Duncan

while the cars were amazing in the day...things have come a long way in 20 years. the group a cars had custom hubs and control arms for a start....very little was standard. I have seen the alignment specs and they were not far from what most people would already choose. eg not a heap of camber or toe out. remember they were pretty heavy and tyres were not huge.

yes, there are no synchros on reverse (and I think it is straight cut too?) It can be tricky to get first time sometimes, just let the clutch out in neutral then clutch back in and try again

what a great thing to be involved in....would love to see anything you are allowed to share about the experience

fuel rail is just a tube with some fittings....they *should* be cheap I've got china all over my rb30 stagea, very happy with it. turbo has failed twice but everything else has been fine

yay for rb30s in stageas (that's twice I've got to say that tonight)

sorry, advertising by unpaid traders is not allowed on SAU. please either register to be a trader, or set up a "group buy" in the correct section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Group-Buys-f61.html

looks like the result of a nasty crash at the traffic lights

"do it". I've got an rb30 stagea and it's brilliant to drive BTW unless you are upgrading AFM and injectors, 250awkw is all you'll get (well that's where mine ran out). but that is plenty to get a volvo moving around the suburbs

I'm tall, Kel's short. Bride low rails for me, just bolt in, easy/hassle free. originally had multiple bolt holes but you just can't change it quickly, let alone during a pit stop

Personally I got my coating done by a bloke called Chris from Craved Coatings in penrith. He has done for me: wheels (white powdercoat) 2 sets gtr engine covers and plenum (yellow/purple) stagea coil pack cover (wrinkle black) turbo zorst housings (ceramic thermal coating) sump, radiator, oil cooler, intercooler (radiating thermal paint) and probably a few other things over the years and he is outrageously cheap. good prices too

they all (32-34) have the same mounting locations, you just need to match the caliper to the right disk, or get an adapter if you want to mismatch caliper/disc. 32 gtr and 33 gtst are interchangeable (32 gtr is greenish with fins and nissan, 33 gtst is bluer with sumitomo)

well a bit late.... but you don't have to remove the driveshaft/hub to replace the wheel studs. put a wheel nut back on the one you have to replace and tap the stud out with a hammer (ok you may need to bash, not tap...but be as gentle as you can for the wheel bearing's sake). the rears from memory have a place cut out on the hub to let the stud thru so you may need to rotate the hub.

absolutely right, water is about the best thing in the universe for taking energy and getting hot slowly. only 2 problems - stopping rust (corrosion inhibitor) and it freezes at 0..... When I was having cooling problems I ran straight distilled water + redline water wetter, it ran literally 10-15o cooler than coolant.

I am not sure about the sway bar, I've never had one move around. But you are dead right about the caster.....shorter radius rod = more caster.

luckyu for you rb26 heads still seem to be legal onr b20s THC_2010_Supplementary_Regulations_110910.pdf

no, 8-10mm is way too much from the caliper. depending on design 2-3mm from a corner might be OK btw please dont double post threads

hahah spoke to soon. and the raceworx rb34dettrr gtr is out the window as well. thank god! good to see e85 is no longer restricted to 1 supplier (anyone's is fine, hello 92c/l race fuel!) sadly the corner cutting rule still talks about "predetermined" corners only. good work....tighten them even more next time to keep the cost down! still a PITA for me because the CAMS production car rules and aasa tarmac rally rules keep moving further apart.

absolutely correct....in fact I pulled apart a 94 R32 on the weekend and it has pull clutch and long oil pump drive. also had what I would normally call 33 gtst calipers instead of the similar but different external r32 gtr calipers. few other wierd things too.

lol....i see! in the bin then

ahh yeah I've got 3 spares....just change it for another second hand one. Couple of people have tried to rebuild them (there are threads around) but there are too many wierd seals you can't replace

that would be Mark from Hills Motorsport...he has recently seen the light and picked up a stag. hasn't got around to painting it yet

excellent, thanks for the detail. Do you have any way to see the ECU speed after you modified the dash, eg PFC? I have a digital dash that runs of the ECU, so it's not really the dash I want to modify (unless of course the gearbox signal goes to the dash then the ECU, that is how the mechanical r32 one works but I kind of assumed the electric ones go to the ECU then the speedo

fair enough....where can I find something cheaper?

I've got the rear middle floor mat for someone who wants it....doesn't fit with the manual conversion console. pick up only in sydney. yes I have all the other mats too. No you can't have them

lol my car is wierd. no part 31038 either. you are on your own here...have to find someone else with a manual conversion