BakemonoRicer

I don't understand why people don't go & handpick the turbo from the shop. Inspect the thing before buying it. Also, I strongly believe the "casting issue" turbos are bought at a discount from BW and sold on for same price by the suppliers. My 7670 from GCG has no issue whatsoever.

Did Dale remove the squish pads in the head? Also, I'm not talking about my DET Build Something else is in progress....

Hows your $20k dry sump going mate?

What valves seats are you using Dan? The stock ones can crack when combined with O/S valves I will be using NASCAR valve seat rings with chromoly retainers.... definitely not titanium for my build, and no berrylium seat rings due to its incompatibility with E85

Mick, I think Brett's passion for a responsive all-rounder is long gone...that was pretty clear when he pulled off the v-cam. let's be realistic here.... we all know Brett loves Roll Racing & once he's spent 60k on the motor & dry sump I'm sure Brett won't want to get munched by a little 450kw+ EVO. Hence why Brett, I'm suggesting you put a ProMod 88 on, because when you keep losing at roll racing, that's what you'll end up eventually doing. Sure, the car won't be amazing on the street....but at least you'll get to enjoy some solid 'old fella' swinging at roll racing.

The only difference is turbo? You're going to be off boost until 5,000rpm anyway....so what difference does turbo size make at this stage? Save yourself the money - buy the biggest turbo possible - because I guarentee you won't be happy with the 6870 in a few months time....

Brett why keep taking stepping stones with your turbo choices just go a pro mod 88 and be done with it You say you’re building your car for roll racing... but a 6870 GTR is gonna get flogged by others every time

Lithium, the only people that seem to bicker & moan are the people that "DON'T" run EFR turbos. The blockheads that have never used an EFR are the ones that have busted a sewer main in this thread. They just can't seem to stick within their oil spewing Precisions & big bubba Garretts threads

Dose, a proper shop? Before you claimed your engine was NASA spec and led everyone to believe you reinvented the wheel, when in reality you blew the motor due to your bicentric throttle control and the lead weight you have for a foot. Limiter bashing is for Honda drivers m8... it’d make more sense if you put a B18C in given the 100kw might just cope with your driving style

lol 500KW & reliable...... Go spend 100k and then tell me if you achieve reliability. Pls m8.

so that's another 20k on the tab for dry sump? Billet not so cheap after all, but even cast needs dry sump!!!

Albins won’t want to know about it, it’s clearly not their casing My advice. Sell box, buy Samsonas, be on the road quicker..... My 2 cents

then why don't you go RD28???? Buy a block for stuff all and make a LOT More torque

I will pass on my quote to you once I get it Dan, but based on my head machining it was much more economical & the quality was bang on at what power do you think a billet girdle , billet main cap and 1/2” studs are required Dan?

Well let's hope you pick TRP, RD28 3.2L pls!!!!!!!!!!

Labour costs overseas are considerably less than in Australia.

Well, I'm happy to admit the internet was right. The stock bottom end couldn't handle the EFR or the drag head. After an enjoyable night at roll racing, a big misfire developed and 4th cylinder spark plug is doused in oil. Changed spark plugs & 20km's later, same issue and a misfire. I suspect a piston ring is on it's way out & haven't even bothered with a compression test. A budget rebuild was considered but after hearty chats with Piggaz/Micko, I've decided on the royal treatment. In the next few weeks the motor will be removed & will head overseas for the 2.2L treatment, we are talking Carillo Pro-H rods, CP 9.0:1 pistons w/ 0.200" wrist pins, & a billet crank. The drag head will also get refreshed with solid pivots / 270 procams/ new VCT. And before anyone tells me my gearbox will explode.....yes, yes it will.

mate this is why you need to get NAPREC to build your engines they do the maths

Paintjob looks mad.... did you take the strut towers off to do a rust repair while engine out? E.g. http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/IMG_0100.jpg http://blog.garage-yoshida.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/IMG_0099.jpg

Are you aware the CD009 will become the lowest point on the car? They hang a LOT lower than the chassis rails, just an FYI. What you need is a Samsonas.......

HELL YES!!!!! I can't wait to see this beast in action !!!!

Duncan I use a billet fuel hat with AN fittings and bulkhead for wiring. Factory fuel hat belongs in bin

I also like how everyone is getting big fuel system after everyone told me they’re not needed haha

Surge tank needs to be 8L minimum - take this from the fuel system king.

I've been spending a little time making some small improvements to the S15. I had the wiring for the speed controller modified with 4 Pin Deutsche plugs to handle some extra current, and fabricated 2 Brackets and mounted it adjacent the surge tank. After that, spent a little time detailing the original paint back to glass finish and finished it with Dodo Carnuba Wax. Emptied the oil catch can which presented around 15ml worth of oil after 5,000kms of driving, thus meaning there is next to no blowby. Should have the car out at Roll Racing next month, although damn, the itch to get a Samsonas sequential is wearing me down LOL