Duncan

now where is that popcorn. it's going to be an interesting year....clearly this series is getting very competitive

on swaybars....actually for anyone new at the track.... most important thing (apart from learning how to drive around the track) is to get your tyre pressures right first. frist thing decide target tyre pressure. If you don't have a specific number try 38 for road tyres, 34 for semi slicks. It's wakie and its winter...so start with the following cold tyre pressures: RF target -6 LF target -8 RR target -6 LR target -4 don't worry too much about the first session, just feel your way around the track. second session give it a warm up lap then 3 hard laps, then come into the pits pretty quick (let the brakes cool a little but don't back off on the tyres). come into pit lane, pull to the side, leave the car running/out of gear/handbrake off. let the tyre pressures in each tyre down to the target pressure. then go out and enjoy the day! Once the tyre pressures are right, if you have adjustable bars set them both to medium. if you get too much understeer back off the rear bar to soft. if you get too much oversteer....maybe try softer front bar, or more front torque if its adjustable, or turn in later, or more progressive throttle out of the corner. If it rolls too much go harder on the front bar. but basically change them from session to session (pretty easy) and see what you like Remember each 3 hole bar has 5 settings because you do not have to adjust them evenly (ie you can have "hard" on one side and "medium" on the other to create "medium/hard")...so there are plenty of settings to confuse you! hope you got the wheels aligned before you went to the track!

I call bullshit. The machine shop is in your garage not the house

same...happy to take it for a spin stu! dave, don't worry there will be plenty of tools there on the day...haven't you met the exec committee and OMG....8 years and Shell enters a track day! You'll have a ball

well can you make sure your next race car has a seat I can bloody fit in!

the noise must be an acquired taste. the sad thing is the amount of time neil put into fixing the chassis/suspension etc. but once you sell your child you can't control what happens to it BTW it was a slow roll....and the front end is tube frame. I'm sure that can all be fixed if necessary

I send em to camtech to be degreed. But i guess you just mean a quick check? There are no nissan logos or part numbers on standard cams. Most aftermakret brands have their name on them

well that sucks...probably still got my blood in the engine bay. he was nowhere near making that corner.

nissan has, and I have one just controlled by a couple of vacuum hoses: can't imagine why you would do it with the range of well matched turbo options available - unless you want to prove it can be done

Excellent work Marek. How did you find the new tyres? Duncan I am sure with a little more development sub 1 min is possible.....and there aren't many tin tops that have gone under 1min there.

I went kkr type on the 30 because I wanted cheap and responsive. the turbo I have is pretty small for a 30, makes 250kw@16 psi at about 6000rpm and chokes after that. like Darrin said it really depends what you want.if you are after the most efficient cutting edge stuff, go the garrett ball bearing option

easy tiger....adriano is one of the few on here who does know what he's talking about! but like you say, different brackets might have better or worse results. certainly plenty of people have run the UAS adapters with good results. And no doubt the gtr brembos are very poor value for a small upgrade in size over standard calipers

better?

got pics of the bits you have?

pm sent

afaik I'm the only one doing door to door racing on here, and we aren't allowed to run slicks (and neither are ipra, saloon cars or any other basic category). I only run slicks for fun when I get them cheap. Irace is the only place I am allowed to race on slicks. But for super sprints on an s13, don't expect slicks to be quicker. Duncan is running good second handies on a 1700kg car. Neil is running good, soft, new slicks on 400kg car. But your average second hand slick is second hand for a reason. And ex-race tyres are almost always Medium/Hard or Hard. Neither of which is necessarily going to make a 1100kg s13 go faster in a 3 lap session.

lol I didn't see the "a/c" anywhere there not related...something else is wrong. air con pully only affects the air con!

Did you mechanic friend tell you the bad news about timing belts and "interference" engines. Basically the motor is stuffed, you will need at a minimum to have the motor removed and stripped and some valves replaced. May need all valves replaced and some pistons too if you are unlucky. for what it's worth, the timing belt was not a cause of any other issues (unless it was on wrong all along), so there must be at least 1 other problem as well. From here, depending on how keen you are, it is either throw in a second hand motor, or rebuild the one you have. The first option is a little cheaper but more risky because you don't know how the motor is.

I saw in passing that DOTARS look after trailer imports as well as cars so maybe check the website. certainly trailers are still a place (one of the last) where you can "build it" yourself, get it engineered then registered. If I remember you trailer is too small for most cars, if so resale will suck. It might be worth looking into enclosing what you already have....I bet the enclosing would be half the price of a new trailer.

lol shell beats me to it!!

aluminium sheet for light, or fibreglass for strong. if it's going to stick out it needs to hold weight as per the pic above.

I honestly think its a bad idea. Superlap showed perfectly clearly that soft semi slicks are literally seconds a lap quicker than medium or hard slicks. So don't move to them expecting better performance. You only get 3 laps and about 5 sessions. Medium or soft semis will last 2 or 3 days, wet or dry and you will go faster. And after all that is the only name of the game in supersprints. I do run slicks sometimes but I always take spare wheels with treaded tyres. And if you only uses treaded tyres when it rains it will be years before they wear out (ie you will throw them away first). Personally, I would grab soft or medium/soft semis for competition. Then a set of second wheels that fit a common second hand slick size for practice and open days.

damn straight....my favourite cool tool for anyone that has not seen one....it is a 64x geared socket driver. So you turn the handle 64 times for a single turn of the socket....but at the same time it puts in 64x the force. You can undo absolutely anything with this.....just think a bolt or nut done up to 640nm (like an overtightened centrelock wheel nut) only takes 10nm and some time to undo

yeah the 30 pulls my lolvo round ok

wow didn't this catch on overnight! I've got no idea how that works but I am almost certain I need it! Sooo many hose clamps in hard or impossible places on a skyline. Got some pics or vids of someone using it? I have another one everyone needs..... What: 14mm stubby ratchet spanner For: Top and bottom starter motor bolt. Just enough space to turn them easily. And if the top bolt is too tight for a stubby ratchet to undo loop a piece of rope around the end and pull down - gives you about a meter of leverage. From: Pretty much any brand Cost: about $100 for a set depending on brand, you really only need 1 for about $10-15