Duncan

run a thin line of silicone gasket maker (blue/grey or black stuff, same as you would use for the sump) under the half moons before you install them. the rest of the cam cover gaskets do not require sealant. they do require rubber bushes on each screw/bolt in good condition (replace them! or just use 3mm slices of fuel hose like we did in the race car). most important...do not over-tighten the cam cover bolts...they are meant to be 15-20nm only!!!

wtf are you doing in aussie without going to race tracks?

lol so is the computer you typed this on. do you have a particular concern with specific bits of their stock or do you just beleive nothing from china can work???

oil analysis? there was a thread in the last week where someone (elite I think) posted phone numbers for capital cities. if you don't want to pull the motor analysis is 100% the way to go....couple of days and you will know. too drunk to find it myself its a bacheloring weekend for me

green stuff work as well from cold as they do warm. I've bought 2 sets now....never again. the qfm stuff that gslrallysport can supply are excellent for the price.

oh yes...absolutely right....sevs requires brand new adr approved tyres too. you have the dealer over a barrel so just hit them hard on this one.

interesting choice on the rear LCAs, i would have thought (and did) that changing to full custom was better. Nothing special about the stock arms and pretty easy to replace with chromoly tube. Did you keep the standard rear LCA ball joints, we found it difficult to match an aftermarket cone for the ball joint socket (no machine shop readily available to me)

lol i'm sure it is within budget for them....but still....what an choice! I'd be straight back to the haltec if I were them, very much race proven in many cars. Or at least spend a little longer on a safe tune please tell me he is going to return it to legal spec before targa....I'd hate to see it excluded. unfortunately I'm not going to make lake mountain (was intending to) but I'd rather do FOSC at bathurst and I can't get organised for both....lake mountain next year.

better pics of the xfer case on the m35 auto? It looks like a very good match to the R32/33/34 4wd setup. does someone have a 32/33/34 intermediate shaft they can stick into an m35 xfer case? I tend to think the 32/33/34 box is the way to go, the interfaces are flywheel/clutch/input shaft (do-able), tailshaft (do-able) and intermediate shaft (do-able). I'd be surprised if the d22 navara stuff fits, they would have a very different front diff setup

I'd be very tempted not to accept the dealer's offer on this one. They (unlike a private seller) are required under fair trading act to make sure the "goods are fit for the purpose they are sold for". the insurance style warranty they included for $500 will not come close to covering the cost of repair (I guess around $2k). The only option I would accept from the dealer is a replacement turbo, all at their cost. No way can they justify 2 days as being acceptable

excellent idea....stolen for future use too btw jjskyline79, STATUS has previously posted back to back dyno comparisons showing AVCR controlling boost poorly compared to other options...try a search on here

lol.....you can't be too careful with C words

hey fear not....we will take anyone it does take a week or 2 to process memberships (more if you are EAT-430 ) because we are all volunteers. but fear not....you are in the system! Shell looks after membership if you need to nag someone

lol poor old nugget has been sitting in a container for a year. It's not dead, but is on hold and probably will be for another 12 months until our house is finished.

lol thanks mate. anyway...I still rate falken 452 as some of the best tyres around....however any NSW club member would be mad to go past federal 595SS at the price we get them thru the club. Not as good as the falkens but close, and half the price. or you could pay 500 a corner for something similar from dunlop/bridgestone/goodyear etc. BTW don't judge a tyre range on one tyre model. All of the large manufacturers have a range of tyre models at different price points....don't judge a tyre brand by it's crappy cheapy tyre.

merged

+1 for Louie, I have been taking cars there for years and he always does a great job. Nick was spot on about location, on cumberland hwy a few doors up from victoria ave.

good question...about time martin posted up helpful information for free instead of just pushing stuff he sells....so what are you running Martin? and what alignment settings? other than those guys, there are some very fast gtrs running in the NSW supersprint champs and also a few people (quinn x2, alford, leihmus, jones) running them in tarmac rallies. I think in most cases they are running the standard suspension setup and the big trick has been finding suitable wheels and tyres.

or on the air on a hoist....

mate you've got one of the best cars ever built, please don't put basic tyres under it. even worse, don't put rubbish tyes under it then spend money on mods for power/handling/brakes. Remember every single $$ you spend on that stuff gets transmitted through whatever tyres you fit. For between 250 and 400 a tyre (ie no more than $1600), you can make your car handle brilliantly without changing anything else If you are looking for good value performance tyres check out falken fk 452, federal 595S or kumho ku36. All very good value for money and some of the best ways you can improve your car.

what are your wheel alignment settings (toe, camber, castor, ride height - front and rear) and what is it specifically about the handling that you want to improve (ie does it understeer, oversteer, and where: corner entry, mid corner or corner exit)? Also what tyres are you running, how new, and what pressures do you run them at? I know, lots of questions but it can help narrow things down. Also, have you had much driver training/advice? Its funny how often approach to a corner makes a difference to the problems you are having

yeah we were a bit short on stageas this time....next one will be on a 4wd dyno to make it easier

Big thanks to Steve and Nick for getting this together and keeping it all running smoothly, unfortunately I had to disappear early.

did you end up sorting this? it should have coolant come out once it is up to temp and pressure when it is bled correctly. if a normal bleed is not working, make sure the front of the car is raised a little (on stands/jack if necessary), take soft drink bottle with the botton cut off and wrap the kneck in electrical or similar tape so it is a snug fit in the radiator neck. fill the bottle with coolant (ie the level in the bottle is the highest point coolant can get to. if everything is working OK coolant should come pouring out the bleeder straight away. If not something is blocked

btw duncan you should get one of those harness bars from the other thread....looks like your belts are at more than 45o angle not good considering how quick you are going....