AngryRB

I'm not expert but id say if you want to loose fat then , maybe keep the workouts shorter and more intense, say 30mins with shorter rest periods and then 30mins of cardio. Keep the carbs low and increase protein and healthy fats, maybe drop dairy products out. Avoid simple sugars or only have them straight after the workout with a protein drink. I've found a good meal I have twice a day is a bowl of spinach, 1 tomato, a tin of salmon and some rice, mix this with a little mayo and its a filling healthy meal. You could also try cycling the carbs by one day each week having a lot then the next few days have very low carbs. oh and you want to drink a lot of water.

yeah that's it, Liqui-Moly, looks like a good product, its nice and light, the engine feels more responsive so will see how it goes.

interesting read, so if that's correct we should be running thin oils like 0-30w for the street and if the lifters are dirty you'd need thin oil to up the flow into them?

Are there any air bubbles in the oil, some lifter problems are caused by air being sucked up through a leaking pickup seal/gasket

hypergear SS2

anyone use moly-chrome 10w-40, i just put some in the Ls1, its very clear and clean looking compared to the penrite oils that have a darkish look straight out the bottle, autobarn guy said its german and good stuff.

Maybe check the TPS is set correctly and possibly a fluctuating voltage from the alternator.. I had this sort of issue and never found the exact cause but i know the alternator was acting weird and tuner said the TPS needed adjustment so it wouldn't have be so sensitive to light throttle...

as far as the vacumn , with my 256's it was around the neg 20-25, when there was a leak it did hover around neg 10, also if the timing was retarded it would too Mine was jerky when taking off which the tuner mentioned was the TPS that need a tweak and yes spray some around the plenum and joints and see if it gets sucked in and changes the idle... Probably best to get a tuner to look at it though, you might end up doing damage if giving it some..

The reduced vacumn you have mentioned could point toward a vacumn leak, id spray some carby clearner and test it, can remember similar with mine when it wouldn't idle, does it try to stall when reversing on 1000rpm or take off? old plenum gaskets can leak when your pushing boost.

From my previous experience with weirdly high fuel consumption, i found the purge control and fuel return line plumbed up wrong, check that your fuel return is on the pump properly or else the intake manifold will suck up fuel straight from the tank under vacuum from the manifold, in my case my consumption was 20L/100km and came down to 12L/100km which is quite a difference, also consider the fuel reg which can leak raw fuel into the intake.... You will want to sort this out cause it will lead to premature wear on the cylinders, and could result in piston slap from having the cylinders constantly being washed and running dry...

bump... want this gone, strap it on your RB20 and do some zututututuutu , you'll find chicks getting naked on the corner for you... lol

Not sure what the problem is but i can confirm the tomei cams 256 8.5lift dropped my comp from 175 to 150psi, so that part sounds normal.

Stock r33 turbo, bought off a member, used it for a week, no smoke or shaft play, VGC - $150 Brisbane 0466257118

It looks like the compressor map says it does have more left, 16/17psi you'd think is far from game over with the GTX compressors, with the right setup eg. E85, boost, timing, external gate's , a good tuner , then it could become a different beast again.

I think the cams maybe too much for the lifters, My Ls1 has this lifter problem too but I don't know the history of the car, on Ls1 forums a lot of them have to go aftermarket lifter with a cam swap, There's some info on this site, its talking bout LS1's but its still about lifters, the stiffer springs and aftermarket cams put more load on the lifter apparently. www.oztrack.com.au Ls engine trouble info ( article)

yeah was amazing seeing what they were actually working on hey.. I remember when I dropped my car off for a dump pipe at one of those shops, 2 weeks later nothing done, several phone calls drop ins, nothing more, 2weeks more I just got shits and picked it up, I put the intake pipes on and drove it away, guy said, don't worry the bov doesn't need hooked up, err well I think it does cause its running like shit???? They did the dump in a hurry before I came, intake pipe wasn't done, the dump was banging under the body, wasn't done right , still charged over a grand for a 3.5inch dump and external plumb back,..... I know what they were working on, the bloody GTR's that guys were paying 5k plus on, they take on jobs when they are already 6months behind.. .next guy I went to, it was done in the day no worries, and brilliant job.. rant over..

Looking at the CP and wiseco pistons in comparison to the Tomei, they have more cooling channels, so probably allows greater head expansion which suits street applications better, a titanium coated top ring sounds good but machining would have to be spot on to bed it in , there's a strange cut out on one side of the tomei skirt , not sure why.. im sure any forged piston will do the job though, just good to compare designs as the jap's seem to do a good job with the engines compared to US specs. tomei pics are on RhdJapan website

bump, gonna chuck this exhaust out if no one picks it up, taking up space.

has anyone used a Tomei piston, from my search's people say they are a good piston and that Japanese pistons can be fitted tigher ( 1.9 to 2.2thou), if so it sounds like a good quiet piston apart from the extra cost of them, how do Japanese pistons compare to the American stuff, any better or just a waste of money????? oh and im obviously referring not referring to an RB30 piston cause they don't make RB30 pistons I don't think

Take the CAS out and check you havn't actually broke the shaft, if its not aligned properly it shears off, it would start missing badly until it sheared off then, nothing , as OP described. Also as said, check the timing marks line up incase the belt has come loose, from incorrect torque settings on the tensioners and crank pulley bolt.

Could always add a water/meth kit with the R34 cooler, that might work assuming it will be tuned anyway

^^^ +1, or you could use the forged pistons in an RB30 block and go GT35, proven with no guess work..

no overboosting happening there, its the opposite, graphs looks like the gate could be stuck open, full boost at 7500rpm? May as well just bolt on a GT40

yep bloody pain getting a good one, and bloody expensive doing a full rebuild unless your ok with a slapper.. people are bullshitters too, mine with 120k apparently turnt out to be a joke.. and who seriously expects a 26yr old block to be sweet anyway.. not me

could it be the silly noises from a stock turbo spooling stupidly early?