Duncan

lol I didn't see the "a/c" anywhere there not related...something else is wrong. air con pully only affects the air con!

Did you mechanic friend tell you the bad news about timing belts and "interference" engines. Basically the motor is stuffed, you will need at a minimum to have the motor removed and stripped and some valves replaced. May need all valves replaced and some pistons too if you are unlucky. for what it's worth, the timing belt was not a cause of any other issues (unless it was on wrong all along), so there must be at least 1 other problem as well. From here, depending on how keen you are, it is either throw in a second hand motor, or rebuild the one you have. The first option is a little cheaper but more risky because you don't know how the motor is.

I saw in passing that DOTARS look after trailer imports as well as cars so maybe check the website. certainly trailers are still a place (one of the last) where you can "build it" yourself, get it engineered then registered. If I remember you trailer is too small for most cars, if so resale will suck. It might be worth looking into enclosing what you already have....I bet the enclosing would be half the price of a new trailer.

lol shell beats me to it!!

aluminium sheet for light, or fibreglass for strong. if it's going to stick out it needs to hold weight as per the pic above.

I honestly think its a bad idea. Superlap showed perfectly clearly that soft semi slicks are literally seconds a lap quicker than medium or hard slicks. So don't move to them expecting better performance. You only get 3 laps and about 5 sessions. Medium or soft semis will last 2 or 3 days, wet or dry and you will go faster. And after all that is the only name of the game in supersprints. I do run slicks sometimes but I always take spare wheels with treaded tyres. And if you only uses treaded tyres when it rains it will be years before they wear out (ie you will throw them away first). Personally, I would grab soft or medium/soft semis for competition. Then a set of second wheels that fit a common second hand slick size for practice and open days.

damn straight....my favourite cool tool for anyone that has not seen one....it is a 64x geared socket driver. So you turn the handle 64 times for a single turn of the socket....but at the same time it puts in 64x the force. You can undo absolutely anything with this.....just think a bolt or nut done up to 640nm (like an overtightened centrelock wheel nut) only takes 10nm and some time to undo

yeah the 30 pulls my lolvo round ok

wow didn't this catch on overnight! I've got no idea how that works but I am almost certain I need it! Sooo many hose clamps in hard or impossible places on a skyline. Got some pics or vids of someone using it? I have another one everyone needs..... What: 14mm stubby ratchet spanner For: Top and bottom starter motor bolt. Just enough space to turn them easily. And if the top bolt is too tight for a stubby ratchet to undo loop a piece of rope around the end and pull down - gives you about a meter of leverage. From: Pretty much any brand Cost: about $100 for a set depending on brand, you really only need 1 for about $10-15

No....not that kind of tool..... The "how do I get this old rubber hose off" thread reminded me about this idea.....so here it is, the cool tool thread. What are the odd/unusual/invaluable tools you use! Here is the opening item.... What: Hose Pliers For: Saving your knuckles! Gets most hoses off, and after 20 years they can be damn hard to budge! Vacuum hoses, coolant hoses, breather hoses you name it. From: Got mine from the tool guy that came to the show n shine....probably need to find a specialist tools shop Cost: About $30

Sorry mate I overlooked your payment - received it fine as well on 11 June

hose pliers! and they have saved my knuckles more damage than any other tool I own i really need to start that...."cool tools for skylines thread"....there's more where they came from!

these....are one of the essential tools for a skyline owner! if not....you need to break the seal between the hose and the metal. carefully work the smallest bladed screwdriver you have between the hose and the pipe (don't stab the rubber, go under it). if you can work the screwdriver right around the pipe the hose will come straight off.

sweet! Wayne Prenter is coming to Wakie

yes, but Dave/NYTSKY's one was the engine builder's error in not doing it up correctly, looks like the same problem here. However I've also seen and heard of correctly tensioned ones failing. I always replace both stud and bolt on the race car motors

interesting! particularly that the bolt was partially unwound. (and still didn't snap at the block!) this is far from the first timing belt tensioner bolt that has snapped, and many people on here would recommend replacing it (and the idler stud) every time the timing belt is done. From memory, Elite Dan did some interesting testing on some bolts supplied by nissan after one snapped.

but....the alternator will stop charging because the engine will stop because the ECU/fuel pump/injectors will loose their power? The method I first said above is effectively the same, 32 GTR has 3 wires to the battery (alternator - no cut, starter - no cut, everything else - kill switch)

now you've got me confuzzled damo. In your pic only the starter motor is turned off then the switch is off? Or have you left the rest of the car's wiring off the pic? BTW ditch the mac get a PC. macs are rubbish if they don't have mspaint

lol any dents?

no the oil pump requires the sump to come off which is a whole different game - also it should last as long as the motor. but the timing belt has to come off to change the water pump so you may as well do it. Also the bearings, and the stud and bolt that hold them in. It's also a good opportunity to put adjustable cam gears on if you have been considering them

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!). do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)? some other problem here

GTR Brembo discs are 324x32...would almost certainly be OK. I run porsche 4 piston calipers with standard gtr discs on my race car.

oh dear last poo-joe gone!

I heard Sarah and Russ won! Congrats guys even if you were in a filthy cheater emo

holy shit michelin tyre tent, does want!