hardsteppa

so have finally finished putting the box back together, but now it's all assembled and housings are back on, I have an issue where it's locked in 4th gear constantly and will only turn by hand in 4th or neutral, but the whole shaft turns in neutral, not just one end. It selects all gears fine but won't turn in any other gear. Before I put the housings back on I confirmed all gears select and shift as they should and all turn accordingly with the gear selected, but once the front housing is back on, it locks up. I stripped it back down to make sure hadn't made any error in reassembly and the syncros bearings etc all sitting as they should, and everything was fine but as soon as the front housing went back on, it locks up again. I haven't filled it with any fluid yet so I'm thinking maybe is there too much friction on the 4th syncro when it's dry? (although I did put a little grease on it on it when reassembling for the 2nd time, hasn't made any difference). This box was a 2nd-hander off gumtree so I never actually used it myself to know of any issue with it prior. At a standstill with it now so, ideas are welcome.

yeah mate Hypergear do the best hiflow out there which is a great first upgrade and will get you real choice power bro. Hey I just remembered, I will have one for sale in about 4 weeks once my new turbo arrives. You will prob need to upgrade the coilpacks too though if you haven't already but don't worry I have a set of series 2 splitfires for sale too. You will also need something to raise the boost pressure; damn that's right, I also have a Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator to go with the turbo. Wow your lucky day hey

Its easier that way i reckon, than pulling both out.

you know if that's all it takes, I wouldn't have been far off $$ wise buying that gear outright. Originally I was under the impression it also involved buying a new countershaft and input shaft too.

further to this, all parts have arrived some put in some reassembling time on the weekend. To note, the 3rd-4th coupler/slider part number 32611-AA51A does not work, and not a suitable replacement on it's own. The slider fits and slides fine across the gears, but will not accept the inserts used on the earlier 3>4 slider, only the newer style. Never mind... on a side note, anyone want to buy a new 3>4 gear coupler.

Spoiler alert..there's plastic clips that need to be jerked up, then jerked off. Angled rather than straight up and down.

Hello...search threads, and google images of the underside of spolier. I had the same query back in the day, and found the info that way.

that's somewhat fair enough, but it's best to do some research and try to help yourself first though. It's not a 'new guy' thing though, plenty of newbies on here get good help n advice. And if you drive a modified car, getting pulled off by the cops (off the road, i mean) is always a risk. Check over your car, see what mods it has, check the NCOP and see if you need to change it or get a mod plate, or run the risk and accept the consequences.

ok so it would seem the gears have the same amount of teeth, but the difference may be where on the face where the synchro sits. Older type is recessed slightly>> whereas El Nouveau, the modern styler...is a flat face, blyat however this is only from OCD googling in between bouts of Pornhub: not seen them firsthand to compare.

" loooool...you don't have ANY ideas? not even one? like putting fkn stock parts back on to clear the defect?? I know, i'm a genius, a real out of the box thinker.

on the plus side, it looks sweeeeeet. Big up the Wexford massiv.

^^^ that last guys post was awesome

Ok not the worst part of brissy. Not that far from Otaku Garage, they may be able to help, and would be qualified.

thanks for the offer - my 3rd gear's still intact/ok, it's just the dogteeth are a bit rounded, and since i'm rebuilding the box, would have been nice to throw a new one in but i'm about 10 years too late lol. So the part number for 3rd gear here that is still available for the later series boxes https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/3226112u14 - has anyone seen one of these side by side with the older gears and know what the difference is, eg dimensions, number or angle of teeth, etc?

Where in brisbane is the car mate?

thanks for the reply - just got an update from RHDJpn that the part number they gave me - 3rd gear Nissan 32261-12U04 - has been discontinued too, and this time they didn't have an alternate part number. I have been scouring the www over a week now and can't find any online seller that has the older type of 3rd gear, so might have to just put up with the one I have.

ahoy team rebuilding an rb25det gearbox at the moment. No idea what year it's from as bought it off gumtree but appears to be the older type with shonky 3rd-4th insert springs that are known to fail (I found their mashed-up corpses in the drained oil). Got most of the parts i need now but want to replace 3rd gear and the 3rd>4th coupler, however bit of a snag, a stumbling block if you will...the original Nissan part number for these 2 items is long since discontinued and over a week of searching, while some good info found, hasn't given me any clear answers. RHDJapan has given me this info for the 3rd gear and coupler> However for both of those new part numbers, i have read that they're not a direct-fit and need a spacer, new syncro hub and possibly other bits to make it work with the older gearboxes. Has anyone seen them, used them, or seen and used them, and know if they will work with the older boxes or not...?

Great LSD; good price on this dudes.

Stickers mate...LOT of stickers

also i find with anything like this, searching google images helps, so you can see all the bits/connection points.

if it's anything like the r33 gtst - which it probably is - go in from the bottom, remove starter motor, and you will have plenty of room to get the rear plug. I only replaced the plugs, didn't pull apart the harness, but I believe the KNK sensors and fast idle are on their own loom, just taped together with the gearbox/alternator loom, so you either need to remove it as a whole, or try cut it apart with on car - removed the whole thing, and will almost certainly be easier for you. The joined harness assembly will possibly be connected to the 3x gearbox connections, the alternator, the enginebay fusebox x2 points, the fast-idle, and knock sensors.....or possibly it will have other points too, can't remember, but that's the starting point. When refitting the starter, ditch the top bolt and put a stud/nut in there instead - alot easier to get the starter on/off in future.

When mine failed, i used aluminimum tube and a bending tool to make the stock s-shape, although obviously you could bend it to pretty much however you need. Then just use short joiners of oil resistant hose to connect to the manifold and pvc end. Will last pretty much forever, and was cheap.

Maybe i have misread what yr saying, but WTF are you talking about? I have accidentally put 95 in once, when i still had the stock ecu...it did not like it one bit, and pinged. Oem tunes will not take running shit fuel just because 'its oem'.

I find rsrr to be very decent in the wet..although that doesn't seem to be the general opinion from what i've read. But yeah no probs with them

Clipped on i believe...LOT of plastic clips on there, once screws at each end have been removed.