Duncan

umm pics aren't great. but I can't see how they would fit skyline/stagea 32/33/34 series

well....you are checking voltage with the motor running right? 12vish is right for battery alone, alternator should show 13.5+ the wire you ran from the battery to the relay has 13.x at the relay end when the motor is running? pins on the relay should be: 30 - wire to the battery (fuse near the battery) 85 - earth 86 - original fuel pump positive (signal) 87 - output to the fuel pump. you should get the same voltage at pin 87 as the battery when the ignition is on.

that greddy infometer proves rice can be good. wish it had av out

yeah that figures. you can't run z32 or nismo AFMs without changing the computer for about $2k extra. all you need is a pair of second hand air flow meters, or even better swap with some known good ones to make sure they are actually the problem before you spend any more. I think you need to go elsewhere, there are plenty of "reputable" workshops around.

its not a %, but it's not actually measuring torque either. best to think of it as an indication of how much torque it would be trying to send to the front in an umodified factory setup.

charles....definately gtr front....more rubber is always handy up front and it gives you the option of running same size tyres all round. stu...what is a "rocker"??

sucks to be anna. wonder what wayne is up to tonight?

that sucks....remember you will never get anything like what you put into it

O M G Chuckie. you have a pair of genuine n1 castor rod brake air deflectors. only the second set i've ever seen, i had to buy mine brand new from nissan, got the last 2 they had in the warehouse

same same!

also, there should be a plate/sticker on your centre console or drivers door jamb with the standard wheel size which the complier is meant to add when it is imported.

wow $4000 for a service. hope it included an engine rebuild! $800 for a tune for rough acceleration (I take it you have a standard computer)? you really need to find a different workshop, or get more detail about what they are doing.

Full Name: Mark Waugh Car Type: Hyundai WRX Newb or not: newb Most recent lap time if not newb (can be another track if necessary but make sure you mention which one): # of Drivers: 1 # of Passengers & Name:

lol at least 90% of the cars entered would only qualify for sports sedans.....a couple wouldn't even meet those rules. no point worrying about rules being too restrictive at this event!

Hi Stacey, "Red R Racing" is a business that is not a registered trader on SAU. As a result your for sale thread was removed. If you want to trade on here as Red R Racing please contact the trader admins Blitz or R31Nismoid.

no lols at all....hope everything turns out OK

Shouldn't leak but it is faily common. There is a flared fitting that goes into the back of the xfer case from the attessa pump....first thing would be to back it off a turn and then tighten it again, making sure it seats smoothly. I would use transmax in the transmission, transfer case, attessa pump and power steering, good stuff and keeps it simple. expensive though. I can't help with the auto trans but for the rest: power steering - disconnect the lowest line at the steering rack and let it drain. do it back up, fill up the PS resoviour. Start the car and turn the wheel from full lock to full lock a few times, it bleeds itself. transfer case - undo the filler plug, it is half way up on the driver's side. Always make sure you can open the filler first (although if its a manual you can fill via the gear shifter if you measure the amount). Undo the drain on the bottom, let the fluid drain out. Do up the drain and fill via the filler until a little fluid trickles out, then replace filler plug attessa - remove the line at the back of the gearbox and let it drain. a little lithium grease or similar on the threaded fitting then smoothly and carefully do it up again. Make sure it seats firmly. fill the resoviour in the boot to over max. rear of the car up on stands, out of gear, start the engine. crack the bleeder at the gearbox just above where the line goes in - it should pump fluid out smoothly. when no bubbles close the bleeder. Sometimes this does not work/is not enough, if not there is a second bleeder up near the diff you may need to bleed the same way.

Interesting information from DFT came through today - turns out NSW Department of Water, Heritage and the Arts enforce fuel regulations. Random. http://www.environment.gov.au/atmosphere/f...mers/index.html They will want the fuel sample for testing. Even so, only the CTTT can make a binding order on the seller so I guess that is where I will end up.

hey a soccer mum just called, she wants here double parking car back

no personal experience with the new caliper, but I would love to hear from anyone that is using them hard.

lol grog + antibiotics? maybe you are imagining the buzzing

yeah sorry I should clarify - the ksport caliper is slightly different because it has different sized leading and trailing pistons, same total piston area. But the pads, mounting brackets, rotors, hats and brake lines are all the same. So just consider them "interchangeable"

I run mine pretty high (360mm front, 350mm rear) because of the loads when towing. Plus the handling is excellent for such a big car like this anyway. I have bilsteins, whiteline springs and sway bars from sydneykid Could no doubt run 10mm lower without issue....but like any skyline chasis if you go too low you are going to stuff roll centres, get too much camber, get bad bump steer, and bad angles on cvs and driveshaft.

ksport are the same as g4 are the same as d2. the ksport just aren't quite such a lurid colour I'm still running these, on the original (ex-targa) discs from 4 years ago, still going great.

sorry Hugh, no idea.....when it's next not pissing down on me I will try on my car. Either way....is it running OK now?