Duncan

i know you should never lend your wife or your tools...but you can use if you need ben

i agree it looks like its been spraying on the driveshaft, but it can still be engine oil from the filter. that is most likely, but there is also a diff oil seal at the end of the driveshaft that might be leaking.

nice....who wouldn't want a place to themselves to thrash all day! where was it?

what is it, power steer fluid, diff oil or engine oil most likely just oil leak from an oil filter change, almost impossible not to spill oil on top of the diff. step 1 as always is degrease it all and see if the leak returns

that's effectively what I'm doing, just don't leave the car in IGN unless you are about to start it as the fuel pump will always be on.

ouch...hopefully not too bad. I would suspect rear wheel alignment first, was it checked before and if so what was the toe? Or even better what was the toe after the event? The number of these cars being hustled safely around tracks says there is no basic issue across the model, so need to look for something bent or loose I think.

sorry, to clarify that....the ECU just cuts power after 5 seconds of priming or if the engine stops. It is a good feature but a switch is enough.

yeah true I guess, but it's a race car. I just earthed the relay and don't leave the car on IGN too often. Alternatively considering yours is ground up rewire, just earth the fuel pump relay through a dash switch so you can control pumps on or off.

sorry I must mean something different. the unit came with a plug and about 7 wires. I don't know which wires I need to tap on the ECU, but the list above clarifies all except 1 - not sure what exactly I need to tap for the fuel?

jeebus! no that's not the one I meant but it must be an interesting drive too

I just bought some bits thru import monster for the first time, very quick turn around.

an update..... we (well maybe I) decided it could live with some more turbo lag with the SC to look after things down low. So it is at Hills Motorsport getting a GTR T28 turbo and new manifold put on. At the same time it became clear that it has a fair bit of blow by already, so we have order a set of forged bottom end bits from some wierd little japanese car guy in hokaido that used to race them. and a catch can to keep it sort of under control in the meantime.

the ksport 330mm kit are what I have on the front of mine, they are excellent.

can't see how you can get 0 compression without a valve problem. and if there was something wrong with the "cambelt/camshaft" it would affect every cylinder the same way. unlikely to be rings, even if installed incorrectly eg overlapped you would get a little compression. assuming its a 33 gtst maybe a stuck hydraulic lifter? I don't know much about the hydraulic lifter setup.

good to hear....did you take it around the block?

kind of.....but the 33/34 gtr brembos are really bad price/performance option. Generally they go for 1500 second hand with dodgy discs and pads. The 32 gtr/ 33 gtst ones re the ones to go for....good enough for most setups and $1k cheaper than the 33 gtr ones. If you really want/need to spend $2k on brakes buy the ksport/d2/g4/etc 8 piston 330mm brakes, they are great for the price

I bolt my ignitor where the coil pack cover bolts go. I'm sure loose or cable tied is sufficient but I prefer to keep it up in cooler air. Also don't forget to earth the coil pack loom.

did you get to the bottom of the problem?

A++ would read again. this thread delivers even 3 years later. w0rped did you ever get an answer about the double/white wire? maybe for gtr afms? And is there are clearer requirement for orange? any injector pulse or something else? my ecu is not on the instructions so I'm a bit stuck.

well, the simple answer is the synchros are there to look after the gap in revs between gears. eg if you shift from 1st to 2nd at about 40klm/h you will have to go from 5000rpm to 2500rpm. The quicker you move the gear shift and release the clutch, the less time the engine has to get from 5000 to 2500. So the best way to look after your gear box is: 1/ back off the throttle 2/ move the shifter from 1st to neutral 3/ let the revs drop from 5000 to 2500 (depends on gears and road speed of course, this is just an example) 4/ move the shifter from neutral to 2nd. If you do exactly that you will have basically no wear on the synchros...but you will have slow gear changes which is why all gearboxes have synchros these days. If you get the steps above right you also will not have to use the clutch but you may as well incase you miscalculate. Downchange is the opposite 1/ back off the throttle 2/ move the shifter from 2nd to neutral 3/ blip the throttle to 5000rpm (depends on gears and road speed of course, this is just an example) 4/ move the shifter from neutral to 1st. Once again, if you get it spot on the shifter will go straight in, and you won't need to use the clutch. In practice you should be able to do everything above with some practice, just use the clutch in case you get it wrong. Driving like this minimises the wear on the synchros, but once they are stuffed nothing apart from removing the box and replacing them really fixes it.

I think the best way is regular 4wd underpinnings, hilux seems the choice (there is a v8/hilux 4wd 260z running around hillclimbs). main problem with the gtr setup is that the driveshaft and front diff are in the sump....which means that setup has to fit on the bottom of the chosen motor, and the motor's location is fixed between the front wheels (can't really move forward or back). its an interesting idea, but the gtr setup just does not lend itself to the change

more good coverage for proper race cars...well done

also guessing....but I reckon that is all right except the bold bit. Unless it replaces the factory attessa controller it can only "bend" the input signals like everything else, which means it is probably more like "0 to 50 indicating how much more front drive you are getting than normal" as opposed to a fixed % I saw claims on the interweb that it creates fixed front torque, but that is not possible with the factory attessa computer.

indeed...it just makes it harder to have a car that can compete in multiple disciplines, which in turn discourages competitors. No doubt many of the rules are a very outdated attempt to keep very old cars competitive. But ultimately, if one class (SV) is half your entry list then something needs to be done. When I run CAMS there are going to be 3 classes: * Production Cars (run under current rules, they are fine for what they are). Also Tarmac Rally cars. Standard turbos, standard boost, standard size wheels, standard injectors/fuel pumps, afms. Currently an evo gift but they are the best production cars around right now. Measured and sealed motor required for racing. Pump Fuel only * Improved Production Cars (same as current rules but no intake restrictor. Their competitor numbers would go through the roof over night. Yes the 6 rx7s would have to retire but it is ludicrous that they are the only car that can win under current rules). Main limit on performance here is standard size wheels. Pump fuel or e85 only * Sports Sedans (current rules except 4wd do not have the ridiculous "can't modify the floorpan" rules. weight limits per capacity class is enough). Pump fuel, e85, race fuel, methanol, whatever...anything goes Those rules would be perfect for supersprints/superlap, hillclimb and racing....break down by class and capacity if necessary....one set of rules to bind them all! BTW my rules would certainly allow active aero in sports sedans. As per current, no changes to prod cars and minimal, fixed changes to aero in IPRA.

the cable tie holder rocks! rob, those warren and brown torque wrenches are great, I've had one for years. Anyone who is looking for a decent torque wench should look at those instead of the dodgy spring loaded ones. not able to be used by Neil though because one side of the car has left hand thread, and the W&B style can only measure torque in 1 direction chuckie...the spark plug gapper looks good too, I have seen similar before as a small disc with different sized gaps around the edge. How do they go for wear over time?