Duncan

gives you something to overtake.....you should have seen how many 86s and commodores were in the 6 hours...

It sounds like you aren't super confident, so one way to be sure would be to get a mobile thread repair guy to come out and fix it. Otherwise, if part of the fitting is sitting outside the hole you may be able to get at it with vice grips or similar, or you can use an easy-out (carefully because it's just brass) if you have space to get at it. You may find the broken part is not that hard to back out because it will be a tapered fitting.

So are repco covering all your costs? Or is that yet to be seen?

Unhelpful post removed.

m8x1.25, should be able to find them at any hardware, or re-use one you have lying around

and here it was, 2nd last post

Roy I saw just recently someone posting up a flange adapter....have a search in the last month or 2

It is almost certainly a problem with the water pump install, so take it back and get them to look at it. Other possibilities for loosing all water are a split hose somewhere (which may have been disturbed during the timing belt change, but that's not really their fault). It won't be a head gasket leak, they won't happen externally (ie they will either leak into the cylinder then exhaust, or into the oil). If your mechanic is within a couple of minutes of home just drive it there, the engine will take at least 5 min to get hot without coolant. Keep an eye on the oil temp and stop driving if it gets to normal temp. Otherwise give the mechanic a call and ask them how to get it back to them, since it is likely to be their error.

That track looks like a lot of fun, although very tight for something big like a skyline. Give em hell tomorrow!

I use it between both the pad and the shim, and the shim and the piston. anywhere that could vibrate basically

A long way physically but a short way logically :).....attessa needs power and earth to operate

Firstly, I think you are mad driving 15miles with something clearly broken in the driveline. But hey, it's your car I'd agree with GTSBoy that it is most likely front CV/hub/etc because it was related to turning the steering wheel. It's unlikely but not impossible for it to be a transfer case problem (eg a broken transfer chain which I had once) but no matter what it is, something broken enough to stop the car moving needs to be identified and addressed ASAP. If you can't do it take it to a competent mechanic

(assuming it's a 33 gtst....) I don't have the 33 pin outs, but pages BF-34 to BF-49 in the 32 GTR manual have a pinout for the 8 pin amplifier in the 32, might be a worthwhile starting point. 3 and 4 are IGN 12v, 7 is earth, Up button sets 1 and 8 to earth, down button sets 2 to earth, 5 and 6 to the motor.

you want something like this:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-Tools-Drain-Plug-Key-8-13mm-Sq-1578-/380694570644?hash=item58a32a2694:g:pXcAAOxyD9JSA6YZ 13mm square drive drain plug tool. I bought a whole kit but have never used any o f the other fittings..... The breather is a fitting on the top of the diff on the right side rear. Looks like a little cap but the top part opens a couple of mm under pressure, assuming it's not blocked.

I don't think breathing is that unusual, and particularly with redline shockproof. I run an extended breather in the race car and have no issues, so either go that way or just clean the underside and top up the diff every now and then

you know, I'm not sure, but I've never had it plugged it Actually I thought it might go to the HICAS solenoid from factory but I can see you have that installed and the plug still isn't attached so it's not that either. Tuck it out of the way and never wonder about it again.... BTW wiring diagram with indicative plug shapes are on pages 783-784 of the gtr service manual. it may be related to auto trans cars

well sort of why I was wondering about the timing belt. Pretty much the only way to do that sort of damage is for the harmonic balancer bolt to be loose resulting in it moving around at 7,500 revs which is not exactly good for the front of the crank. Presumably you heard a noise and had the balancer removed. Personally I would go and talk to the mechanic who did the timing below, they *may* help out especially by claiming on their own insurance. If they don't and you want to fight you would need at a minimum receipts for the work and an engineer's report linking the damage to a probably loose crank bolt. And no your car insurance doesn't cover mechanical failures

sorry to hear that, it's always sad to loose an engine, especially your first. Was the timing belt ever changed, and do you know by who? Cheapest way out would be to swap to another second hand motor, will probably cost 2-5k depending what you pay for the motor and how much labour you have to pay for. To repair this motor you would replace the crank, and probably rings, bearings and oil pump while it's all apart. I wouldn't weld up the crank personally, although I know it has been done, these are long engines and if the crank is bent at all you will spin a bearing soon after anyway

why would it be connected?

Ok, a little more progress over the weekend. The fuel breather system is complete: In summary I've joined removed all of the factory breathing and charcoal canister and binned it (saved a little weight, and a little complexity. Capped 2 vacuum lines on the engine that are no longer required. Joined the 2 breathers on top of the tank to this valve as mentioned earlier that opens under vacuum (ie when the pump is pushing fuel out of the tank) and under pressure (ie to vent it when the fuel expands like when being parked in the sun). Valve is an ATL ATLTF-AF-009, and the vent is an ebay plastic vent designed for boat tanks I think (it has a small mesh inside the breather to keep stuff out). They are mounted behind the tank in the driver's side inner guard using a generic 38mm fuel filter clamp for the valve, and a custom ally bracket for the vent. Fits just outside the bodywork but well out of the way with the bar on (yes....the cars has picked up some stone chips over the years....) In total, the rear fuel system now has: -6 e85 safe teflon braided lines (no factory hoses left) 18x various -6 fittings and adaptors 10 hose ends with hose clamps (on the low pressure/return and lift pump sections) e85 sensor fuel cooler lift pump in standard cradle in tank (don't know what it is) surge tank under the rear seat floor 044 main pump fuel pressure sender main filter mounted next to hicas cylinder secondary filter near the subframe between main pump and fuel rail In the engine bay there will be the supply line and return line with a T to the fuel sampler fitting. Also I finished up some minor but pretty much the last parts of the rear; rebuilt shocks, springs back in, and rear brakes with new seals and heat dispersing paint back on. Just need the rear brakes lines and I'm all done back there; we no longer need to use rubber brake hoses so I'm switching to braided in the rear.

It looks like sat nav...http://yahoo.aleado.com/lot?auctionID=e177049542.

don't worry, the 2x ball joint type are OEM style in lots of applications including GTR front. They do wear out and start to bind or clunk though, and I guess are more expensive

Sad but true. But they are oh so soul-less. Just press the right button for the track you are on and let it go

You know me too well Charles, actually I recently gave up on a 4wd Cima after Iron Chef couldn't find a good one in 12 months of auctions. The Cima I drive to work has been awesome and I think would make a good tow car in 4wd. Anyway this so this is what I'm going for instead or something similar anyway.

Pretty much any larger radiator will require the shroud to be trimmed away to clear it, no point replacing the shroud or fan as it will just happen again....