Duncan

nah won't fit in mine, it is a s2 rear console matched to a s1 dash and interior. Big Fella, posting is a PITA....but I guess I would rather post it than chuck it! $15 to cover postage, it's yours.

sorry no idea which exact model I got....they are bottom mount for the seat, about as low as possible, I don't think custom ones would be any lower.

Thanks Mark....excellent price too.

thanks sean and yeah that's what I figured....I need it to correct the PFC and more importantly the super-rice nismo dash/epson EJ1. I bought and have built the kit, will try and fit it this week.

same here.....probably 10% faster wear on the inner

the secret ones? very happy with them so far (and the price), but need to run them for a few more days to see how they wear, and if they drop off after a few heat cycles.

excellent choice

how'd you go with this, mine are borken and need to be removed too

I got mine from these guys - and the amount of information on their website, plus the speed of response for any issues is awesome. A++ would buy again

That's a shame, but their loss. Why not post up the article and pics as a thread?

lol, is your sideways camera footage still around? looks like great fun troy....enjoy it! and remember if you don't fall off you have't found the car's limit not a chance that will get off the ground, there are not enough cars for a dedicated series. If carrera cup can't survive in aus, radical cup is a pipe dream of an importer that is loosing money. yeah the wests are fast and getting faster. the racing car catetgory in NSW is a great mix atm.

while the cars were amazing in the day...things have come a long way in 20 years. the group a cars had custom hubs and control arms for a start....very little was standard. I have seen the alignment specs and they were not far from what most people would already choose. eg not a heap of camber or toe out. remember they were pretty heavy and tyres were not huge.

yes, there are no synchros on reverse (and I think it is straight cut too?) It can be tricky to get first time sometimes, just let the clutch out in neutral then clutch back in and try again

what a great thing to be involved in....would love to see anything you are allowed to share about the experience

fuel rail is just a tube with some fittings....they *should* be cheap I've got china all over my rb30 stagea, very happy with it. turbo has failed twice but everything else has been fine

yay for rb30s in stageas (that's twice I've got to say that tonight)

sorry, advertising by unpaid traders is not allowed on SAU. please either register to be a trader, or set up a "group buy" in the correct section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Group-Buys-f61.html

looks like the result of a nasty crash at the traffic lights

"do it". I've got an rb30 stagea and it's brilliant to drive BTW unless you are upgrading AFM and injectors, 250awkw is all you'll get (well that's where mine ran out). but that is plenty to get a volvo moving around the suburbs

I'm tall, Kel's short. Bride low rails for me, just bolt in, easy/hassle free. originally had multiple bolt holes but you just can't change it quickly, let alone during a pit stop

Personally I got my coating done by a bloke called Chris from Craved Coatings in penrith. He has done for me: wheels (white powdercoat) 2 sets gtr engine covers and plenum (yellow/purple) stagea coil pack cover (wrinkle black) turbo zorst housings (ceramic thermal coating) sump, radiator, oil cooler, intercooler (radiating thermal paint) and probably a few other things over the years and he is outrageously cheap. good prices too

they all (32-34) have the same mounting locations, you just need to match the caliper to the right disk, or get an adapter if you want to mismatch caliper/disc. 32 gtr and 33 gtst are interchangeable (32 gtr is greenish with fins and nissan, 33 gtst is bluer with sumitomo)

well a bit late.... but you don't have to remove the driveshaft/hub to replace the wheel studs. put a wheel nut back on the one you have to replace and tap the stud out with a hammer (ok you may need to bash, not tap...but be as gentle as you can for the wheel bearing's sake). the rears from memory have a place cut out on the hub to let the stud thru so you may need to rotate the hub.

absolutely right, water is about the best thing in the universe for taking energy and getting hot slowly. only 2 problems - stopping rust (corrosion inhibitor) and it freezes at 0..... When I was having cooling problems I ran straight distilled water + redline water wetter, it ran literally 10-15o cooler than coolant.

I am not sure about the sway bar, I've never had one move around. But you are dead right about the caster.....shorter radius rod = more caster.