Duncan

definately not. if the crank is straight and the block/externals etc are not cracked you will be fine.

grrrr.....I couldn't find an intact second handy myself, and had to order from Nissan. Part numbers are in the stagea section if you get stuck, I think chucky posted them up

haha that is the good side. the bad side is how hard it is to replace a broken side window BTW......I love the stag in this sort of weather, it is outrageously fun

I am certain there are plenty of spots left...get those entries in! Thanks to Matt's good work with Wakefield the day will definately go ahead.....but basically if members want events they need to support them by entering! If the cost for the day had not changed as discussed at the general meeting I imagine this day would have been in danger of being cancelled

Can I just say....these prices are very cheap.....good work Not in the market at the moment, but anyone who does or might need discs would be amd to pass these up.

+1, just check the crank for straighness. I dropped a motor off an engine stand years ago (wheels got caught in an expension joint in the concrete and it toppled forward. balancer was broken but everything else including the crank came up fine. They are pretty tough really

+1 for PMD. Quiet, extremely well built, cheap and local support. Thread was over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/345837-in-car-and-car-to-pit-comms I changed up from a terraphone. The difference was chalk and crap

I spotted Bodella the other day!

thanks Pete. Now I have somewhere to race too

well...HRT did that....they built a pair of big block 2 door commodores for the old bathurst 12 hours regs (or at least, they bent the regs until the cars fit). I guess they didn't have to work too hard to win tho.

yep that ain't working right....I've linked 2 versions of the full manual with different wire colours. ABS and 4wd light should come on when you hold "down" 3 seconds. http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/attesa32-33.pdf http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/attessa_last.pdf one thing to try if it is misbehaving....hold the up button while starting the car and it will reset the internal memory. Sometimes this clears some wierd errors. wire colours did change over the years and I haven't done one for ages. Send me a pm if you are still stuck I can drop by and give you a hand sorting it out.

yeah it is one of the basic facts of racing that you the car at the front has probably outspent the other competitors. Hell if I drop by targa in my 22yo skyline I have to compete against Tony Quinn who had to choose between bringing his spec-v GTR (do they even exist?), a mosler, or a carbon aston martin. Or when I head down to nsw production cars, its the same car running 0.8bar on 1/2 season old tyres against Bobby Pearson's brand new factory supplied Evo X running 1.6bar and brand new tyres every race, with the best ecu, datalogging and suspension you can buy. Even one make racing is bullshit, people just spend more cheating than in a more open category. In the end, if the car follows the rules, expensive or not, good luck to the person driving it. Anyone that thinks any race cateogry is some sort of level playing field is not paying attention

yeah sounds like it is probably my turn. And good to hear you've had more luck with the modified gtr gearbox....you've broken more gearboxes than I've broken engines.

It's super quick, but no lap record - they can only be set during the race. Amazing effort from street GTR running a 2.15 as well.....

Congrats on your win Stu, even if it was in a dirty taxi. Another national trophy for the pool room

yeah ebay one should be fine (as would a 2c resistor if you had the time to stuff around and find the right one). basically these controllers just reduce the output from the lateral g sensor which causes the computer to think the car is in a straight line, therefore applying more power to the front.

easiest way to check that is a fuel pressure gauge, any decent dyno will have a mechanical one handy. if not, you can remove the fuel rail return at the tank return and run it into a bucket. If you get no fuel at max torque/boost, the pump is not up to scratch

haha good score, there can't be many of them left around! In street use you won't notice too much (unless you drive like me all the time). I'm sure 4 is fine On the track, 4-6 depending on what you prefer, your tyres and wheel alignment and how healthy your attessa system is. 10 if it is wet and you aren't running more than about 20min at a time 0 if you like skids everynow and then.

I found it excellent...particularly becaues Raceworx is my race team I didn't mention that because it has been out of production for years. But if you can find on around, grab it. They do come up second hand. They were priced a little above the ebay ones but were much more controlable. Once they were out of production Mountainrunner's ones became the best option from my point of view because they have the same or more control as the Raceworx ones did. They are just a little more expensive, but still very cheap for the performance you gain.

Disc size itself is unlikely to cause an issue - which caliper are you thinking, how does the piston size relate to the original, and how much further out is the caliper than standard to fit a 322mm disc?

There are few places that make these any more, even grid I think don't now days. The 2 choices I know of are Mountainrunner on these forums from QLD (he makes an excellent unit, lots of options, display, and excellent local support), or a mob on ebay that put $20 of components in a box and charge $200 for it (this also works pretty well, just missing the fine adustment). Either will be miles better than stock in an r32

Radioactive cars will just save you money in dash and interior bulbs as they light themselves up Everything is being checked at the ports before it is allowed on the ship, and the smart buyers are using portable geiger counters to check the cars. But in speaking to a friend who buys a lot over there, they have never had anything even come close to registering a dangerous reading....

no you need to hack the whole harness up. There is 1 input, 6 outputs from those pack. 1 output goes to each injector. But it's not a hge deal

same time you are giving your's it's first long runs Mark, the SAU track day....

no, they are not all the same (well maybe in seat belting ability, but not in usability). Look for 5 or 6 point, never 4 (4 doesn't deal with the biggest issue, submarining) Always get the wider one (3" from memory), the wider they are, the more comfortable on long runs. Make sure they have a rotary buckle, much easier to use day to day and in a rush (eg car on fire) If you can, check the adjusters. Good quality belts/adjusters slide smoothly, cheapies dont and get caught up.