chook

http://www.autoxtreme.com.au/catalogue/lis...idProduct=10251 http://www.autoxtreme.com.au/catalogue/lis...idProduct=10207 fitted this one myself, although I wouldnt recommend fitting yourself unless you know what youre doing. the steering wheel IR controls fits nicely onto the S2 wheel and looks factory.

I just replaced my box, bought a 2nd hand one, lower km's than mine, Stage 1 shift kit, torque converter rebuilt, bands adjusted, total exercise around $1500. Feels like new.

The bars are very solid and heavy, 60kg is nothing spread over both bars, considering there are 6 mounting points. I would have no hesitation putting 2-3 times this on the roof.

its not under much tension with wheels off the ground, no need to worry there

It is common for compliance shops to change the side mirror glass to flat from the wide angled Jap ones, so some of you 'cold area' cars won't have them anymore.

also heats up side mirrors.

try about 8 posts back...

OK, ive had enough of trying to work this out for myself. Basically my temp gauge gets to a certain point, around 1/2 (70 deg), then stops. Ive done bench tests, heating up oil, and at around 150 deg it jumps up to H. When cooling though it comes down at a uniform rate. Ive tried new sender, 2nd cluster set, run earth wires to sender, bypassed sender wire and run own wire to cluster. I am starting to think that it's a cluster problem (temp sender wire passes through some electronics in cluster before going to gauge) that happens after a certain time, maybe it is common but people don't realise because their gauge always sits at normal. I only found out because I have to heat up coolant to set my thermofan computer, my ECUTALK display (coolant sensor) increase in temp yet gauge doesnt.

the Greddy is a nice simple design, perhaps ask JIN MAN if he can still source them. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3964685 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=greddy

go to kinokuniya bookshop in george St Sydney, seen them there, or they can order them in.

here are some pics of my install that may help. not much difference between 32 and 34 hoses, ends are same, both will fit S2.

rears are simple, as I mentioned before, just a slight cut away of the backing plate with an angle grinder, handbrake setup is same.

no options

options: big rear brake super fine hard coat advanced aero system rear fog lamp multi display meter rear wiper

After checking, they are GOODRIDGE R32 GTR stainless/teflon brake hoses. You will also need the hard brake line from the caliper to the hose, R33 or R34 should do. And a few small hose mounting mods.

no change with the offset, but standard 16" S2 wheels give about 2mm clearance to the front gtt calipers, so have to be careful when placing balance weights.

correct, bolt on, put R34 gtt front and backs on mine, only mods is cut a little out of rear backing plate for the caliper and also had to replace F and R hoses, I used R33 GTR hoses I think.

Confirming: Meet at Milton Maccas from 10am, depart around 10:30am 33.4km drive to WESTRIDGE OUTLOOK carpark (may have to play it by ear if carpark is full)(POI in GARMIN GPS's) then 58km to the dam picnic area. BYO food. drink and togs. There are not many places to regroup following all the traffic lights on Waterworks road, just have to do our best to stay together until we reach the carpark meeting point. My phone is 0402118700. Simon

Any Nissan matic-D rated fluid for Auto, one of best being CASTROL TRANSMAX Z, but up around $20 a litre. LSD fluid depends on what type of LSD you have, plenty of info if you do a search. cheers

I found the easiest way is to drill your own hole where you want and use a grommet.

got a fujitsubo legalis R bolt-on, most jap manufactuers make S2 bolt ons

Yep, 34 GTR is 48520-23u25, which is same part as my RSfour tie rod end. All other R34s (including 4wd models) use -15U25 part.

Are you saying yours has no screen fitted ? If so, I would imagine that yours has a completely different wiring harness, probably possible with enough time and money, but probably best to go aftermarket. Im sure Chris will give you a definitive answer soon.

3 different tie rods outers for Stageas, depending on model, year, 4wd/2wd, MT/AT etc 48520-0cu25(2wd) 48520-15u25(4wd) 48520-23u25(4wd) 2 different for R33, both are same part # as 2 of the 3 Stagea tie rods. 48520-15u25(2wd) 48520-23u25(4wd) best to ensure you are getting right part for your car. pm me your vin and ill let you know.

pm sent