Duncan

agreed. no surge tank in my race car either. road use....if you really are worried....keep it over 1/4 tank. for those asking for the lid to be sold seperate....I bet it is worth at least half of the cost of the full kit. billet/cnc is never cheap

yeah there is at least 1 there. I'm sure another will be very welcome and popular

mine turned out to be a short in the abs of all things. sorted apparently

jeebus don't run it like that! I fried by boost controller, ecu injector drivers and stereo at only 15-16v in the course of 2 weeks

lol I think I can see the problem in those pics....

GT are lucky to get 2x 30min races with cockrane handing out the session times. there are no holdens nor fords in that field so they are lucky to be there at all. Tony's perfect Bathurst event: Supertaxi 1000 konica supertaxi race muscle car support race (group A and C cars stay home, minis not welcome in case they win) saloon car support race aussie race cars (aurion not welcome) commodore cup if a 5th category is required. what a pity for him that Fraud and Holdem aren't willing to put up millions a year for his circus any more.

btw mechanic checked all my fuses (specifically told them about missing fuse theory), and did not solve my problem. got a specialist auto sparky looking at it

strange hugh. I don't have any fouling issues, and run copper plugs with my FF plenum. It is probably not directly related

c'mon Roy, 90% of big hp cars don't see the race track at all, 9% see it on the internet only. I guess 1% may visit a track once. 3 big hp GTRs in Aus regularly do track work. so there is a market for this. And you can be sure that billet fitting for the tank lid that seals properly costs a mint to produce. Looks excellent and much safer than the dodgy fittings most people use

interesting question....my stagea is currently charging at 15.5v, no change after replacing the alternator. there is a recent thread elsewhere here where 2 different people have overcharging issues, resolved by adding a missing fuse (or replacing a blown one). I don't understand but it was the same symptom and same fix for both

agreed....but since murphy's lap was in qualifying not racing it doesn't count as a lap record either. nothing can ever take away from murphy's lap, it was done years of development ago and stood for ages. amazing.

point proven right there really.

yeah you suck. but perhaps you weren't looking stock to stock. anything can be done with mods, after all a filthy emo won superlap

the GTR is definately quicker stock for stock...we race a few in NSW production cars and the EMO 5 is slower, by a second or 2. Emo 9/10 is a different matter. That is all on standard size wheels and standard boost though.

well there you go...wikipedia can be wrong! airbags were only an option in series 2 (very common though)

its only a temporary tyre to get you out of trouble....get to a tyre shop for a proper solution

goddamit the scam is finally over ah well they were good times.

meh i use bolt all the time, never had a problem. just remember the washer to make sure the chain can't slip off.

don't forget pretty much every skyline is aus has spent 6 months sitting around at auctions/docks/compliancers as well. other than dead battery (always disconnect, and if possible charge it every few weeks), I've never had any problem. And my car is often off the road

BTW the click is almost always a dead battery or bad connections between the battery and starter....just does not have enough volts to turn it.

I'm pretty sure it's not the same as even the stock diameter. It is an emergency spare and you should replace it asap.

A couple of things: Almost every torque split controller does not let you set a fixed torque percentage. They just allow you to increase the amount of front torque over what the attessa system would do on it's own. The HKS Kansai controller is the only one I am aware of that lets you do a fixed split R33's attessa pump has some pressure in the line at all times, this means it is always running at least a little front torque. It has been proven over and over again that the only safe way to run 2wd in a 33/34 is to remove the front driveshaft - luckily that only takes 5 min and 4 bolts.

no-one can do burnouts on a public road....the laws of physics prevents it. Burnouts only work off the street. kind of like sump baffle syndrome only exists in NSW and n1 pumps only fail in vic. but...n/a skylines are still great.....better than a falcodore or something.

great upgrade brad

banned. f**k off elsewhere if you want to be an idiot and give import drivers a bad name