jiffo

Kit probably has the alloy inlet pipe, alloy 90 degree outlet pipe, silicon joiners and associated BOV fittings etc? Nothing too difficult.

Not a toy, she's the real deal. There's a bloke standing on the step tank with the door open.

Did someone say big Brembos??

niZmo_Man's on the money. We're all spoilt with modern cars. Only need a clutch to get moving, after that it's sound and feel, about knowing the machine. And if the gearing's slow enough (as in that old quad box) you don't even need a clutch to start off, just bang it into 1st-Lo-Lo and you're crawling away. Now we have AMT which is simply rev matching via computer. Lazy days.

You can't drive the car without synchro? Rev match your changes, synchro then does nothing. Like a Mack quad box or any constant mesh non-synchro box.

And the real simple one, orientation of the studs on each exhaust port. 26 has symmetry, the other Rb's are just weird.

I'd bridge the low pressure switch on the dryer first off, might just need gas. There's a few different 32 compressors, some have a high pressure switch incorporated which would be why yours has twin plugs. Pin 46 is aircon signal in. Pin 9 is aircon signal out. I haven't owned a 32 for a while but from memory the thermo fan on them is only coolant temp activated, no ecu signal. The switch at the bottom tank operates the fan relay.

He's welcome to my R31 wagon. Have to bring a shovel though, a big one.

I bet you'll find the valve plate is either limited such that it can't fully close as John suggested OR the plate has a heap of small holes to restrict the gas flow/noise. A bit like the sheet of holey metal we'd slip in the cat flange joint to instantly lose those dB.

I think you should check out the factory wiring first. The relay has 12V+ constant feed once the IGN is switched on and the grounding of pin 18 at the ecu is what controls the pump. The high/low speed side of the system works the negative side of the pump. Full speed has the negative direct to ground. Low speed has the negative to ground via a resistor. If you want the pump to run at full speed all the time you simply ground the negative and job done. If your pump continues to run after the normal 5 second time out, then the wire from Pin18 to the relay could be rubbed through somewhere to ground. OR the fuel pump control section of the ecu may be faulty. OR the relay may have melted its contacts together. All easy stuff to check.

Have you altered the feed from ecu to the relay? Pump should time out after about 5 seconds while IGN is on, not run continuously.

The investigation has taken two years???? Someone's asleep, even ACA did better.

I've had a VL and an R31, they ran different ecu's. That's not to say it won't run, just informing you that good old GM wasn't satisfied with the Rb30 as she came, they had to tinker. Different fan and fan clutch too, another weird thing to change.

From Datalogit, R33 Rb25det, Inj Lead times: 16V 0.320 14V 0.528 12V 0.700 10V 0.880 8V 1.060 6V 1.188

At about 10 to 12 seconds I can hear lifter coming/going, but there's also another deeper knock which to me says she's not too good. Sounds much worse after the free revving.

Baby stuff, 105 to 115ft lbs.

Mint 32's, only one Bob comes to mind. Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR

I asked Bob this same question and apparently they're available from Nissan. Makes the engine bay look like new again.

Cat overheat light on your model is also the check engine light. Would appear to have something to do with the jump start and there's no reason for that to damage ecu or AFM unless the cables got mixed up ???

I presume the OP has it all together by now but for reference, 20 to 30 mm won't be a misaligned clutch spline, the clutch shaft will be through the plates by then. That dimension is usually a burred over spigot bearing from excessive crooked forcing of the box while not quite lined up. Another more dreadful scenario is an incorrectly setup throw out assembly, but this can be checked via the throw out lever slot in the bell housing.

Another example of today's poor driver is at the school speed zones. We have mostly 100 highway speeds and then a small country school will pop up with a 60 or 80 zone. Really feel for truck drivers having to brake hard and then get it all rolling again simply because some clown doesn't know the day of the week. School's out, it's Sunday, read the bloody signs.

Trouble is, those overtaken drivers don't have a clue that they're speeding up. Their lack of spatial awareness is clear by their poor skills when back on single carriageway, can't cope at the posted speeds. Even cruise control doesn't help them, they give it a squirt at the start of an overtaking lane and then at the end their cruise resumes plodding along. You can smell the fuel from the overloaded cat, always an indication someone has the foot hard down. I've noticed these aces also crap themselves at the "end of passing lane 500m" sign and immediately swing out into the right hand lane, shortening the designed overtaking distance considerably. There's enough room after that sign for a couple of "B" doubles to overtake but these inconsiderate drivers simply don't have any skills.

The wrong era to even consider such a discussion, those days have long gone even in the NT. Aged 65.

There's always the chance she's had repair work to the body, but…….. The coupe is a very flimsy body. Jack her up at one front corner and check how the doors open/shut. You may not be able to actually open them. Slam a door and note the scuttle shake, only the ¼ window is holding it together. I don't see a rear tower strut doing a lot, it takes a cage to get any stiffness in these chassis.

Yes she's had it. The square drive is spring loaded for ease of installation, as you'll appreciate when you re-fit the cluster.