domino_z

bump dealer fix was to remove discs and remove surface rust from the rub and regrease clicking noise reduced by about 50% all last week did some spirited driving on weekend and it's back with a vengeance now. So I don't think it has anything to do with the rust, it's just a major design flaw I'm thinking about replacing the two front hubs, they aren't too expensive out of US (around 600 shipped) and I can do the swap myself to save on the labour

mmmmm old school http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-kpgc10-skyline-gt-r-badge-emblem-54618

try rhdjapan.com their prices are really competitive but if it's only a few extra bucks buy local

as a hobbiest detailer i couldnt fathom having my cars washed by low paid indian students, but then again everyone has diff priorities in life and some have other things to do instead of busting out the karcher etc on a weekend nor would i simply high pressure the panels and then wipe all the dirt into the super soft nissan clear coat with a shamwow op if you want someone to look after your car, shoot me a pm, i can recommend you a mobile detailer in your state who will do an at home wash

wingless ftw!

Steering wheel sold i now have my oem binnacle lid and surround available following on from this thread, i originally bought spares to have re-trimmed. these are the parts off my own car, perfect for anyone who wants to do same/similar http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379476-improving-r35-interior-with-a-few-items/ $180

i sent my parts to them - with this particular part i bought a spare as i couldnt be off the road for over 1 month waiting for it to come back i have both of my oem pieces available if anyone wants to do same/similar

i didn't do the carbon wrap, it was done by Revozport in Hong Kong - i definitely recommend them if anyone wants trim wrapped. You can choose gloss finish or a different weave if you prefer i really don't know how they cut the edges so cleanly without distorting the weave as it's not folded on the underside

ill most likely come up for a day trip next step now is replacing my oem centre console trim - its full of chips and scratches after 1 yr fingers crossed it's not ott expensive ill try matte clear wrapping it

been doing the dd for a week now on 98 Ron with no driveability issues the only change is a slight hunting on idle in neutral by about 100-200rpm, which im assuming is because of the larger injectors i have uploaded the distance to empty fix and it seems about as accurate as it was with oem - that is reading 40km distance to empty than just going straight to ----- ill fill up with the local caltex e85 next week and see how that goes

Hi guys Finally got around to installing a couple more of my interior trim pieces in my quest to improve the rather plain monotone dash and without having to spend big bucks on a full retrim I've gone the gear surround and ac panel matte cf overlay from RSW, 2011 mfd surround, a custom red/black gearknob and alcantara main gauge lid by blackmans, and the final piece a matte cf wrapped main gauge trim by Revozport (same guys who made my dry carbon boot lid) and they did an amazing job matching the weave to my existing RSW pieces. Today was d-day in removing the main gauge unit and although quite straight forward using the esm, still was nerve racking making sure i didn't damage any trim. Plastic trim remover tools help I have removed and box'd up my rear subwoofer cover to be wrapped in matte cf and will call it a day after i get that back

im not sure tbh there's too many back door sponsored members/vendors on nagtroc peddling certain brands/products to deduce any real feedback Martin confirmed the HKS pumps were a super easy fit, so id just grab them off rhdjapan, 5 day delivery, and you're done

the hks pumps are a true drop in into the oem basket apparently they are also whisper quiet (albeit mine are burried under some dynamat)

yes atm I have 2 maps stored in my ecu, e85 and 98 ron, switchable in real time inside the car without needing to have the Cobb plugged in there is no sensor like a bio fuel commodore. From what i understand Willall's tune has a safety margin in it to allow down to e70, so going from 98 to e85 you would want to get the tank down to under 1/4 - I'll go one step further and get it right down till the fuel light is on and/or the distance to empty reads zero as my local e85 caltex is only 3km away on the flipside, since the 98tune is making less power, I don't believe you have to be so fussy with getting the fuel level right down when switching from e85 back to 98 If I don't end up using e85 that often, ill most likely buy a drum of it and fill up myself to guarantee better quality/consistency than what's in the caltex bowser

elec front wheels would be a very real possibility for the r36

Martin is there anything we can do to correct the distance to empty readout - it's reading artificially high and im guessing this is because of the injectors?

dyno added

used R35 oem steering wheel i bought off Drew i was going to send this robson to have re-trimmed but decided to go another route

Hi guys I road trip'd it up to Adelaide to visit Martin and his techs at Willall Racing After tuning, my car made 422.8 awkw on E85, and 388.0 awkw on 98 Ron Full list of performance mods on my car as follows; Intake - Top Secret Intake 2.75" - Top Secret Turbo Inlet Pipes 2.5" Exhaust - GZY Catless 3" Downpipes with Ceramic Coating by HPC - Cobb Catted Midpipe 3"-3.5" - GZY Titanium 3.5" Exhaust with Garage Active Ti 130mm tips Fueling - Deatschwerks 950CC Injectors - HKS Fuel Pumps - Cobb Tune by Willall Racing Martin's techs installed my injectors, fuel pumps and the turbo inlet pipes which ive been told caused alot of skinned knuckles - Martin it was well worth it for the extra turbo spool noise alone I was nervous changing injectors would cause the car to idle or run differently, but thankfully it feels just like stock. Even the E85 shows absolutely no difference in daily driveability, apart from a split second longer to kick over on cold start The power difference with E85 is alot more noticeable than i predicted. My only complaint is the fuel consumption, though i was expecting it - driving back i was down to just over 1/4 tank @ 280kms, and that's cruise control hwy kms. So i top'd it up with 98 Ron, switched the map over, and got back on the hwy. On my regular daily commute ill be lucky to get 280kms out of a full tank, so i won't be using E85 every fill up. I'd like to shout a huge thanks to Martin for spending the time to walk me through the whole dyno tuning process, was a real buzz to see the car on the dyno and watch the power numbers climb Also a big thanks to his techs for the quality work performed - there were no extra scratches or interior trim scars, my car was returned just as i dropped it off, which earns them a major kudos from me I only have the dyno graphs in hardcopy, hopefully Martin will chime in with his copies

found some pics of the nordring gtr on my hd there must be something beneficial with the upturned middle section, as amuse and a few other tuners use this same design

carbon duckbill boot ai Nissan....... that is the club spec/track version - suspension, front lip and boot spoiler are sourced from nordring, which have been for available sale for a couple years now with insane pricing as nordring parts are proper oem autoclave stuff http://www.nordring.jp/parts.html

doubtful we'll get the track version here we dont even get high spec here anymore nissan aus raised the price and has given us the japan base model for 2011 - read, no more red highlight interior (which are now recaro seats) or black rooflining of the premium spec

Yeh mine comes and goes too, though now it's at it's loudest by far after putting my stock wheels back on I've ordered the extra pad clips on the recommendation of Nissan who say that is their fix for this noise, so I'll see if that helps Im also now getting the clicking noise on both front wheels and natch both front pads have the same movement as in my vid i really think it's the brake pad moving then snapping back into place, i can't fathom this type of sound being made by the hub and wheel If I suddenly stop just after the clicking noise, the pads are locked in tight. Also sometimes I can hear the click that split second after I've come to a complete stop

lol interior trim must seem so foreign to you now

I'd like a set of these too