Duncan

well......a full race event is tricky, because the insurance is difficult to obtain for a new track. CAMS has comprehensive and specific requirements for racing events (you could always get a copy from them) but it just won't be worth the time or money I think to do so. I am pretty sure SQU QLD is now a CAMS club. AASA have approved a couple of tracks and I don't know what their requirements are. Once again you would have to talk to them directly. You might want to start by getting a supersprint type permit....full racing will have a very high level of requirements

well maybe - but it surely isn't making 1000hp right? I don't think its just power/wheelspin/whatever, the car is moving side to side right from the start line.

way too high....people ask (and get) up to 1500 for used calipers. no rebuilt seals. no discs ($800). no brake lines ($500). no pads($200) just by g4s instead for about 2k in similar size 330

should be fine with that boost as long as the tune is OK

yes

for what its worth, I don't think the 180 tagged the s2000, but the crash was obviously caused by the s200 trying to get out go the way at 160+ I'm willing to bet that there is toe out on the rear of the 180, or f**ked/unlocked hicas, or really screwed subframe or other bushes. Not the driver's fault in as much as I don't think anyone could have driven that car safely to the end of the run. But whoever prepared the car should be shot.

can't easily get a pic, but I can read it. what do you need to know?

glad you posted up....the shifter in the 4wd skylines goes to the transfer case not the gearbox. there is a filler plug on the side of the gearbox. make sure you can undo the filler before you open the drain, they can be very tight. 4.1 litres to fill it

DTM on now!

see, now that's the problem with your local tyres shop. they spend the day putting tyres on mum's camry. how could he dismiss a whole brand as not being very good? how many tyres do you think they have actually tried? or if you want to be more cynical, what's the chance they recommend the tyre with the best margin.

most likely there is a small split in one end of the hose, so replace it. Mine is on and off regularly (with every motor) so I cable tie it each time. Never had a problem since (and despite Gary's disagreement I run my boost controller from there)

road tyres? top performance at a reasonable price? falken fk451 or federal 595SS (esp if you can get them at asu nsw prices). semi slicks? dunlop dz03.

yeah 356, and as Roy said the weds have great clearance for 17s....there is about 2mm between caliper and wheel, and this is a track only car. I also had trouble fitting 330m g4s under AVS 17s on my stagea (had to take the wheel weights off lol). anyway....I think JJ's recommendation is spot on - don't buy the 356 unless you are running 18" wheels (unless you are certain you have wheels that clear them)

swoit....more to come tonight.... 10pm Formula Drift 10:00pm - 11:00pm | One Digital G Sport, Repeat High-powered motor sport action testing drivers' skill to control a car while it slides sideways at high speed through a marked course. It is judged on execution and style rather than who finishes the course fastest. G(60)10:00pm - 11:00pm Isle of Man Tourist Trophy worth watching!

yeah 9 times out of 10 that is the thurst/release/throwout/clutch bearing, whatever you want to call it.

sorry I don't think I will be able to treat the donut princess to the level you are accustomed to - r35s and 5 star accom. I hope you will consider a 20yo r32 and cabins to be "retro"

I fit them under 17s, but it was very close and the 17s were a generous fit (internal diameter is what matters here) poor quality pic, but you can see how close the caliper is: excellent choice for the price in either 330 or 356, they both use the same caliper and pads, just different disc and caliper mount.

OMG repeat of the daytona 400 finish is on now, about 20 min to go. they are a must watch final 2 laps...

yeah its pretty common. after they have been wound back from over 100,000klm they don't like to click it over again. either give the dash a nice bash, or replace it.

Yeah we watched that too....200mph around closed roads.....33 mile lap....they're idiots but I love it.

lol my engine builder asked the exact same question about people of chinese descent. I'm just learning as I go, but one thing I am 100% certain of is that building a bottom end properly is a very simple task. I guess my concern, like I said earlier, is that a well built rb with reasonable boost doesn't breathe that much. yes some motors do, and yes they certainly do under big boost. but this thread was about "circuit, drag, drift" according to the title, and if you are in nsw and doing circuit you are either running standard boost or 2x 32mm restrictors (or you are lofty). drift I've got no idea about except that a single run is about1/2 a lap (say 60 seconds), and drift the same except it only last 11 seconds or more. if you can fill a catch can or even a head in 11 seconds (or 60 for that matter) you've got some real issues. none of my engines have ever breathed enough to fill a catch can (I use a 2 part setup with one over the cam covers and another near the battery for excess) even in very long races with sustained high revs, and I've done the same mods as the first post. I've got no doubt that there are some circumstances where there is more blow by than the average motor (high boost/agressively loose clearances), and I also think in that case you should vent the block not the head.

yeah agreed - the whole concept of a relaunch with new pricing has gone out the window. having said that, now the race season win won't happen I might give this a go anyway. for anyone wanting to do grafton, coffs and ringwood, they are all regular hill climb locations so you can do them for $100 instead of $4k.

AFAIK its only a theory - but one I agree with. stagea always seem to be 20% down on power compared to equiavlent gtst even when run in 2wd. Might put up my hard earned and get my old stagea cams measured.

BTW Paul thanks for the reminder. I added my engine blow ups to the engine death thread. As I said none were related to oil control problems - since the first motor I've build (using Gary's recommendations from the first post in this thread), I've had no oiling problems. #1: first motor http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1119558 #2: washer thru the turbos http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2541082 #3: fuel pump earth http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3498277 #4: radiator http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3717505 #5: cracked block/oil gallery in 2nd hand block http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4158984 #6: cam clearance (oil pump) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4696960 #7: crap in head galleries (cam snapped) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4696968 Its a bit sad where this thread has gone. last few pages arguing about vent vs drain (not whether it is a good idea or not) has not really added anything except confusion.

engine #7 Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr Type of failure: 67 klm, on its way to the dyno, exhaust cam snapped at the timing gear. bent valves. Factors influencing the failure: well, good question. turned out there was insufficient oil flow to the front of the exhaust cam so it siezed. which in turn was caused by crap in the oil gallery which blocked it. State of tune of the engine: standard except for cam gears and computer. approx 250kw Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, kumho v70A. Oil used and service interval: mineral run in oil General comments: I haven't seen another oil gallery blockage issue in this thread, but it does happen. since then the engine shop has been drilling and checking heads and has found at least some crap in more than half of them, also a random head that was put on my stagea had also had it's oil galleries drilled out for cleaning previously.....be warned....