jiffo

Interesting amount of advance.

Don't know any companies who will do 3rd party property, fire and theft on an import. Straight 3rd party property for sure, not the additional fire/theft. But some ancient VR Commo or such, not a problem.

So a couple of things. Don't lever it. That's the oil pump housing you're levering against, thin alloy and easy to damage especially with big bars like in your photo. Judging by the puller equipment, you're going to need a new gear so just get stuck into it. Drilling and tapping the gear won't cut it as there's a good chance the gear is now cocked over a bit. So drill a series of holes in the root of the gear almost down to the crank. Find a steel stool to support the crank. Jack up the car, slip the stool under the gear, lower the car slightly so the stool is supporting the crank. Cold chisel and split the gear along those drilled holes. Jack up, remove the stool. The gear will then slide off and all will be revealed. I think you'll find the key has sheared and the remains are jambed in there. Buy new gear, woodruff key and probably the rear belt guide plate.

Well I'm confused. Are you talking about the balancer or the crank gear?

Quite a long time back there was a spate of engine failures due to breaking of the idler bolt. I spoke with Gary Cook regarding better quality bolts as the stocker isn't anything out of the box. Gary had bought a selection of Nissan studs and the quality control was appalling. Plenty of Unbrako quality to choose from but they don't fit under the cover, head is a bit too long. Then almost overnight, no more breakages of the stock stud. So were owners over tightening the stud or perhaps the belt, or did Nissan improve their quality control??????

Previous owner did this to my car too and gave me all the Aus. spec belts with the sale. Those compliance belts were a dreadful installation, retractors bolted to a piece of plate which was then bolted to the car.

From the batch list: Mar 1990 BNR32005555 - BNR32006484 Why do some cars still have Jap. seat belts and others are changed to Aus. spec as part of the comply? Something to do with the personal import?

Just because the engine was at TDC doesn't mean it was firing on No 6. Could just as easily been firing on No 1 which could explain air rushing from No6's inlet valves. To eliminate the guesswork, one would rotate the crank another rev and perform the test again. Then you'd have a better idea if it was a valve or a piston problem. No matter in the long run, 20psi compression test is a mega fail.

You meet all sorts when cruising and one old bloke had, in an previous life, built up and sold his radio manufacturing company, so he was pretty clued up with electrics. The charging system on Stan's yacht, (Westward, 48 and 49 Hobart winner) had been modified by him with a rheostat to trick the alternator into thinking the batteries were flat. He'd have the fan belt screaming on that engine, batteries were charged up in no time. But he monitored it carefully and knew what he was doing. Would be easy to boil the batteries or buckle the plates. If your alternator is in good condition with good brushes etc, and the voltage reg is actually working properly, modern systems work very well. Biggest problem with old Skyline alternators is their voltage reg. 2nd most common problem is rooted alarm siren batteries which continually drain the car's battery.

You can't just lower the gearbox rear mount or the line of the universals won't be parallel. Sometimes a CV style joint can cope with misalignment where the same setup using standard universal joints would vibrate terribly. (I presume the joint on the gearbox is a universal) Suggest you chat with a driveline specialist.

And where on the piston were you measuring? Skirt will be different to centre and will be different to top. Were you right at the top?

If you're on a tight budget, why not this one> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-N1-Upgrade-Kit-R32-R33-GTR-RB26-RB26DETT-NISMO/120807133928?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3D8279299983162602107%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140106155344%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D120514498456&rt=nc

As Cal said, it's not too difficult. You can see up the end of the camshaft with a torch, so rotate the crank until the remains of the half moon are in a convenient spot, horizontal, vertical, whatever. Then turn the CAS drive to match and offer it up. With luck it will go straight in, but just leave the 3-setscrews out, connect her up and start the engine. Timing light will tell you if the CAS is central (approx) in the slots and if she's not, you know how much it has to move and in which direction. But can you tell if the broken half moon is an old break or recent? You don't want that bit of metal down inside the cam belt cover.

Very true, you can probably buy a ute from the showroom floor with this sort of power. But to compare apples with apples, disconnect traction control and all the other 21st century electronic wizardry, bring it to the level of a basic car sold in the 90's. See how long she lasts then before it end for ends. I doubt manufacturers would be permitted to sell such high powered cars as road vehicles, without all the gadgetry to keep it in check.

There must be some outstanding drivers out there. But from my experience (this depends how savagely the power comes on), around 250rwkw is it for a GTSt when driving on Qld's roads. After that go for a GTR. So think ahead and buy the GTR, GT4, Evo etc now if you're planning on pushing 300rwkw in the future.

I think your question should have been, "What's it like in the wet?" Short answer, deadly. You can dry-drive OK with careful right foot application, but with lots of Hp in a light arsed RWD car, wet conditions will catch you out for sure.

What is the boost reading? Think you may have mixed up the actuator pipework and you're getting excessive boost.

Did you fit the hoses back to front???? The reg is on the downstream side of the fuel flow, not upstream.

Ben if you look closely you'll see there's a cable running from the TPS to the harness connector plug. Most Rb25's I've come across have a blanking plug in that other TPS socket which I was once told was used in cruise control or autos, can't remember which.

Something I found with my stands, I also didn't give it a thought when buying. A "normal" model has 2-wheels on the back and 1-wheel on a single leg out the front. The "heavy duty" model has 2-wheels on the back and 2-legs/wheels out the front. The heavy duty one is a bit of a nuisance when fitting up the engine as the front legs on the engine crane exactly hit the legs on the stand. The single leg stand, not a problem. So my normal stand does everything, heaviest engine would have been a complete 2JZ with a full Rd28 probably the same weight.

Unsure if the Joe Blow reference was directed at me, couldn't really care but I will offer some insight for those interested. I've experimented with belt tension a fair bit, a lot more I'd hazard than any workshop where the obvious criteria is to get the vehicle serviced and out. I fitted up belts and ran the vehicle at operating temp with NO bottom belt cover. Continually did tension checks as well as monitoring the harmonics these strange 4-pulley systems generate. Can honestly say I've only read of one other owner who has also gone to this much effort and it is a lot of work. But I'm 64, retired and have time on my hands for such investigations. Yes I got Gates belts to run silently, but as I said ages back, they're simply not worth all the hassle. Unless one is doing this work on a daily basis, you will forget the exact tension required. Job then has to be done twice. Yes a brand new idler will groan if belt tension is too tight. Slacken the belt slightly and the noise disappears. This is idler noise, not tensioner which I've never had make a noise as it's on the slack side of the belt. If a tensioner groans, you're so far over tensioned it's ready to snap the idler stud. All these noises are so easy to pin point with the covers removed, no guesswork at all.

Removing the head won't tell you much about ring lands, and you've seriously busted a gut working on an in-situ engine. You did a compression test and from those results, the logical next step is a leak down test. From those results, I think it's a safe bet you'll be pulling the engine, but you need to follow the logical trouble shooting procedures to know where you're heading.

Sensible comment there from Ben and John. Not what you want to hear but it's a 32 GTSt, just drive it. It will tell you if or when it wants to be a GTR.

Stop thrashing the thing and do some investigations.

Don't forget this is just an internet diagnosis, would pay to have a hands on inspection for verification. Valve stem seals can be done in situ, but it's a fair old job. Cams, lash adjusters and so on out which automatically means cam belt etc all off. (so it's the ideal time to do that service) Don't mix up the lash adjusters, they go back exactly where they came from. Then systematically work on each pair of TDC cylinders. With the crank locked, spark plug out, adaptor fitted and pressurise the cylinder. Using your Snap-On tool, remove the valve collets, spring and you'll be looking at the old valve stem seal. Remove old seal and fit new one. (check inlet V's exhaust valve seal, they may differ) Spring etc back on, collets in your Snap-On tool and whack……. that one's done. Only 23-more to do. You'll do 8-each time then rotate the crank to your next TDC, lock it and go again. Very important, TDC and crank locked. I think I could live with a bit of smoke on over-run, don't you?