a stock turbo if its old which it is.

Seems im wrong here.. , this spring issue was never raised by my tuner and a lot of others seem to bolt stock neo heads onto RB30's seemingly without issues?

how do the springs know what psi is being given?

why not just see how it goes on the dyno? pretty sure a lot of people have had no issues without even opening the motor.. worst case scenario is they start to valve bounce and you have to change them then a touch up tune??????

I'd like to know if using stiffer springs causes the lifter to collapse a little and decrease the amount of lift of the cam? I recently pulled some shagged lifters and I know the engine wasn't breathing too well, but maybe not relevant here.

Maybe matts turbo was build on a Tuesday and Mick's on a a Friday arvo near knock off time Don't they use a garrett cartridge?