blue_vl_t

Are you ceramic coating the dumps and wrapping them? I know in my case, HPI dumps, the clearance is fark nothing with -5's.

The rear turbo in particular is the main issue, as the snout of the turbo is basically hard against the dump pipe, and no silicone hose will last there longer that 5 minutes

if its not making huge power like 500kw, the stock lines will be fine with E85

So people have only had issues with the bosch variants? if thats the case ID injectors seem the go.

It will be interesting to see more results, I've only ever come across the spool s15 dyno graph. It's a good thing. Is there any other 3.4L results you guy know of? I like the idea of the 3.4, considering its really the same cost as going 2.8 from a rb26, obviously exept the mods to fit an rb 30 in your car. What rpm are you looking to turn this to?

T88 with a stock bottom end! it would be interesting to know how much boost it was running, really the stock 26 engine is quite a tuff bit of gear hey.

I fact with a 26/30 and I'm assuming an aftermarket exhaust, I'm surprised it's still installed. As nismoid said, unplug it from the loom, it's there to protect the stock cat convertor. Not needed

ahh, the pain of modifying cars, its all worth it in the end though Matter of interest, why did you not use the other r32 gtst you bought and save you swapping so much over, or was it not able to be registered?

ahhhh, no

I'm running 17x 9.5 +15 rims with 255 45 17 tyres, not rolled guards or anything. These fit no worries on r32gtr I'd say if you can run a 255 tyre you should be ok.

Really? So without a bend on the front of the turbo the afm wasn't functioning properly? Sounds odd.

The stands you are using are fine, yes you can buy better ones. But jacking the car up straight and having the car on a level surface as well as where you put the stands is more important. If there is not sideways pressure on the car I really cannot see it going anywhere. BUT if you don't like them or think they are unsafe, spend the proper. $$ for a better design. Your the one who has to crawl under there. A good spot I have always used to put jack stands is on the pivot point of the caster arms. They have a large round end that the stands sit onto nicely. They are also quite far out giving good stability.

so your going the 2.7 stroker, that is still the only one they make for the 26 isn't it? Epic power will result, i really think you are being a little modest looking to make 500kw with an SPL, when that is achievable with the KAI. Great looking 32 you have

what brand are the cam gears, ebay or not?

yep, by braking form 110 kmh the front will get noisier while your slowing down

Sounds like it, another thing you can do is drop the diff oil, give it a change, so you can inspect the oil. If there is something wrong the oil will be dark and shiny. Sounds like you have found it though.

Checked the lines tonight, one straight from under the plenum to the solenoid and the other comes from the actuators around the back of the motor in the hard lines to the solenoid, there is one "T" in the hard line which i have blocked off. So the lines seem fine. I do have the solenoid mounted where the stock solenoid use to live on the drivers side, perhaps it need to be closer to the turbos? Its a bit shit to have to move it now as i have run the cables in the guards and all. Also i figure its best for it as it will get hotter on the passenger side of the engine bay, thats if i can find anywhere it will fit........ Lets say i looked into getting some different actuators anyway, where have people bought theirs from, I can only really find actuators that are 1 bar or a HD HKS ones, Can 18 or 19 or 20 psi actuators be bought off the shelf?

I second the 3rd set of wheels looking the best. Care to explain some of the curent problems you are having with the rb25 ? good move pissing the 20 off, much better off with the extra cubes anyway

Turn hard to the left then the right with a bit of speed, if its a wheel bearing it will get louder as you load it up by throwing all the cars weight to that side. Thats a good start, i have definatley rectified wheel bearing issues this way, mostly front ones though, its probably herder to load up the rear.

Good to hear, im not the only one then, yours sounds like it does something similar. I adjusted the wastegates to have a bit of preload, looked it up on sau, they have been like it for the past year. So you get 19psi out of the stock actuators just with more preload? More preload means the wastegate flap cannot open as far, so giving worse control over boost pressure too yea??

The unit only has 2 ports, one marked 'in' and one marked 'out' Not sure where the air is bleeding out, there is not another port or hole. Bit strange really. When I have the boost set a bit lower I can hear the valve fluttering and doing its thing. So it works.... Kinda. Lol

No, just drain it and fill it up. As you mentioned earlier, bleeding is done with the pressure line and tank in the boot etc.

I just went out for another drive, set to 0 (zero) boost is .93 bar, spot on each time. Which I'll assume is wastegate pressure. Turning the controller up 10% at at time, 10, 20, 30, 40 about when I get to 47 the boost changes to .95bar. And I continued tonight to set it to 100 (max) and I have 1.32 bar. Checked lines under the bonnet. It really is piss easy, 'in' is where the manifold pressure goes, it's connected to the plenum b4 the throttle body's. 'out' goes to the two internal gates on the turbos actuators. Any help appreciated.......

Another user of Castrol Transmax Z here, no problems. You should be able to get it at most places, Repco, Super cheap etc. If i can by it in Kalgoorlie, you most definatly should find it in Sydney

cool, i'll check that