Duncan

hahah i see....can't exactly be surprised if something isn't right at the hight have you calculated the roll centre and roll couple?

good work mate.....most fun you can have with your clothes on

exactly what I managed to do in a race. clutch was welded to the flywheel. removed, machined, reinstalled and it is fine now. no reason to replace a clutch if this happens....just avoid getting it so hot, and make sure the clutch is bedded to the flywheel properly (ie both flat, mine took a few ks after machining it to come up OK)

and I'll unlock it for a moment (sorry Nick!) to mention that Louie no longer runs xclusive colours....it is a very different business now

nowhere near the top of 5th on a rural airport unless it was made to land A380s. they are crappy, rocky, diesel covered places where you will get wheelspin up to 4th or higher in any high powered car

I think DBA had a bad batch or something a few years back, I have slotted dbas on the race car and have had no cracking issues

A creaking noise would generally be a stuffed bush - there is one at the end of each suspension arm. much as I hate suggesting it, pedders could help identify the stuffed bush (then get it fixed elsewhere )

I've known that car for years, it is definately a 260rs and has had a serious amount of money spent on it with quality parts. good buy.

yeah since AASA own winton there are likely to be lots of their events there. Keep an eye on their calendar.

yeah it was high enough to kill the boost controller, radio, and powerfc. and yes i'd be happy to replace a fuse or voltage regulator rather than a whole head unit. I will open up one of them and confirm what died. but the point stands....anything electronic should have fuse protection....the boost controller head unit is just a big electric power switch for the solenoid

many of the brands have thin walled impact sockets, normally for fitting in tight wheels. I got the size i needed at a local auto one but most places with a decent range should carry something. Tools online, including kincrome....this place is cheap, fast and has great specials from time to time: www.transquip.com.au

boost controllers are boost controllers....unless you are trying to bleed off heaps of boost the basic ones are fine. but....having recently killed 3 profec Bs I will never go near them again. profec B has no fuses on unit's power supply or the solenoid power supply, and my car had a voltage issue (too high). I bet greddy saved 3c per unit cutting that corner the turbosmart has internal fuses that would have prevented the whole control unit dying, so that is what I have swapped to for my stagea and race car. same results as far as boost controll goes, but more reliable.

well....DBA put those paint stripes on the discs too, and all I've ever learned is my brakes get hotter than 800o

lol stuffed if I can tell them apart now! seems to me like cockrane is desperately trying anything to save his crappy concept. hope the whole series continues to decline, and the money going into australian motorsport stops getting clogged up in one crappy street racing series with only 32 cars.

sure did, thanks Mitch

I am sure I can get hold of Gary if everyone is serious. He is no longer in the industry and has obviously sold selbys but he can still source stuff. Just don't expect quick turnarounds, he is only doing this sort of stuff on the side. BTW yes selby's are expensive....but they are making one off custom sway bars. when doing common models, whiteline have the advantage of being able to pay china to make twisted lumps of metal in the right general shape which is of course heap cheaper. None of which changes the fact that swaybars are an amazing upgrade for these cars.

unfortunately life is not that simple. top nut first....you should always do it up tight. while a side effect may have been preloading the spring in your case, it's job is to hold the shock assembly together. re spring height and being captive....if the spring is too short to remain captive, you can either ignore it and live with the knocking noise (lots of race cars do but I think it's too annoying in a road car), or get helper springs. The helper spring is a very light spring that stops the main spring rattling.

any power steering fluid will be fine, although nissan happily recommend their "special power steering fluid 2" which is about $1000per litre.

looks like I have a seat for you too Matt....Kel can't get out of work

if it is the nylon bush at the bottom of the shifter, nissan sell them for about 20c. they are identical to r31 skyline/d21 navara and most dealers have the part in stock I've had to replace 2 over the years, one on the gtr, one on my navara. however....the nylon bush just goes into the selector, when it is missing you should be still be able to find all the gears, the shifter will just move around heaps. If you can't select a gear maybe the bush is jammed somewhere? In both cases for me the bush must have fallen to the bottom of the box because I've had no problems since

yeah aint that the truth....I managed to run the wrong tyres on sat in the dry, AND the wrong tyres on sunday in the wet! I rock!

about bloody time you started this thread.

yeah the weather was apalling, and so was the grip (both ends) in my car. I think the tyres were mostly to blame, those commodores drove past me like I was standing still....they easily had 10klm/h more at the apex. My best lap was 2.10 in race 3....Bob Pearson's emo did a 1.58. Outrageous

Race 3, mid race: Race 3, last lap:

yeah big one with Tyrell on the last lap exit of turn 3. nasty. but actually considering it was the last round, and everyone was racing for sheep stations, everyone was amazingly well behaved. youtube is going up now