Bronx

sounds nice. hope to see the outcome mate

if your tuner is talking about back pressure for a turbo car, he is still dead wrong, back pressure is for a 2 stroke engine, it has been proven heaps of times that a higher revving car does not need the back pressure. exhaust and manifold sizes affect whether you have low, mid or high range power, and im 200% sure you dont want the low to mid power range, so bigger is better. but from your setup, depending on what turbo you are running, for a 3l engine@8krpm, i would suggest the following: 200-400kw 3", 400-600kw 3.5", 600-???kw 4". (you might get slight different power with whatever exhaust you choose depending on the tune) however, you can always factor in that from where your converter sits, the heat will cool down dramatically, so from there on it suits a larger size than the dump.

i hear you wanted to write the council a letter haha. but seriously, i would report it. on another serious note, on the way back from work, i just found out that another pothole is forming in one of the lanes. THE SAME KIND THAT KILLED MY SUBFRAME!!!! So i will be reporting it tomorrow. i can already see all the scrape marks on the top of the bloody Potbulge

the skyline ceptors are ford territory rims. people have been using the ford steelies for years to drift, look decent and cost little to nothing

like stated, need power window motor for stagea. should be the same as r33/34 if anyone has a motor with or without frame spare let me know.

why would it become laggier? the easier the flow the better, it will give you lots of top end room. is it necessary? depends, is your engine running 12k rpm? how much boost? total displacement? how do your extractors flow so on and on. generally on a 3l engine a 4" exhaust helps quite a bit upwards of 7krpm. thing is, nowhere near street legal.

people run the ford territory steelies, forgot the name, but they fit really well apparently. really cheap too, 2nd hand like 40 bucks each. 17x7.5

holy shhhhhh! thats harsh. we can make this a pothole and road hazards thread now. is it on a road or a driveway???

From factory, the exhaust sits at 130mm, that give you no room to play with. When I first lowered my car, it had about 10-20mm from floor to exhaust. To get it to a decent height looks wise you will clear around 80-90mm. But! In germany they calculate by chassi height, not accessories like exhaust. Does the same go here?

hey krypt, unfortunately i didnt see your post earlier, i would have gladly sent you some pics and how to's. but i am assuming you have already fixed it. sorry mate UPDATE!!!! Finally got through to the RMS, sending more and more pictures and writing them back some slightly angry letters at how upset i was and it is their liability to make roads safe etc etc. Turns out that other people contacted me a 2-3months after this happened stating the same thing happened to their car. They also sent damage pictures and filed complaint which did help me back up my case. SOOOOOOOOO, finally today, i receive a cheque in the mail today for a bit over $1k, while it is still a decent amount of cash, it is close to nothing compared to what i have spent on fixing the car, it being off road, rego running out etc etc. getting a new rack, powdercoating it, installing it, alignment, blueslip not having a car to drive for 6 months, etc cost me way over the $1k mark. I do feel lucky though that at least i got some form of reimbursement out of it. Now i would like to say a BIIIIIIIIIIGGGGG Thank you! to all the people here who have given me advice and helped me out with this major problem. I would like to say yet again, keep up the great work and you are the reason why this forum is still alive. and if i do ever meet you guys outside the computer screen, beers on me

120 was for clean, the boots and replacement, boots were 20 each and 40 to fit them

34gtr box onto the stagea, need custom rear half shaft, and different clutch too, r34gtr clutches are different to any other RB clutches due to the thicker input shaft. very expensive game, one of the mechanics i know has a r34 gtr box for sale, for $3k'ish

i paid a total of 120 bucks to get all 4 fronts changed. i just gave him my 2 front shafts

not to be a hijacker, but my parents are younger than me

from memory all N/a cars come stock with no LSD, some factory upgraded ones came with LSD. But dont quote me on that. so if you jack your car up and turn the right wheel clockwise, the other side turns in the opposite direction???? that means its a standard lsd if both turn in the same direction, it means its has a LSD LSD= both wheels lock up under a certain amount of accelerated pressure Stock= one will light up at a time, unless you are on a pretty even surface and going straight, it can light up both wheels if lucky. SOME S2 GTST's came equipped with a ALSD's but very few, i dont think any S1 came with it tho

just a question, how much did the blueslip cost you???? i got quoted 130 bucks for a blue slip as it is an import...... i just got my girlfriends audi quattro done and that only cost 57 bucks.. why is the import more expensive?

r34 neo are top feed, r33 is side feed. dont know standard r32, but i think top feed low impadence. r32/33/34 are top feed low impadence. if your throwing in some 650cc, make sure you get a tune done while your at it

from memory the s15 wheel fits, has the same splines, but i dont remember if you needed to use the stagea airbag unit or not. if you dont care for airbag, just buy a boss kit with airbag "deleter" and install aftermarket wheel

i think he is saying that he has a cedric with a carby engine in it and wants to convert to neo rb25, he wants to start the engine to see if it works before he installs it in the car. makes sense? IF that is the case, just hook up your wiring loom to the sensors, throw on a starter motor, and connect the right terminals to the battery. i dont have a wiring setup on me, but there is bound to be someone on here who has the ecu pinout

boost cut my good man, had the exact same problem, till i went to power fc. for me boost cut hit at 14.3psi no matter what gear i was in, just cut and the boost dropped, then kicked back in in later revs about 5K+ onwards. not a FMIC or exhaust problem.

he seems to live in kellyville, other side of sydney, would gladly go past his house and knock on the front door but the 2hr drive isnt worth it i guess.....

no bottom end is same as any other rb 25, only diff is the piston heads, they will not work with a non-neo head. also the neo engine uses rb26 rods, which do hold more power.

hahahaha PM me your details and ill sort it out with you. Also, are these slightly stiffer than standard ones?

haha, nah, my subframe had a bit of a run-in with a pothole... so im getting it fixed. i dont think it will get much louder any time soon. when i upgrade to twin turbo kit, then ill go with a 3.5" or 4" exhaust........ cause i can. the s2000's sound shitty. ive never been a fan of the s2000 sound. sounded very dull.. the r32 needs the muffler taken out, or hotdog. its too quiet sounds nice tho

soon, soon. my car is in the garage for repairs. so hopefully ill get some more vids up soon