Duncan

No, it has rods and pistons and a GTW3884R. All the best with your build

Looks like a big job. How did you go with clearance for steering rack and anything else down there?

perfect

Yes, but to be fair it didn't move far, you can see the cap of the reservoir in that pic too.

well, I can see"...a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out...." so ABS it is

This is the high mount exhaust manifold in my Stagea. The ABS is behind the heatshielding in the top right. I have absolutely no idea how any high mount manifold could ever foul the ABS, but regardless choosing the ABS version would be both most likely correct , and least likely to have any fouling issue. If you can't get a pic of your engine bay and in doubt, ask them if the ABS version would be a problem in a non-ABS car (and why)

Not a lot of information in that question. Can't see how any manifold on the car affects ABS, even a high mount exhaust manifold is miles away from it. Anyway, ABS is a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out. If you don't know what it looks like, a pic of your engine bay would help. I've never heard of a Stagea without ABS

If you can have the car off the road and have space to work on it, taking the dash out is not such a big deal. Just take it slowly, label what you disconnect and it is pretty straightforward.

hopefully the tank is pretty empty....pull fuel pump fuse, crank until it does not run any more, remove fuel lines from fuel pump cradle lid, unplug pump and sender wire, take the lid off, check that the sender arm is connected properly to the cradle. If so, use a multimeter to check continuity between the sender scale and the plug on the top of the hat. If that is OK, pull the dash, find the wire for fuel level and check it has continuity with the wire that plugs to the top of the cradle

awesome, thanks for the quick response and I'd appreciate the tailshaft check too when you get a chance. that way I can do my bit to keep a hectic drifter a on track somehwere

I recently picked up some spares for the GTR. Or at least, I was told everything I was getting was from a GTR which during the conversation turned into "oh yeah that might be from the silvia...or the ae86...". Anyway, I know the pair of rear driveshafts on the left are GTR (although the lengths are a little different to my spares, I think that is just slack in the CV), but what are the pair on the right? They are similar length but 2x3 bolt instead of 6x1 bolt, and have a very different flange at the diff end (pointed not flat). Diameter is 28mm vs 30mm for the GTR ones Also, this random 2 piece drive shaft was also included....can anyone identify, perhaps silvia or AE86 or possibly early evo? Length from flange to end of gearbox shaft is approx 1330mm Any ideas?

Awesome project, we definitely need more detail and updates Given it is a DE not a DD, you should look into Uprev as they can remove NATS from the ECU. It also makes the ECU tunable which might be important depending on how it responds to breathing a bit better than factory (the DD went pretty rich at full throttle from just a cat back exhaust)

Is this the VR30DDTT? Be good to see some info on them, that is the new z motor too.

I just posted up a thread about my AN turbo water feed melting in a high mount setup. Metal lines will never have that issue Factory lines are excellent and well routed, but you should source new ones instead or re-using old if possible. In particular, the oil feed to the rear turbo does a couple of loops to keep the same length as the front line, and any type of crud in there greatly increases the likelihood of rear turbo failure

big hammer at 3mm not impossible though Depending on the size of the bracket, 3mm angle iron can be very helpful

I believe they are m5 on the coil pack cover, and from memory they may be m5 on the timing cover as well. However, the timing cover might be a specific bolt with a wider shank where it goes through the rubber bushes. m5 is almost certainly 0.8 pitch (coarse) for length, unless someone knows and assuming you can't measure the depth of the hole with a set of calipers, just buy a bunch of 20mm bolts, put them in carefully and if they tighten up/bottom out before the head tightens down just shorten them with a hacksaw. You want at least as much thread engaged as the diameter of the bolt, ie 5mm. You should also consider what head you want on the bolts - hex for a spanner/socket, inhex for an allen key, and flat under the head vs countersunk.

very interesting service. I wonder how/if they balance it afterwards as the new flange is not symetrical

So, I'm assuming you have a v37 skyline and OP was talking about m35 stagea. I don't know specifics for either. The uprev site says So. assuming it is correct, you'd hit ebay/yahoo japan etc and search for your car's model code and "cruise control button" or "steering wheel" if they are one part. Something like this: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h551134787 However, I have no idea if there is some incompatibility you need to consider specific to your model, and in the case of v37 it looks like you probably need a radar cruise control unit for the front bumper as well. If you want this for uprev maps, I'd simply suggest contacting them as they will have first hand experience or know someone who does. If you are looking for factory cruise when you don't have it, I guess that will be a bit of a learning curve

yeah according to uprev that is an issue if you don't have it (I assumed everything would....) they recommend adding cruise control buttons from another model of the same car, as most have the wiring in place. but like I said above, I've only ever changed maps to test that I could, I'm not sure of the day to day value?

yes, standard turbos rebuilt with steel wheels in the same size and same/similar boost will be the cheapest way to get going again....no tune issues that way. Plus, rebuild is cheaper than all new turbs as no other fittings/exhaust/etc changes are required

Auto support is uncommon in aftermarket. I can't see why uprev wouldn't do everything you need. I have 2 uprev-ed cars (Titan and Fuga) and have only ever used the primary tuned maps (the others are intended to cover fuel economy over performance, valet mode, standard, towing but to me it's a bit of a gimmick). If you need a display, there are various options for ODB readers, I use Greedy Informeter.

Out of interest, why do you want an stand alone ECU. Uprev will allow you to load up to 5 tunable maps into the factory ECU. If not, it is likely any good aftermarket ECU can be wired in. I'm not sure on the motor or it's needs in that car but I guess it will need to support twin e throttles, quad fully variable cam timing but otherwise pretty nothing tricky. You also need to consider transmission control if it is auto

I mean, grab a pry bar or even just the biggest screwdriver you have that you don't care too much about, lever it between the bush and something solid, then give the end of the bar a firm push (perhaps even a whack with a hammer)

looks like you haven't hit the thread underneath, so no issue there. you should still try to get a pry bar behind it to shock it off, and heat will help. You only need to break the seal then it will come out reasonably easy

thanks for the pic, I think hard lines are the right choice to do a high mount properly, I'll go that way if these new lines have trouble, and I wish they had been done as hard lines in the first place....the oil drain is a hard line until it clears the manifold which was a good choice. did you have a bender for the lines? nissan engineers put hard lines there in the first place, then we make the whole area much hotter by bigger turbos and twice or more factory power but put rubber or plastic lines on it?