Duncan

for what it's worth, if you are even half serious you are wasting your time with anything but the best tyres. when you are on the track are you competing (eg supersprint)? or running a lap timer? top line semi slicks like re55s or dz03 will give you at least 1 second a lap over falken rsr/kumho ku36. second tier semis like kumho v70 or toyo 888 or yoko a048 will be at least 1/2 sec faster. If cost is an issue (it always is lol) the v70 kumhos are a good choice at about 1300 va set in 245/40/17. even better if you want to save money - run the smallest diameter wheel you can fit over the brakes. 17s are about 30% cheaper than 18s and 16s are cheaper again. the stiffer sidewall of semi slick tyres minimises or eliminates any disadvantage from the higher sidewall.

or just get them fitted to the rims. the webs won't make much difference. in fact I always leave the redbacks in there to see if the tyre fitters are paying attention

have you done a compression test? I think you've got a busted ring land.

all the gear I take to a race meet along with a 2t trailer but the ute still wins....I brought an entire ikea kitchen home in that....its was so top heavy I literally though it would roll in the corners

lol just the hoses Neil got to change the one I split at the race track the other day (the water line that goes to the turbos). Took a couple of hours and a lot of burns and skined knuckles. Heater hoses are also there. Just Jap sell full silicon hose replacement kits for 32/33/34.

AFAIK....yes! the difference is in the pump on the diff and the computers...I am pretty sure that the xfer case is the same. I have a 32 gtr transfer case in mine.

pfft stop wasting money on garret stuff if it dies that quick and go to ebay/china you can blow 10 $200 turbos before a garret one is cheaper.

yeah little sheets from bunnings....but the 1.2 x2.4m sheets are probaly cheaper than what bunnings sells.

for sure. it the past it has been a 1 hr highlights package on sbs.

depends....pathfinder if I need a new tow car, or r32 gtr vspec 2 if the garage is finished. then a kgc10. charles....i like your style

lol was Kel doing skids again?

umm yeah. a mixed day today - I started from 5th and was first by turn 1. Had a great tussle with Greg (stretch) over about 4 laps, he was killing me on the straight but I snuk by over the back of the track. unfortunately both the water and oil got hot so I coasted home in 9th. Still had the fastest lap and I reckon I would have finished OK if I did not have to back off. when I got back to the pits the car was not cooling down at all so I shut it off - turned out I had split a heater hose under the plenum (the water feed for the turbos) and dumped heaps of the coolant. huge thanks to Neil in particular for burning his hands over and over for about 3 hours changing that hose, it was in an absolute bastard of a spot, heaps of stuff including the starter motor had to come out to change it. Also big thanks to Kel and Scott for helping all weekend, and Steve-o and Mark's excellent gtr pushing abilities. anyway...the bottom line is the head gasket is badly blown so the motor is coming out for a check and probable rebuild (mainly deck the block and shave the head as I assume they are warped). I have a spare motor pretty much ready so I will be back soon enough - and hopefully without the heat problems.

hahaha don't worry....I'll give it a red hot go BTW entry is free to the track today, so its a good chance to drop by Oran Park and see some racing before it's goooooooone

that particular one is absolutely, f**king hilarious. I was going to offer them $1 and put it at the front gate of my house instead of the intercom

indeed - I would only ever use electric senders for in cabin stuff (exept boost, that's pretty safe). Although more expensive they are must safer in terms of senders and plumbing them in BTW what happened to URAS?

how very unfortunate. I was aksing because I was looking into this but am not happy to pay $12k for something that may not come with warranty that it is OK. In particular - if there is no warranty expected I think it is important to tear the motor down and check all clearances even though it is brand new and from nissan. I trust no-one.

actually, that was too polite. clinton, don't complain unless you are willing to do something about it (ie report it). The admins of the site are volunteers not trained spam removing monkeys.

actually, I didn't see you report it either? maybe you should if you think it is spam?

mountainrunner has access to some bosch senders and their calibration curves for datalogging which is very handy! adrian, I run autometer electic pressure gauges on both race cars and they have been faultless. but for trouble shooting a problem, a $40 mechanical gauge on the pressure side in the engine bay can not be beaten. In fact for that sort of price I don't know why every modified skyline doesn't have one.

yeah I welded up all mine a few years back, no problemo. Like you I guess they are for manufacture

hey lawler - when you see this rubbish hit the "report a post button" so an admin can delete it. we don't necessarily catch everything straight away

lol I really want to know what use the garages are unless you happen to have a 10om downhill and rearward sloping area that really needs a bunch of garages

sorry to hear that mate - can I ask, when you say N1 crate motor, did you just buy a complete motor from nissan? did anyone pull it down to check the clearances? Assuming it was an untouched crate motor and only lasted 12000klm, I think you would have a decent claim for warranty under fair trading laws. You would certainly expect that sort of motor/investment to last longer.

nah JB is an Oran Park specialist, but in good news for you John I am available that day.

hahah its funny isn't it. laptimes are the only thing that matter for qualifying but they don't tell much of a story. as Kel said I ended up staying in the muscle category although a few of the guys I normally race with are allowed to stay in production cars. As it happens its not really an issue so far because with high boost my car is in the top few anyway. It definately should not be but I guess the quick cars stayed home.....so meh. basically I had another frustrating day..... P1....car was absolutely diabolical to drive, it oversteered like crazy on the exit of every corner P2....blew a cooler pipe off, and the car was still oversteering Q.....4 laps then pulled in because it was too hot. the cooler pipe was very annoying - once again proving the only people you can trust to work on a race car are yourselves. Lots of good work was done on the car, quickly, last week - but it counts for nothing if they forget even 1 hose clamp can't wait till I have a garage and any f**k ups are exclusively our fault! cars was handling like an absolute bucket of shit (probably made for great photos!), with crazy oversteer out of every corner. I actually pulled in during P1 because it was so bad I though something was broken. Still managed the quickest lap of the day but it was....."tricky". When we went to put new tyres on for qualifying the problem was clear - we had killed the rear tyres at Mt Buller with overinflation - the middle of the tyre was bald but the outsides were OK so I had not noticed (need to always check properly). Anyway - with the new tyres on that problem is well and truely solved, the handling is back to brilliant now. I love a GTR when it is behaving they are soooo easy to drive. P2 was also over after 5 laps due to the cooler pipe blowing off. Don't get me started again. My race car has been to heaps of workshops and I have never got it back perfect (ie ready to race) Qualifying was looking OK - car was handling great and going well, but it was still getting hot. I did a couple of laps to warm the tyres then pulled in to get Neil and Scott to check the pressures. Soon as I pulled in the temps climbed, water hit 120 and oil hit 140. I did 2 slow laps to cool down but they were staying up, so I retired. So....for tomorrow.....I've got no doubt Greg has the quickest car on the grid but I might be able to hold on to second. I qualified 5th but everything in front of me is 2wd so I have a decent chance to take some at the start. But most likely unless the water temps magically get OK I will have to retire after 4-5 laps. I'll try low boost and see if that keeps me in the game. BTW....the $800 PWR top of the line radiator is exactly as bad as the $350 china radiator. Might as well have thrown $500 on the ground and stomped on it. And to add insult to injury the china radiator was direct fit, and the PWR require heaps of work.