hardsteppa

I have done a little bit of aero work on the r33 gtst. - I use an ebay BeeR knockoff wing in carbon fibre (coating only, i'm sure). it was just under 800 shipped from China, reasonably quickly. Quality was good for the price, no issues with it. At 100k+, you feel the front of the car getting lighter with more downforce coming into effect on the rear. I put it on the lower-angle setting, as the higher one was too much drag...so yes, definitely do something, although the only benchmark I have is the stock gtst wing, and the r33 gtr stock wing. There were 2 widths available, and mine was the smaller - it runs right to the edge of the rear quarters/body outline...although looks wider in the pic. - I also use an ebay carbon fibre Top-secret style diffuser, with a few custom additions. it seemed to give a little more planted feel to the rear when cornering at speed, but I now have a full-length custom flat undertray, which when combined with the diffuser, IS noticeable, making the diffuser much more worthwhile/effective. The car really gets low at high speeds, and when you hit a bump in the rod, lifting the car and breaking the low-pressure area, yes it's noticeable, and occasionally a little hairy with the difference in feeling of car-control. - other items include bonnet vents, canards, front quarter vents, custom front splitter....all of which make positive differences of varying degrees. The front undertray and bonnet ducts made a massive difference to cooling, with it holding a very stable 70-80 degrees at all times other than long idle. I believe I am keeping an impartial view to it - for example, I experimented with a divider panel leading air out in front of the rear wheels (r35 gtr feature small ones) but found it made the rear unstable and skittish, so binned them. Couple of old pics - there have been a few little changes since these.

If you can find a decent auto, i say go for it. Mine was auto and i only coverted to manual 'cos it was time' but i see nothing wrong with going that way - as you say, can be a huge price difference when buying the car in the first place. My conversion kit was 1750aud and i wouldnt have spent anymore than that. By the time you buy a decent new clutch kit, 1piece clutch line, new cylinders etc, better off just getting tailshaft, box and pedals unless you get a cheap full conversion kit.

I'm all for the death penalty for car thieves. Don't steal a car, and it won't be a concern for you.

have a Cooling Pro/justjap front mount intercooler kit for sale, black stealth edition. To fit R33/R34 gtst. Return pipe has been thermowrapped for maxxxximum efficiencies. Has general marking/scuffing from normal use but all 100% intact working. Laughs at the pissweak attempts of the stock SMIC; this will have you running much better. $120; pickup in Brisbane or can discuss postage to anywhere in Oz.

Ahahaha!

After only a month? Where are you parking the car, an abandoned grain silo in eastern europe???

There's no way you would ask the cop, of course he would say its valid. Its fact, police do make mistakes and issue notices in error so worthwhile to push further and seek legal advice if you believe this is the issue.

I run around 2.75 deg neg front camber on a daily driven street car, and i have very little issue with inside tyre wear. Toe, worn components or bent arms/chassis are likely to be the real issue.

hey what did you end up finding on this CAL? I have a V7 and it does the same thing, goes full rich for a sec or 2 on gearchange/neutral before coming back up in the afrs. I just thought it was a maf reversion thing and hadn't thought too much of it until reading your thread.

Holy fkballs...2500 for a 3in r33 exhaust? With a shithouse split dump pipe?

Ok so you want an r34, but don't want a gtr, and need it to be p plate legal...aka, you have to get an n/a. Ferrets are also illegal for you in qld but are way cheaper than a gtr and would looook kewl trained to sit on your shoulders....get a ferret man it will be awesome. What is point of thread?

Get a gtr.

yes - you buy the JJR BELLMOUTH dump (very important - don't bother with the split type, get bellmouth. Also, JJR stainless seem to be the best made/value for money), Venom cat (as recommended, pay the few extra $$ and get 5in body, rather than skimp now and want to get bigger in a years' time), and then you just need a catback exhaust. HEAPS of Jap brands available, which are usually all just cat-back. But they all get way more pricey. I only just recently got the JJR hyperflow catback which looks to be a knockoff of the HKS, but is in full (304?) stainless rather than 409>304. Was using a Blitz NUR spec previously which I liked, but the JJR is quieter (probs cos brand new) and unleashes more torque. Very happy with it for the price.

if you want my advice - and let's face it, who wouldn't :p - you should get this http://justjap.com/jjr-stainless-3-bellmouth-front-dump-pipe-nissan-skyline-stagea.html?___store=default which leads into this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-VENOM-High-Flow-Cat-Suits-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTST-GTR-S13-C33-A31/251462134106?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR33&epid=7026943722&hash=item3a8c4fa95a:g:1i4AAOxy69JTDser&frcectupt=true and then, "cat back exhaust' is this - although, on the loud side so you might want something quieter...but then again, powerrrr http://justjap.com/jjr-hyperflow-cat-back-exhaust-system-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t.html The ceramic cats are shithouse, so rather than buying one now, then changing to a metal cat that's cheap/nasty to save $50, i recommend just get a 5in. body Venom cat that you're unlikely to ever need to upgrade.

Hi Dan you want the JJR stainless bellmouth dump pipe, which runs all the way to the cat...so eliminates the front pipe and turbo elbow, as it's all one piece. I tested the split dump pipe and JJr bellmouth-type dump pipe and found the bellmouth to be faaaaaar superior. I also recommend just buying a Venom 4 or 5in metal cat rather than any ceramic cat they usually throw in as part of a package deal.

oem is grade 9, so, not keen on that.

You didn't. Or, if you did, renounce your title asap cyka. May just be residual?

I found the Mamba ' bolt on wastegate for rb25 stock turbo" a bit of a joke, didn't even come close to fitting nicely. Anything that looked like it might reach the flapper connector was pulling the piston off on a bad angle as RB25 Detonator said. And then when trying to bend the wastegate rod, it just snapped. I ended up making a new arm out of 6mm steel rod and then welding it to the remains of the Mamba rod...as they used some weird-ass thread size rather than a standard m6 x1. Now fits perfectly and no issues with the wastegate operation, just for me, wasn't " bolt-on " as advertised. Their spring pressures seem to be way off though; I found they were consistently 2-3 psi lower that what they rated them as....which wasn't a bad thing, just meant more testing/swapping time.

further info http://www.gtrpwr.com/archive/index.php/t-1663.html verdict unclear. But OEM stud may not be a bad thing.

Agreed its fkn expensive especially when you see the shipping cos to Aus on that listing. I haven't seen anyone else list that kit, tho i imagine is nothing special, just a question of finding the right part no for those sizes?

Have read a few instances of people reporting the Nissan OEM timing bearing stud, and bolt, having broken which would be catastrophic to the engine whilst running....and you know I don't use the word catastrophic lightly, it's too much trouble to type to be thrown around willy-nilly. Have seen this listing here for an unofficial ARP timing bearing stud and bolt set https://www.boostfactory.ca/products/arp-timing-tensioner-stud-and-nut-for-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30?variant=21433604505684 but haven't seen a listing for it anywhere else at all. It seems like a good idea to me to use a hi qual fastener like ARP for these bearings especially if running stiffer valve springs, tougher more rigid timing belt etc - what do y'all reckon, overkill or good idea?

My bride knockoff passed an engineers inspection without any issue.

No worries, pm yr number if u like and will text pics. Might be handy for spares anyway- no use to me, mine is short nose and auto ratio

Hi mate...have the diff housing, crown wheel in good nic but pinion has a chipped tooth. Yours free if u want it. Pickup in brisbane

Yeah but just think about it...the holes are oversize and have some movement allowance from factory. What happens when the manifold gets hot - thermal expansion movement. And you're putting in dowels to ensure the manifold no longer has any movement? I'm all for thinking outside the box - hell i made a large box with a seat on the outside of it, just so i could sit there and think - but it doesn't sound like a good idea.