As said just take the cam covers off. The gaskets are certainly reusable. Don't need to drop a huge amount of cash on name brand cam gears, anything that looks half decent will be fine just loctite all the bolts.
As for cam colours. Just stop. Take the covers off and look at the markings on the cams, they will either tell you what they are or at least have a part number/manufacturer on them and you can find out exactly what they are.
Yep I would personally be going to a crank trigger setup. There is a group buy on here at the moment for only $350 or so + machining of the harmonic balancer.
Yes there is and they are called RD28. Apart from that all RB30 blocks are exactly the same besides a few minor things that would have no affect on block strength.
What is the actually difference between a BCP and a BK plug? Have heard the electrode is different but not sure in what way.
I have only ever run BCP's in 6 and 7 heat range on all my RB's and never once had an issue.
Read the oil control thread as GTSboy said. Search and you will find.
With the limited info you have given, leave standard ones in and fit 1.2mm and block the other.
Hi all, Just wondering if any people out there run the 32 GTR triple cluster with 46mm gauges in place? I am wanting to do this with my car but want oil temp/press and water temp. It seems only Omori and HKS make 46mm gauges, i can run speco or autometer but some period correct stuff would be nice. Any info/pics are appreciated.
Thanks.
Yeah i was pretty certain i would have killed it if the gauge was giving a true reading. Will chuck a mechanical one on it as soon as i can to get an accurate assessment of what is going on I reckon
This is relevant to my interests.
Put my 25/30 together with standard RB30E oil pump. Shimmed it with 2 washers (approx 3mm) and had about 70psi at idle when cold. Running Penrite HPR 15w-40 racing full syn.
Was happy so took the gauge off. Got it tuned and drove it for 3 months. I have done a lot of K's and abused the shit out of the thing since (drifting so a lot of limiter bashing and clutch kicking, and also driven hard on street) and all seemed well and good. No noises or anything to indicate anything was wrong.
Then i did a two day drift event at wakefield park. I decided I would put the oil pressure gauge back in because I had it lying around. Early the first day after 2-3 laps I saw that at idle oil pressure would drop to 3-5psi at hot idle. That had me a little scared. I did a cool down lap slowly bringing the revs up and at around 6000rpm was getting about 50psi pressure.
So I went and dropped the oil and put brand new Penrite 15w-50 in hoping the heavier oil would give me an indication if it was just the gauge being dicky or if I had a genuine problem.
Still the same, had 60-70psi cold idle and then sat at 20ish or so when warm. After 2-3 laps it was back down to between 2-4psi hot idle and only had about 60psi at full noise (7000rpm).
There was absolutely no know gong noise or anything sounding like it wasn't getting properly oiled. Took fill cap off and there seemed to be plenty of oil in the head. Decided f**k it and kept drifting the remainder of that day and then did a full 5 hours of limiter bashing and extended periods of high revs on Sunday.
Is it possible to give it so much abuse and have it be fine with so little oil pressure? When I get a chance I will put a mechanical gauge on it to be sure but the 50 weight oils did seem to give it a few more psi at full noise.
Had multiple people look at it and listen to the engine listening for knocking or ticking or anything but it was fine.
I was pretty sure if I did have an oil pressure problem I would have killed it seeing as It had about 7 hours of abuse on track.
Any advice?
Plus you will be able to recuperate most of the cost by selling the nismos.
Also more info on neo shim under bucket setup? First I have heard of it (not that I have ever looked into it)