Duncan

looks dusty last I saw it!

I'd suggest neither. You really want longer lower control arms not shorter upper arms if possible

David....come the the texikhana on 31/1 and give your new car a good run!

this is way late....but the seat belts are probably not your biggest issue - I've never seen a jap bolt in cage that meets CAMS regulations. Just get the belt mounts put in when you get a proper cage put in

omg I haven't heard of meggala in years. he did heaps of the early importing/projects/engine swaps and was one of the founding admins of this site

that'll do me....send me your bank details, I'll need it shipped to 2138.

I've entered mine, the stagea is pretty big but these courses are pretty open as well. Should be interesting to see how it goes

lol didn't take her long to decide between Texi and Targa Westpoint. Considering she was going to pay you back for thrashing the z at Oran Park I think she's made the wrong choice entries are looking good at the moment - if you are thinking about entering don't delay because it will probably fill up!

yeah its a good guide, from his tune to win book which is worth a read. this wasn't the full list though he blames the driver as the first item in a lot of the lists.....which I reckon is spot on in many cases

what about 3l motor and high mount turbo? interesting wheels above, they are the spitting image of 32 gtr vpsec wheels except for the centre cap

uggh the stagea looks terrible.

There are 2 little vacuum hoses up there, to and from the fuel pressure regulator and another (cant remember where it goes off the top of my head). Make sure they are both in place

lol crazy! I hope you are an organ donor

Its not that easy! S1 vs S2 vs R34 pin outs are not the same although they are similar

you gotta be really careful with this sort of problem on a new motor. The first few minutes of running are really important for the rings bedding in, and if it is pumping fuel but not firing you can get "fuel-wash" which will glaze the bores and make it very hard for the rings to bed in correctly. yes the standard setup has a non-return valve in the tank, but if you don't have it now you might just need to crank it a second or 2 longer. I've run without the valve for years. I'm assuming from your post above that everything is OK now once it is started? get that motor run in, nice and hard, asap! a mechanical fuel pressure guage is under $50 - grab one and put it into the pressure line - it will tell you sooo much with so little stuffing around.

January: do every race I can at Oran Park before it closes. Right now that is Irace on 14-15/1 and the final meet on 23-24/1. And give Neil a hand at the last state supersprint on 16/1. March - Bathurst Sprint, Lake Mountain Sprint November - National Supersprint in Qld (I thought it was QR, but maybe Morgan Park?). And whatever else I can do when I'm up there. And as many rounds of NSW combined touring as I can

ahh was that v35 white? If so it was about 500kw and was built before nissan got around to doing the r35.....

hey where would the fun be if you didn't come close to losing your life every now and then?

johnny's upper arms?

hey kyle good to see you are still around....please help pete I want to see this car last more than 2 laps. what did you end up doing with the bonnet? what's next? you can't go past a basic bond cage for the price. a comprehensive cage can always be sorted out later if needed, I'm still running a basic cage in mine (then again I've never roled mine off a cliff)

haha you left your one mistake a year f**king late. speaking of mistakes I had an almost brand new jack break on me tonight which dropped the car, in fact both graeme and neil have used the shiney new red thing. never, ever trust a jack alone, always use stands.

why are you sure it is not a warped disc? I've only ever felt pad or fluid fading as a "mushy" pedal, vibration/noise would only ever be something mechanical, either warped discs or something caught in the wheel/caliper

you check that link tiger? metal brackets, good price

I had a quick ask around the guys I can contact this week - but no-one had new coilpacks in stock. If you can get your hands on the coils they are dead easy to change.

do you already have the coil packs? if so very easy job (I can give you a hand one night this week if you are stuck). If you don't have the coil packs - what model are they for? Also you should probably do plugs and their gaps at the same time.