Duncan

lol 7 year old quote! goes to show how old this thread is. for what it is worth anf was based in west ryde until a few years ago when he opened dahtone racing in wetherill parkq

paul you need to get a brass or similar equivalent made up. more vibration/noise etc but who cares in race use having said that some people kill lots of them with dog boxes and others kill none, so no doubt there is a trick to shifting I don't know

haha great work! love the time lapse pic of almost a whole lap at night. the pic along the wall at the last turn is funny too....so crooked...you can see where it used to get hit all the time chris....sure did take forever.....but racing is about close, not about speed. otherwise it's just a super sprint. no better place to learn racing than in slow and even cars.

yep that's correct - a small o-ring in the lip that seals to the fuel rail, and a larger one (that is more of a spacer) to seat it between the head and the rail correctly.

Oh and in the wet.....tyre pressure 1-2psi higher, less camber if you are able to adjust it quickly and easily. soften the shocks a couple of clicks too if you can

No Stu....I miss-typed! definately toe in at the rear not out, I have editted above.

yeah all the reaquired new internal bits will be available from nissan unless you have done something very unusual

love it

btw why is there a triple stack tool chest in the fast lane of the pits?

yep....its got you wrapped up.....its got you wrapped up gooood

I bought "Pinnacle Studio", wasn't too expensive and unlike windows movie maker runs all the input and output formats you would want (WMM does not support HD or widescreen on win64). Also easy to use.

Can you guys confirm if E85 meets this definition? At the moment I think not due to the number of sites: Pump Fuel: A commercial fuel (as defined above) available for sale on demand from a roadside retail bowser outlet at each of at least five separate service stations in each of at least three Australian States.

ok that helps a mile! I'm by no means a guru but this is my ideas..... first up....road tyres (even good ones). probably ok for 1-3 laps at a high pressure. after that you would be in trouble but at superlap that's not an issue. compared to my car you make 100kw more and weigh about the same, but you have crap (relitively) tyres. and much harder springs and same or harder bars. its a gtr, right? so.... less camber front and much less rear. your car will slide before it rolls up on the tyre too much. and you don't want much camber on the rear because it will lead to wheelspin. front camber 2.5o, rear camber 1.5o or even 1.0o. Maybe .25o more on the right front castor - as much as you can get without rubbing as always. 7o is heaps in a 4wd I am surprised you could get there without issues (then again r33 is much better at the front than r32) toe front....I run 1mm out but I think that is a personal preference. I've heard of people running between 1-3mm out per side. More will be dartier (ie feel like it turns in better) but ultimately will have less grip IMHO. toe rear....depends how much you like the tail to move. +2mm for very stable, +1mm for normal/neutral or 0mm for unexpected mid corner oversteer (can help with mid corner understeer for a flat out lap like superlap). pressure...what tyres? assuming falken rsr or kumho ku36 or similar I would run about 40psi hot and check how it feels. Yes it is very high but it really helps in hard tyres, especially for only a few laps. BTW no matter what with road tyres you will rip up your outside front. If you can take a spare outside front for the weekend and change it after practice. also...just be stable in turn 1 (ie settle it early and keep it smooth), and be very patient in turn 2 (apex is the end of the ripple strip on the exit on bad tyres). don't fall for what you see the super taxis do it wont work on road tyres

what happened when you did what I suggested? that is not how it would normally be bled. If you are genuninely not getting coolant out the bleeder trying that on flat ground, you have a serious issue in the intake manifold at best. and pulling that off is a bastard

freebie remember? I'm ok to take your place snowy as long as I can run your car as well. I can supply own navigator, don't need the bloodnut

filthy ricers. lets talk about greasy bits again

no that is nowhere near the rear strut unfortunately. the rear strut top is well into the boot. and the lower arms and diff mount to a subframe with mounting points elsewhere. pete....pain the cage good. it is impossible to get to later once everything is back in

definately new bearings at about $300 for a set. get some ACL racing ones shipped over.

very interesting project....more pics! it wasn't exactly a bolt in for the upper arms by the look of it, did you have to cut out the clearance for the upper arm? got pics from the other side? I guess if you can locate the upper arm anywhere you can actually fix most of the issues we have with the stock location: can't lower it/move roll centre can't run too much castor due to flogging out upper arm bushes. I am literally lucky to get 1/2 a season out of the upper arms before they flog out, and that is without roll centre adjustment. my build thread is here but it talks only about the rear...we have not finished the front and are going to go a pretty custom direction (with ae86 lower arms of all things). Also it's never turned a wheel so take it all with a grain of salt. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...ld-t221982.html

bloody hell how did I miss this? great work, I love the effort in cleaning everything up (shame it will look crap after 2 days on the track....so keep the pics ) also love the space you have to work in, must make the job easier. good luck with the build...I'm sure it will go quicker than your dad's whale

you make me look like a brand loving money whore. this motor ripped great skids though

no sadly....that project is very much on ice, and will be for another 12 months. Not canned...but very stopped right now. Would be good to hear what you find Trent, MR2 or MR-S? either way I guess I am unlikely to find one. what current do they draw

oh BTW my plans changed. I killed my first motor for the year on the 16th day of it...new record. At least I got to compete in the last race meet at Oran Park, and I set the fastest lap and was leading (until the motor blew lol)

I couldn't afford the Earls catalogue let alone their bits. putting them all over the engine bay could cost $1000. I use proflow or stock stuff

mebbe....who has info on this??? why aren't we talking about it? I would prefer not to have to head to tassie to race. its expensive and the people there are scarey. like tim and ben