dyl33

No point owning anything if your not enjoying it. But everyone's situation is different If you have secure, shaded parking hell yeah daily that bitch yolo. if you have to park in random street/car parks with baking hot sun all day. And then factor in potential bogans, theft, opening doors, general no regard for another persons belongings, speed bumps, poor roads. I'd probably leave it at home. Regardless if it's a priceless GTR N1 or some peasants GTST/GTT that the owner has poured all their money into modifying. but really I'd rather comfort for a daily and all R-chassis lack this, although they are perfect in every way and were ahead of their time. they are sports cars from the 90's lets not lie to ourselves. (disclaimer* I'm sure a R34 GTR M SPEC would be quite comfortable)

Ok go buy them, so we can see

it was brought before the new system, so apparently auction and dereg papers are non existent.

Too some maybe. Absolutely they are something special.

I'm sure most of that if not all of the $69,000 price tag was in the 1 of 100 build no. Did I read that right?

Also you need better photos

Gm747 says after r32gojira's question ,"Yes e85 compatible, only done dyno time have been cleaned and checked and are genuine IDS, set of 6 suite 14mm rail, have plugs no adapters but can get them if needed." I personally would take that as confirmation they are genuine. when did you receive the picture of the injector? before or after the purchase Hope you get it sorted, i know it's not the injectors fault in your case but I'm very suss on used injectors and or cheap ones. Buy new and from a trusted seller.

Buy this http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-4249864/?Cr=0

Wait, you just can't climb in the ring with Ali 'cause you think you box! These are the additions, this is the basic layout of the car, and this is what it could look like when it's done. Red, green, whatever.

Unless you do a lot of drifting or track your car hard, there is probably little to no benefit to removing hicas. And then if you were to, it would probably be better to get a non-hicas subframe.

I'm not sure that a $50 metal bar is better then the factory engineered hicas system.

I believe that is the Australian compliance vin no. Not useful. The actual Vin no. is located in the engine bay on the drivers side firewall.

Lol 50k = R35 GTR if you have to sell, save and get a loan your dreaming

Post the VIN no. I'm sure someone will dig something up. Aussie_delivered posted about a R32 GTR with 14,000kms not long ago that sold for around $80k. If this car is genuine, You could hope for similar results.

Then there is nothing to turn down, issue's elsewhere.

What's controlling your boost? What ecu do you have? Could be misfiring because of bad coil packs or spark plugs

Yeah absolutely, last one I saw for sale was $1500+. If it's the last piece to your skyline puzzle by all means buy it. But if your cars fairly stock and you only got it a $1000+ cluster is the last thing you need

It maybe worth it, that is up to you. I wouldn't because, looks weird, price, 90's LCD screen, displayed info probably useless for ECR33. They are rare though.

Would it be worth it, probably not.

I remember this posted a while ago, looks nice. Glws

It's not that bad, this will decimate all after you put about fifteen grand in it or more, and if we have to, overnight parts from Japan

Snaked this from somewhere else it might help. "Voltage - the voltage the ECU is being supplied with.* Expected values: around 12V when car isnt running, around 14v when its running. Injector %: The duty cycle, or percentage of time the injectors are open for. If this hits 100% then it means the injectors are open continuously. This isnt necessarily dangerous if you're running really rich AFR (air fuel ratios), because you'd need to make a bit more power past the 100% mark before you lean it out to a dangerous AFR. still worth dyno checking etc if you're hitting 100% a lot.* Expected values: At idle this should sit at 1-3%, above this should roughly correspond to how much load the car is under, normally cruising/light loads you wont get much above 20%. Note: some cars may have 2 'banks' of injectors. Timing (degress BTDC): how many degrees (of a circle, rather than temperature ) before the cylinder reaches TDC (top dead centre, maximum compression) that the spark plugs ignite the mixture. Some peoples first thought might be wouldn't you just ignite at the top? the reason you need to ignite before the top is because combustion takes time to propagate through the cylinder, so you want to give ignition a bit of a head start so maximum pressure occurs at the start of the down stroke.* Expected values: generally the values should be > 0 (i,e, BTDC rather than after TDC, ATDC). this can be quite low at cold start up maybe jumping around like 3-10 degrees depending on car. Generally timing increases with RPM (at same load) and decreases with load (at same RPM). AAC: Auxilliary Air Control, is what allows air into the engine bypassing the throttle (otherwise the car would stall when you take foot off throttle if it was the only way for air to get in), in addition to the air allowed in via setting of idle screw (i dont know if that air goes in via same valve or what). basically this valve is controlled by the ECU and can open to raise idle (e.g. when aircon is on), often will be used to 'catch' a fast dropping RPM so you dont stall, etc.* Expected values: when the car is warm and at idle, this shouldnt read higher than around 15-25, any higher indicates that this valve is making up for an incorrectly adjusted idle screw (i.e it has to compensate by being continually open more, this is bad because it means it has less room to move, e.g. to 'catch' falling RPM, etc). I personally had warm idle AAC value up at 50-60 once, and this resulted in the car stalling when being started when it was warm (AAC couldnt catch the falling revs after start motor stops). O2 Sensor: oxygen sensor, measures whether the mixture of exhaust gases is either 'too rich' or 'too lean'. it doesnt really measure the AFR itself, because its narrowband sensor, and as such is more just a switch saying one way or the other, and the ECU uses it like this - when the car is under light load/cruising/etc conditions, it will continually adjust the fuel so as to hover around the 14.7:1 stoich mixture (or whatever the ECU/o2 sensor combination is targetting) ratio.* Expected values: when the car has warmed up, and is cruising along at light load, this should be swinging back and forth from 0.1v to 0.9v or there abouts. if the sensor remains at 0v or 0.3v (or fixed at any other value, these are just most common), then it is dead. Note: some cars may have 2 x O2 sensors. Temperature - the coolant temperature of the car.* Expected values: up around 80-95C (depending on car and fan turn on/off values) once warm. You dont want this too low (e.g. if thermostat stuck open) as the car doesnt run efficiently when cold. AFM - air flow meter: sensor that measures how much air is coming into the engine, which is generally synonymous with 'load' on the engine. this isnt necessarily linear measurement.* Expected values: i think this reads about 0.3v? when the engine is off, a bit over 1v when engine is idling, and up to 5.1v (full measurable load of AFM, but you still may draw more air past this point, which may lead to fueling/mixture problems? some (all?) cars may have fuel/ignition cuts once the AFM maxes out? Note: some cars may have 2 x AFMs TPS - throttle position sensor. measures how much the throttle is open. ECU uses this to know when load is changing i think because it does some fine tuning differences with fuelling depending on if you suddenly step on accelerator etc? dont know exactly how the ECU uses this.* Expected values: around 0.4v when closed, around 4-5v when fully open." check your o2 sensor is working, see if it swings the full range. If it doesn't and stays on 00.2 it might be fried, that could be an issue. Not sure if that would create lean conditions and retard the timing? Maybe go for a drive make a ecutalk log and upload it.

I'm not 100% sure, it looks ok except for the timing btdc 5deg seems odd for idle, stock should be 15deg @ 650rpm which it says under the bonnet. What this mean I don't know.

I have limited knowledge also but Airflow V- 1.48 = AFM Voltage O2 sensor V- 0.02 =O2 sensor Should flicker full range of the gauge when giving it throttle, I don't believe it does much at idle. Injector mS- 2.65 = injector latency AAC%- 20 = Aac should be open, at warm idle should be around 20, too high and can have trouble catch stalls and things Fuel Pump S/V- 1 = fuel pump s/v will either say 0 or 1, 0 indicates solenoid valve is not active. 1 indicates your solenoid valve is active F/B O2 lean- 1 ? throttle V- 0.46 = TPS voltage, closed throttle = 0.44-0.46 ok, wide open throttle voltage 4.5-5v ok Battery V- 13.68 = battery voltage