Duncan

sorry for the delay, all posts in the DIY section are moderated to keep them on topic. Your post has been approved now http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...97#entry5322897

Tom, I'd guess your bad brake pedal is just more air in the lines somewhere....try more bleeding. I've never had to bleed the abs even when the lines are totally empty....not saying it can't happen just that it never has for me. Tim, I'm using the A1RM on the rear, they work fine, excellent price but are very dusty. I think I should have chosen HP-X because I don't think I am stressing them enough to need the A1RM

just get someone to push the brakes hard while you watch the master cylinder move...it's pretty bad! then consider that the pistons in the brakes themselves move about 3-5mm for all of the distance the pedal travels. If the master cylinder is moving 3-5mm as well that means there is as much flex as there is actual braking in your pedal movement!

sorry mate didn't see your post....the stuff was here within 7 days of the auction finishing. better than many local ebayers can manage. yes it was pricey but it was literally they only one I have seen for sale anywhere

Thanks everybody for your response to this day. We are now full, so please do not send any further payments. Any payments we receive after today will be refunded. We are happy to run a waiting list for spots, so if you still want to coming along please post up your interest for the waiting list. It is great to be able to fill this event, and it means we can afford to keep running them - so we will organise another one (or maybe 2!) for next year.

yeah some things are very free and some are very restricted. they key restrictions for a 32 gtr are standard turbos, standard cams, standard afms. The turbos will limit you to 300-330kw at about 24psi. Also standard suspension arms everywhere (except hicas that you can remove). I have and would always have a kill switch....plenty of opportunities to und upsidedown in a tree. As for tyres, best you can get. generally medium compound dunlop dz03.

I've never seen a "personal import plate" either, is that an official compliance plate in the engine bay? That's the deal.....almost certainly the people who inspected it are not familiar with the rules. He needs to try elsewhere, maybe by phone first (I have a 15yo import with no compliance plate etc). or maybe start with nsw rta and get some paperwork he can show the blus slip guys

not 32, 33 or 34 gtr not 33 or 34 gtst/gtt

Import rules are national not state based, and I'm pretty sure WA has not seceeded yet. If it does not have a compliance plate it came in under: 1. personal import 2. 15yo import (before it was shut down) 3. race rally import. if you do not know which scheme it came under, DOTARS who approve all imports will. Also WA's car rego department must know as well. 1 and 2 are eligible for full rego, 3 is not.

ahh the modified tool thread! we have a very similar looking tool for rear o2 sensor on a gtr..just cut across the end to make it an open spanner as well

yeah that's what i mean, it looked way too easy. but it is amazing how easily these and some other modern cars smash the barriers that used to define a "super quick" dedicated drag car. ANDRAs rules re license cage and chute look very dated these days

not the same...cheap bearings and they don't pivot (although it looks like it, that is just the adjuster).

the only thing to add....is go easy on the bashing if that is how you take them out...it is horribly bad for the bearings. Like Adam said one of those ball joint seperators (check out the cool tool thread) would be a safer way to do it.

have you been converted to drag racing now? It looked exciting

sounds good...hope to hear the results because the standard internals for 32 n1 turbs are horribly expensive. I will give these a go next time

not at all...there is more to life these days than auto or manual. cvt system was very interesting once you got used to the car accelerating without the revs increasing

ahh and I go thru 2 sets of upper arms a year too....I am not allowed to change from standard style to pivoting.

the UAS ones may look expensive, but they are a step above in quality compared to pretty much any other option. these are the upper arms out of my race car, demonstrating why the pivoting arms are important

+1

yes the list is not complete.....you will need stickers! don't worry they are entry level type events. make sure the tyres have good tread if it includes wet events, and don't run brake pads that need warmth to work. Almost every event is over in 60 seconds and nothing has time to get hot

not only auto, the one i drove was cvt

lol weber revisits his mercedes days. what a hack

fark. my driveway in the cold is just not setting the bar any more

hahha not here mate....I only know of 2 in the country. and the other one has been off the road for a year

agreed. I would be surprised if it was anything other than a small metric hex key. do you have the wrong size or just too short