Duncan

just check out the PDF on the federal website for approved fitment, you will find there is a wide range for 8" rim. http://www.federaltyres.com.au/ss595rsr on the race car we run 8" rims and have used 225 up to 245 depending on the tyre. if it is rubbing you could always consider different offset wheels or just spacers to move it out a little.

c'mon Martin, unless you car is running 2x 24mm intake restrictors it is not IPRA spec, and unless it is running factory boost it's not Production spec. Therefore I'm willing to bet yours is a sports sedan too Its great to see an r35 winning any event, but there's no need to talk down the money and development in this car compared to the privateer club cars you were running against.

why the downgrade?

there certainly will be...we just need a date! weekend I hope.

lol the french don't acknowledge monaco either!

yeah sorry I had never read the 2F rules - they require a 34mm restrictor just like 3J so I personally would not consider it. Not sure what Noddy is up to perhaps he just skipped that line in the rules

lol....goulburn is indeed the Monaco of the southern highlands

probably not....it sits up highest under brakes then down a little for high speed corners like turn 1. very flat on the straights.

SAU NSW will be able to offer historic rego in the next few months too won't be long until we can cruise putty rd in r32 gtrs on historic rego but there are plenty of club member cars over 30 years old already....1980 and later....

I don't understand (then again I don't have an iphone lol). Can't you browse web pages from an iphone? I though pretty much any high end phone can do that?

that sucks....but yuo can probably sell the wrong bearings on here

its a simple enough job, just some work involved. car up in the air on stands wheel off undo the outer and inner end bolts for the control arm to remove it (can be siezed on pretty tight so maybe get some wd40 on them then come back later) press out the old bushes (hard to do it without a big press, I broke a little mobile press doing UCA bushes) grease then press in the new bushes reinstall the upper arm, tighten bolts to spec (pretty damn tight, check the workshop manual) wheel back on car back on ground tighten wheelnuts to 110nm drive to wheel alignment assuming the bushes are not adjustable you will have not problems driving to a wheel alignment. if they are adjustable be careful, random wheel alignment can lead to very unpredictable handling (camber affects toe as well). try and set adjustable bushes at home first to same time and money at the wheel aligner..shorter distance between inner and outer bolts = more camber.

not really sure how much longer it was but it came up right. I had a second issue because my car has cruise control and the standard TB has nowhere to put that, they guys connected the cruise control cable to the main throttle cable just before the TB and it is working a treat. yeah be careful with fit and flatness on the plenum....some people have no trouble others have heaps....typical china quality control (ie non existant...you might be lucky). most important make sure the gasket surface is flat or you will have no luck getting a proper seal. mine was milled flat before installation

oops a bit late....but happy birthday! hope you got to spend it working on the car!`

yeah pretty much all of the factory nissan LSDs stop working after about 50,000klm, they just become SDs depends how much of a problem it is for you - a new mechanical diff is about 1500 installed but will last much longer. no point buying a second hand LSD it won't work either

sounds like excellent fun, our texi events there have been going great. nice and close to home, and very cheap skids

its for a c/f bonnet matt not for cams rules. I would not be running a c/f or fibreglass bonnet without bonnet pins of some sort, and the aerocatch ones don't protrude from the bonnet which might keep the cops happier (not that a c/f bonnet is legal itself lol). down side of the aerocatch ones is they don't really fit properly after a bit of use - so probably ok on a road car where the bonnet doesnt open often but a PITA for a race car where it opens all the time

bugger just bought one of these (the expensive version) because I hadn't seen you post a GB for a while. For anyone looking into these, I bought one about 3 years ago for a car and its still going strong. Can you get any smaller sizes, I want to get one of these into the race car

yeah 2.5hrs sounds reasonable - actually even with the right gear it might take longer depending how easily they come out.

fark that's a long time to be in Goulburn....even the locals leave every few days got some specific dates/events lined up? You should get to both MDTC and Wakie if you are there that long. We will try and drum up some interest. BTW I heard you have some decent cubes at last?

Yep I think that about covered it throttle cable mounts to the motor side of the throttle body (might be upside down, not sure), and there is an adapter because I am using the standard throttle - I guess these plenums are made to allow for bigger throttles/more power than I need. still had to cut the battery box slightly for TPS clearance. throttle cable is r31 skyline but apparently ca18/s13 one also is fine. the cooler pipe goes thru where the battery tray was quite close the chasis rail, I've fitted a smaller odysey battery in there now instead. How is yours going Hugh, ready to run?

oops a few less moslers in GT now

no way mate....you need to post up vids either way good luck for the first outing.

who is racing? radicals? utes? minis? gts?

don't bother mate, plastic windows are dead easy to form on top of the standard window with a heat gun. you cut a rough shape, then lay the plastic on the standard window, heat until it shapes onto the standard one then mark and cut to fit. yes they end up out of shape by the width of the plastic but it should be no real impact for race car use (ie not a show car seal) 3mm or 4mm for framed windows like rear and 6mm for frameless if you want them to go up and down and seal(ish). You may have seen pics of Mark Berry's old 32 with too thin plastic flapping around in frameless doors we went a little different and added ally frames to use 3mm plastic, was lighter all up. but fixed windows like rear 1/4 are dead easy.