djvoodoo

Thanks man :-) Equal length front pipes.... mmmmmmmmmm sound is just amazing when on song.

What colour? If it was black thats mine

I believe NRMA will do random 'audits' and get the KM history from the RTA. Not that hard to find out... Pink Slip station writes down the ODO each year. Different if you 'swap' out ODO's, but how many times can you get away with that lol

Top rad hose feels and sounds like a kettle boiling after 2 mins of engine shut off. The temp gauge on the MFD gets to about 105, and the temp gauge on the Power FC gets to 102 (middle of motor sensor??) Engine has a top bill of health, nill oil leaks, nill water leaks 145-147 compression on all 6 cylinders (ODO 122,000k's)

Cap is a brand new Nismo 1.3 bar item Cooling system was flushed and checked by an RB26 expert. Absolutely no air locks near the head, Have also used the bleed screw ontop of the head myself. Brand new water pump was done 7.5K ago with timing belt etc. Does not loose any coolant whatsoever. Overflow is marked at full when cold, all day everyday Issue only shows itself when the turbos stop spinning and water pump is off. Can here coolant bubbling in top hose that connects to Thermo housing.

Do want.. If only i could afford :-(

I'm no engineer, so may be completely way off.. But i always find when turning the car off, after a few mins my temps reach 105 degrees, and I can here and feel boiling on the top radiator pipe. Have not lost any coolant whatsoever since last coolant change 7.5K ago. Is this thermosyphoning properties? Once the turbos stop spinning the water goes back to the head and hits the temp sensor on the thermo side, therfor creating a "false" overheating??

I also have one of those Unidens. It's ok, but it has some problems. Have it on your windscreen on a hot day and the internal temp sensor turns off the device after 30 mins or so.... Experienced it first hand on a 30 degree day. Camera didn't turn back on until I got home and the car was in the garage. Also the loop recording isn't so great. I have a 16GB Sd card which lasts for about 3.5 hours. Once it starts loop recording I have found the clips lose date/time and they go missing

I believe another reason would be - Stale fuel. From port to port can take 2-3 weeks, even months. Why have a full tank of gas that would then need to be dropped anyway once at compliance.

My mate in 2012 bought brand new 86. 6 months later, the dash had already bubbled up..... Had to take it back to Toyota to get a new dash under warranty. Having been inside the 86, it's really not that impressive. Cheap plastic and barley any room. Such a tiny car.

Terry???

Haven't checked mechanical cam timing yet, but will look at that after NYE. EBC was installed at the same time as the turbos. It was reset and tuned from there. I have played with the gain (offset), and have found a sweet spot 113% offset. Any more I lose response... However, I shouldn't need to use the offset function tbh. I turned off the controller this morning, on wastegate pressure, boosted to 9psi. Might add a few mm of preload to the actuators to get closer to 11psi which i think is the rated spring pressure for -7 turbos. I know that they will be laggier than stock, but they shouldn't be this laggy

Standard 34R dumps, which should flow more than enough

Post to the top!! I have -7's on an otherwise stock motor, running a HKS EVC 6 - not the colour version. As with many others, I was under the impression that boost would be very close to stock. As you can see in the dyno graph, boost builds very slowly (i reach peak boost 17psi at around 4800-5000 rpm) I'll be going back to the tuners in Jan for cam gears, larger injectors and a retune, but wondering if winding in more actuator pre-load could help. Will be turning the boost controller off and seeing what boost i reach running off actuator pressure tomorrow. I have no idea if the previous mechanics checked actuator preload before fitting them..... Anyway, that's my story.. cool story bro

^^^^^ Best first post evarrrr spam spam spam

Thanks :-) Yep sure is a genuine Vspec, another fine example of Iron Chef's handy work, imported just under 2 years ago now.

White 32R in Menai shopping village. Had a brief chat and off we went :-)

Interested. What model R did this come off? Can't PM you, your mailbox must be full

I'm not disagreeing with you, I simply put up a variable that no-one had yet commented on in this thread. You are right, less density in air doesn't always equate to leaning out, and i never said that in my post, but higher air temps can/will and have shown to increase overall engine temp, including combustion temps, therfore aiding in the cause of knock (tune or no tune)

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

How about the simple things like, for example, The weather. It is summer now. It's humid, hotter and the air is less dense

How about you take the time to be descriptive about the car, put some photos up as well as your contact details that way an interested buyer would actually attempt to contact you............

I was scared the same thing could have happened to me when i imported the 34R. First thing i did even before the car landed on the docks was get insurance and have it in writing that it would be covered at the docks on arrival. All i had to do was provide the VIN, date of landing, show evidence with photos of the car, vessel name etc.

Sounds like it's going into limp mode. U sure there isn't any water that's made it's way into the electrics/intake/AFM's due to the rain etc?

99 R34 GTR Vspec 284.4rwkw. Unopened motor -7's Power FC 17psi HKS EVC 6 Metal Cat & 3.5 inch Apexi N1 exhaust Cam gears, Sard 700cc injectors, 19psi and a retune to come in early 2015. Hoping to hit the magic 300 kw mark