Duncan

btw...what's with the new avatar? planned or actual?

lol that's just me. actually....even I've never killed a motor with less than 50klm on it...you get a surprising distance with no oil to the bearings

that's easy...it will go crank, crank, cough, broooooooooooooooom

just in case jim was lurking again

not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen has anyone had an actual failure?

farkin. well spotted. did you get to the bottom of the aac noise? I never got a chance to check mine

or....just top it up with water! coolant is only a water.glycol mix anyway

24mm (from memory), they are tiny. even your average china "racing" one will cool a fair bit better

you really only going to enter 1 event per year (superlap)? if so....stick with standard gtr calipers, braided lines and 2 piece rotors with ally hats. or even better the ksport/d2/g4 setup. This would be adequate for 2-3 quick laps at a time (ie more than soft tyres can take) and nice and light to reduce unspring mass . G4s are a bit lighter than standard. Of course if you want more all round brakes, ksport 355mm for medium to high power or ap/alcon/brembo for high power over 355ishmm rotors. Wheel diameter and power are factors. What chassis btw, your profile says VL commodore...not familiar with their suspension (strut front, solid axle rear?)

I run about 38 normally...on most road tyres it wil improve handling at the cost of comfort. I don't agree that it is enough pressure to wear out the inside of a tyre, mine wears pretty evenly. I have run tyres up to 45psi but that is specific tyres on the race track. Too high for general road use to me. Also check the sidewalls, the tyres will hav a maximum allowable pressure which is generally 45....

yeah, and I'm not saying its perfect either...just that I've got one pump that hasn't had trouble...its no guarantee it won't fail tomorrow....or never

AFAIK you can just replace the 1 synchro that is crunching....but if one is gone the rest almost certainly are going or gone too. And there are bearings and seals that should be replaced too. BTW 1300 sounds cheap to replace all the synchros and bearings. Or is that the cost to get another second handbox? If so I'd probably give it a miss, almost every box will have these issues to some extent by now. You can just do what most people do - run the Redline Lightweight shockproof gear oil and slow down your gear changes a little....it won't fix anything but it might hide the problem for a few years.

not your fault Kaliea....and I didn't know either until I got this one. Both are the same on the front. I'll post pics tonight, but the difference in colour of the socket is pretty simple....this one is black, I need the white one

we've already seen more than enough of your arse end! anyway...brad's too busy welding up a 25l sump for me

Interesting. I've had a walbro in mine for 3 years with the standard wiring and its working fine.

actually....it just unsold! turns out there are 2 different climate control units, one with whit plugs on the back and one with black plugs. this has black plugs and 1 need a whitey! So this is for sale again....same price

hmm indeed. and consider where your brake fluid might be going. If your front and rear pads are not low you probably have a dangerous leak somewhere.

before you drill it off! a couple of other options first, take the next smaller size socket in an impact socket, imperial if necessary, bash in on with a hammer....hard.....if it catches enough you will be able to undo it. or...get a workshop to weld a nut on the end of the wheel nut and see if you can undo it with that. drilling off will be a mess and probably damage the wheel as well as the stud. BTW...always do up your wheel nuts carefully! 110nm with a torque wrench is best. Always put a wheel nut on a few turns befire using a rattle gun. Most tyre shops will not do either of these things and a stuffed wheel stud can be the result. also, pm me your vin#. I can check the wheel stud number it may match something local

anyway....its on the block end of the bottom hose, not the top one

I'm running the r34 handbrake without problems except I had to space it up about 10mm when I bolted it on so it cleared the centre console. I am 99% sure there is an adjuster under the car where the single cable splits to got to the 2 wheels.....you might need to back that off

1. Timing belt change does not absolutely need anything else done. It is however a very good idea to change the timing belt idler, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt idler stud. The belt, tensioner and idler are generally bought together as a kit. The idler and tensioner can seize with age and if they do goodbye engine. When the timing belt is off it is about 20sec extra to replace them 2. Water pump might live to 300,000klm, might also fail tomorrow. Many people have very varied life for the pump, I guess it depends on belt tension, number of starts and how the car is driven, and the coolant you use. 3. Water pump is about 10 bolts and some silicone to replace when the timing belt is off. This is why many people choose to do it at 100,000klm. If not figure 4 hours labour at a workshop if it fails (ie as big as the 100,000klm service). They are very cheap if you go holden rb30 aftermarket ones. 4. Power steering fluid is generally expected to be in there for life unless something is wrong. If you do want to change it, undo the resoviour lid an carefully undo one of the hard lines that go into the steering rack. Wait 10 min for the fluid to drain then retighten the line. Fill the resoviour, start the motor and turn the wheels from full lock to full lock a few times. Top up resoviour. Any auto transmission fluid will do.

guaranteed you will get air in the brake lines if you have changed them. You are going to need to bleed it a lot before it is good.....get 2x 500ml bottles. And please be careful with brakes if you are not 100% sure you know what you are doing. Maybe get someone to give you a hand who has done it before

Eric, that's the place we stay when we are in town (have stayed pretty much everywhere in goulbourn over the years). Basic but cheap. Best Western is overpriced for me. I'd normally stay at the track or at the pelican sheep station, about $50 per bed if a couple of people get together.

actually it's really contentious, and the way the rules read you may have less trouble without the cage. Basically if a cage is not CAMS compliant, you are allowed to use it "at the discretion of the scruitineer". Personally, if I was scruitineering and you turned up with a non-compliant cage, I would be tempted to reject it - simply what happens if I deem it to be OK and it fails in an accident and you die....will I be held responsible for using my discretion? wierd rule but there you go!

I heard russ has an r35 somewhere too