Duncan

meh, I've got the generic/link version in the stagea, and it is good to be able to see what is happening without a laptop all the time. Still a bit limited, but better than nothin almost as good as a PowerFC controller from the 90s, without the tuning ability.

Unfortunately a head gasket can fail between coolant and oil without breaching the combustion chamber.

I know it's getting off track, but I mean the circlip groove holds up a threaded sleeve to adjust the spring seat height. Not a great pic but you can kind of see the setup

You need to put the car on a hoist, remove the rear springs, set up strings for a wheel alignment, then check the toe out at full droop, full compression and a couple of spots in between. Adjust the length of the front upper arm until the change in toe is minimal throughout the range. It is such a pain that most people won't do it, and the correct length will vary from car to car due to slight differences and different camber. I'm pretty sure GTSBoy posted up the procedure years ago. It's been done for my race car but the suspension shop did it for me.

The R on the block is meant to be added when the original block is replaced by a brand new one (which comes from Nissan with no engine number), so there has been a major repair to your car somewhere along the way

Yep....but it is so much better than not being able to have it at all. If someone wants to start 3d printing them I'll take 3

properly adjusted front upper links at the rear can help with that bump steer too, adjustable arms are often installed there but not adjusted properly (because it takes some time)

haha that might be a little hair splity, because literally all R chassis skyline have the coil over the shock. FWIW, both my Bilstein cars have been converted to adjustable spring heights using a circlip groove machined into the shock body which supports an adjustable height spring seat

Springs can sag over time but that is less likely to be a problem, When you say you don't like the current suspension because it is hard and noisy over bumps that suggests the springs are either OK or potentially too firm. The shocks are more likely to give you a firm feel (where you go into a bump or depression and it feels like you have no suspension at all), particularly if one or more is seized up The Bilsteins I have in the Stagea are custom valved to be pretty firm because I was towing heaving loads (2500kg) at the time, and they have whiteline springs to match. They have been on there for about 200,000klm and have been rebuilt by Bilstein in between, they would probably be due again some time. The custom setup I have is not readily available any more as the guy who was doing it has moved on. I run the same shock with different valving in the rally/race car which I also find excellent (relatively soft due to the roads we rally on) You need to start with what you want from the car and then get something to suit that. I think it might have been another thread where you were recommended to talk to MCA or shockworks; I've never dealt with either except one race on MCA golds, but both have an excellent reputation for knowing what they are talking about rather than just selling x thousand units from china.

Yeah I agree, those pre-tuned ECUs from the 80s and 90s are a pretty dangerous thing, a bit like the flash tunes many modern cars allow. They assume everything in your 30 year old car is working perfectly and remove most of the safety margin that nissan built in to give you a couple of % more power. Since the ECU didn't control boost they can't make a major difference like you can get in a flash tune for a modern turbo car, eg a diesel ute I've got uprevs in both my N/A Titan and Fuga and can't feel any difference in the power delivered, and in both cases they are a bit safer because there are wide band o2 sensors from factory to do some adjustment if there are fuel delivery issues.

Hahah it's all good, I'll drop by and pick it up next time I'm stateside. In the Stagea all that is long gone and I don't run a BOV, but in the GTR race car I have to retain standard everything intake wise, including the standard BOVs, recirc pipe, inlet piping etc etc. Unfortunately the BOV recirc pipe is the lowest point at the front of the car so I've destroyed a few over the years (and they ain't making any more, unless nismo heritage is listening :))

Yep, it is not designed for silicone / rtv etc, that is why I suggested making a gasket and adding a sealant as you've had trouble in the past. I meant stuff like this which you apply to a paper gasket: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant-16-oz/ I'm not a sealant specialist but I understand locktite 515 and equivalent products might be a more modern option which replace a paper gasket https://www.blackwoods.com.au/adhesives-sealants-fillers/thread-sealants-and-threadlockers/henkel-loctite-515-flange-sealants/master-gasket-flex-loctite-515-300ml/p/05894512

I think all the questions got answered except the recondition bit Shocks tend to fail by: leaking past seals loosing pressure / going wallowy siezing As you're in the US you would surely be able to find the Ohlins rep in country who can organise to rebuild them to original spec; which was probably pretty good. They are a top 25% quality damper, not cheap crap

Right, that makes sense. Yes you can just remove the line from the actuator instead of removing the whole actuator. That has the downside of losing your boot ATTESSA fluid and having to rebleed (unless you can block it some how) but the benefit you've found of not stuffing with the actuator gasket. I can't find anything in the manual about Actuator re-assembly, so I'd make a gasket from paper and add some of that dark brown gasket harder stuff, then re-assemble. If there is an old gasket stuck to the actuator flange, definitely remove that

I believe 3.4 strokers requires the rb30 block height, and may also require clearancing in the block too.

Keep in mind a bad connection (either ground or power) would give exactly the same symptoms. I guess swapping the spare is an easy test.

Yeah I used to run a set of those on the race car before I moved to Bilstein/Eibach springs. I think they were pretty common out of Japan back in the day. The springs probably don't have markings but they are likely to be firmer than you might want, the shocks are probably old and crap by now, and I it looks like the strut tops have pillow ball / ball joints not bushes which are very likely to make knocking noises as they age. I saw you had another thread as well. You have the option to recondition the Ohlins but the most likely source of a noise is the strut tops which are not always included in new shocks.

Yeah the line into the back of the transfer case is for the ATTESSA actuation, it is fed from the reservoir in the boot. It is unlikely to be coming from the transfer case itself (same fluid but separate areas) and won't be gearbox fluid back there. There are 2 common leak points: 1. Where the actuator connects to the transfer case, it is a flange with 2 bolts (from memory) and a gasket. This could leak, if so remove the actuator, replace the gasket, tighten to spec and it should be fine. 2. More common the threaded fitting and angled seat is leaking. Sounds like you have been undoing the line there so that is most likely the issue, I'd remove it again, clean both the threads and actuator with brake clean then retighten. No point adding thread tape / teflon sealer there as the sealing is in the flange not the thread. 90% I'd guess it is #2, and an easy fix. You might have to bleed the ATTESSA afterwards.

So, your Blitz blow off valves release air to atmosphere (you can see the trumpet shape) who maximum duck noises. If you are happy with the how the car runs then no need to change anything, but they can cause stalling when returning to idle for example because air that went past the AFM never makes it to the engine. Same goes, if there is nothing wrong with how it runs you could leave the BOV return in place and taped off, but I think it is trouble (or future trouble). The correct way to cap it off is a proper rubber or silicone cap with a hose clamp right back where it joins the intake and remove everything else. Correct, the factory BOVs have outlets that connect to that pipe and send air back to the inlet when they pop open, so no metered air is lost. Again, in the factory setup the cam cover breathers are connected to the inlet near the airbox. As the engine gets tired it will breathe more and more oil back into the intake, which is meant to be sucked into the engine and burned. In practice, over the years, some will collect at the low points in the intake and your BOV is one of those points. Since it looks like your front bar might be off, it would be worth disconnecting at least one side of the lowest intercooler pipes and seeing how much oil has pooled there

So Dose is right, please send it over, I'd love one that hadn't had a coming together with the australian bush. Duct tape can't be holding boost pressure so there is more to this story. Is the last pic you took on the right (BOV) or left side of the car looking forward? The left side of the pipe joins into the intake under the airbox standard, I think it is probably capped there too other wise that tape would be blown out.

Yeah I'm selling that shortly (once I get it boxed for postage). I've had it in the stagea for about 15 years but since I recently moved to Android/Realdash form the Link via CAN it is not needed any more I think it is pretty impressive considering mid 90s electronics. It taps into ecu wires for RPM, speed, injector duty etc then displays values based on DIP switches. I had it set up for RB but it covers about 20 models from the era.

lol, I've snapped a cam, but it did take a special oil problem (workshop removed the strainer on the oil pump AND broke the head off an internal bolt overtightening it, you'd never guess where it ended up)

well there you go. I always thought the throttle was an on/off switch

S1 stagea has the larger bolt holes in the upright, so that should be fine. Other than potential bolt hole stuff and triming dust backing plate, I understood all S and R (and z32) are bolt on/interchangeable. It's only when they went z33 onwards that the offset was changed so that needs a specific bracket for Z33+ on R.

....I understand the upsides, but most people would consider waiting 12 minutes to drive the car after starting it to be a drawback for daily driving....