Duncan

Can you try now?

damn, bad outcome. At least it is simple though.

It's RWD right? no 4wd sump adapter? I can only guess it's not caused by blowby if compression is good and there is plenty of breathing. Possibly only happens when the motor is running because when it stops the oil drains back to the sump below the leak? Pull the sump off and make sure both surfaces are flat, and well sealed with gasket goop.

how have you set up the cam cover breathers?

not normal, it's a skyline not a commodore! Best idea is to get it on a hoist and checked out. Most likely wear points are control arm bushes (put a big pry bar under each and see if there is any movement), or tailshaft centre bearing. Other possible problems are cv joints in the driveshaft, incorrectly adjusted diff (backlash) or gearbox, but they are les liekely. BTW I would guess your 70,000klm GTST has a 1 missing from the odometer. Who has a cool car like that for at least 13 years and only does 70,000?

Yes, you are OK to just block off that vacuum hose. You can remove the vacuum resoviour you circled as well, no longer required. The sensor in the heater lines must be related to the heater controls- the engine coolant sensor is at the front of the inlet manifold. For a race car you can disconnect that as well. BTW, you should start a build thread in the build section - there are lots of people interested and experienced in race car builds here

here was my weekend, NSW State Champs at Wakefield

no, the seem to be dead again

clean, straight anti squel shims. maybe a touch of anti squeal stuff (copper, goop, whatever) clean calipers, pins, springs, clips. dust allows movement that causes squeal straight, unwarped discs properly bedded pads. I've used probably 10 different types of pads including very aggressive race only pads, and none of them squeal when installed properly except super aggresive endurance racing pads.

lol keep digging. I need an unbroken centre console surround too after my car's last visit to a professional shop

hahah too late its in a moving box already. also got your ugly mug in some other mag from that dutton years ago. btw fit the r35 front bar to the shitbox rally car instead of the truck bull bar

OMG jenna is as famous as you now. I still have that ralph magazine article from 2002.

ahh that's kind of obvious i guess.....I'll grab a hammer and see if I can 'adjust' them. I did have the passenger seat out. but the driver's one works correctly....no seatbelt in = solid light on. don't think passenger side has a warning?

so...a bit of a strange one....today after removing the busted (again) head unit the seatbelt light was flashing on the dash (it stays solid when drivers seatbelt is undone). anyone have any idea what a flashing seatbelt light is telling me? other that the car missing at times, the only thing I can see wrong on the PFC is the alternator is putting out 15v not 14, might be the problem. nismo dash in a s1 C34 if that makes any difference

lol....look ever closelier....it will take phillips OR flat

yeah there is a wide variety in the currently available mixes. If you have tuned it aggresively I would stick to the same stuff it was tuned for. But for my use a less aggressive tune and $1/l is more important that a little more power at $2.5+/l. It is still cheap compared to most race fuels though

yeah I think that problem is sorted now caltex are rolling out to 50+ locations per state. I still can't run it because I have to run standard injectors, but at least most people can now

yep I'll give it a run when the chance comes up

lol harsh. will be in if we do it in a week or 3, will be interesting to see what china turb0 and rb30 can do

not me (in nz:( )...need more warning.

OK enough of that. Any more carry on will receive a warning. Mark, sorry to see what happened, would have been great to see 2 leading skylines runs together. But as they say, "that's racing"..... I guess new shell will be easier than fixing since it is all triple skin back there, and shells are cheap.

no need to be wrong as well as rude. Bobby's on the money. Nismo GTRs ran a standard motor (05U) and certainly not a "nismo" motor. In fact other than the big turbos and being in "limited edition" gunmetal grey they were pretty much standard. But I will sort of agree with you on the Gibson Grp A cars. I don't know, but I would be willing to bet they were built off bare shells from japan. Certainly they did not run N1 (24U) blocks because they weren't produced until after group A was dead (92). Because I don't know for sure I won't say you are wrong about them buying 6 complete cars from japan.....but I would be very surprised if they bought anything but body shells and parts - there are very fe factory parts in the gibson cars. You can be sure they they didn't avoid "nismo" or "n1" cars because of cost. Cost was no object to winning for nissan in the late 80s, early 90s.

I've run alightly decked block (20 thou) in the past. other than needing to run a thicker head gasket to keep the valves off the pistons it was fine

everything including the ECU runs off the same speed sender so they will all read close enough the same. tyre size (ie different to standard) is the most likely reason for the speedo to be out - have you tested it back to a GPS?

Thanks mate, details sent. It is looking very (too?) busy that month