dyl33

You could try EFI Redline or Rolin Imports at Burleigh Heads, Or further up there's EFI Performance at Southport and AutoTech at Labrador. They would be my pick to check a car out. I would do a 100k/timing belt service regardless for peace of mind.

If GTR's are going to go up in price, what price will GTST/GTT's be in the future? If a R34 GTR is worth $70-80k. what's a GTT worth? Half? I've seen a few good condition R32 gtst go for near 15k. apparently Americans like RWD skylines too. If you look at carsales good condition R32,33,34 GTST/GTT prices seem healthy compared to a few years ago! along with a lot of 90's JDM cars.

Good stuff! I'll add this for extra info.

If they did a good job(unlikely) you could scuff them up and paint them. If not you will have to redo them. But IMO black calipers look better then cheesy red ones.

Search? There's 100's of diy detailing videos online watch some of them. Wash,clay,polish,wax is a start

Sell with roadworthy?

Anyone used Forza brake pads? Theirs not a lot of talk about them on the internet. I got f+r set of Forza fp3 brake pads, from brakes direct they recommended them over RESMA's and QFM A1RM pads so I'm giving them ago. Cant complain so far, no noise and very little dust and they stop good which is a bonus lol This is what's on brakes direct website about them. "Forza Performance - FP3 Special Brake Pad Compound For The Dual Purpose Sports And Circuit Racing Vehicle. FP3 - Forza FP3 Brake Pads are a specially formulated ceramic pad to still minimize brake dust and noise emissions while providing the fantastic brake control. The FP3 is the ideal choice for those who want to maintain great rotor and pad wear without compromising performance. The perfect pad for a performance daily driver or weekender that does regular track work! Upgrade for Endless MXRS/MX72, Project Mu HC+, Ferodo DS2500, PFC 97, Hawk HP+, Bendix SRT, Winmax W4 and Pagid RS4-2."

And IMO they do it all while still looking like some of the best looking cars ever made!

If anything its a testament to how well skylines are built being the age they are to take a life time of beatings and still go strong, if they break its because they are highly thrashed/modified, or the cars a nugget and likly the driver too.

It's probably not just skylines that will be worth money in the future, I bet a lot of cars from that Japanese era will go up too.

Yeah I know massive population and maybe a lot do buy them but after all the hype and the fad dies down you'll be left with a smaller enthusiast group and maybe some spastic car collectors Absolutely but they are only 25yrs old and some are in perfect condition, wait until they barely exist.

I doubt every american citizen is lining up to buy a GTR/skyline, and as if the prices are going to go skyrocketing maybe for rare GTR's with small build numbers or mint condition cars. but your average gtr/skyline I doubt it maybe in another 20yrs, And if prices do go north that's bad for all I wouldn't want to pay much more for them.

Ive got both blades in front of me, you can cut it yes, but its not the correct key and wont fit the ignition proply . It says what it fits on the box with no mention of s14 or ecr33

I'm pretty sure that will not fit ECR33 or the likes, the key blade dose not have shoulders so will be to thin.

800hp wat da hell you towing

Cheers bro thats what I was thinking I should do.

clean with just brake cleaner?

Hello guys, I'm changing f&r brake pads and front rotors, On the rear I have near new rotors. Do I need to clean any old brake pad material off the rotor before using the new pads? cheers

Any auto parts store should have them i.e supercheap. Also cut the top off the old one and stick it to the new one. so it fits back on the original holder

Hello Sauers, Ive made some logs regarding the usual bad start ups in the morning. If anybody in the know can have a look and see if anything sticks out to you. car is :Ecr33/z32nistune ecutalk532016BadStart1.xlsx ecutalk632016BadStart2.xlsx #2 Also when i turn a/c on all is ok until I idle and there is a slight knock in the engine bay(a/c compessor clutch or somthing) at the same time revs drop to 500rpm then go back to normal for a while then repeats every minute or so. until moving again, while driving somtimes you feel a slight dip/hesitation in power similar feeling to turning the a/c on when driving. repeats every few minute. A/C is still very cold. #3 I noticed in ecutalk when a/c FICD solanoid is active fuel temp goes from 80c to 140c in a instance and stays like that until FICD is non active? #2#3 I will make a log of what it is doing tomorrow Any ideas to my woes I would be most apprecitive

There should be 3 wires, 12v ignition/power, Earth and illumination/light wire (the small light around the cigarette lighter, turns on with the headlights) you would wire them correctly for the gauge to light up when headlights are active.

This may help?

I haven't had any issues yet with it coming up, I did find the surface needs to be very clean and you have to massage it into the grooves to get good adhesion but other then that she's been good for a few years now.

I replaced my foam awhile ago, Bunnings sell self adhesive backed foam rolls like this stuff http://www.bunnings.com.au/weatherseal-handy-mws5-19x25mm-3m-garage-1-28105_p4114647also good for sealing air box snorkel with the airbox

Absolutely beautiful