XGTRX

Why don't you do your thesis to reduce the road toll. 98% of accidents are due to driver error and not speed related at all. It's just speed makes more money. It's funny, I remember a German expert coming over as an advisor for the government to help in reducing our road toll...he recommended that we fix our roads, lift our speed limits and train our drivers. Well that was a waste of our money wasn't it.

Ever since I got a halech same. I just pause it to give it a chance to prime and then start it.

Why cant you just sand down the pads and rotors?

Thanks for the strut brace. Great condition. The packing was a work of art...a Picasso in the wrapping world:-D. It took me an hour to unpack it and 10mins to fit it...ha ha. Thanks again.

Went to heathcote a couple of weeks ago to watch some 8 and 9 sec vl s. Ran my clubby, didn't intend to, it ran a 13.9 at 112mph, the pisser was I ran a 2.9s 60ft. Ha ha. Couldn't get her off the line. Needless to say the guys are using me as their in joke now.

Nah it was Timberlake

20 years of unknown history running at 10psi, boost it to 22psi....you better be ready.....it's a gamble doesn't matter which way you look at it. As long as the OP is aware that you are increasing the risk of something going wrong. And it is far cheaper than what you are suggesting and having an engine fail and paying for labour and turbos again.

New factory internals maybe but 20 year old factory internals no way. If he does what you say he better be financially ready for a rebuild plus another set of turbos. Wrong way to do it and expensive. If he wants that power then he needs to build a proper engine.

Ooohh sorry. Thought he meant 26. My bad. Ignore my comments. Apologies again.

Disagree. Driven many singles and twins before I built mine. Twins up to -5s are much nicer to drive than any single setup I have driven. It sounds good in theory because it is good in practice

Honestly, leave it as is until your ready. Find a workshop the specializes in rbs and have a long and good reputation. Then get them to have a look at the tune to make sure it's in order. If you want 300 then -7 or 9s as mentioned and NEW stock engine rebuild. $10k should be enough. But then if you want to push it to 350 then spend an extra $5-7k and you will have a bullet proof setup at that power level. Remember if you want to track it tell your builder. One very nice car by the way...don't kill it with high revs if it's 20 year old stock motor

Just remember...There is standard internals and then there is 20 year old standard internals...big difference.

The first thing I would be doing is making sure the engine is bullet proof for the power. Oil pump! $2k today will save you $10k tomorrow.

Hey mate I am in a similar position with work though. On the week that I know I can't commit to the gym I do an all body work out as many times I can get there and bought myself a pull up/dip bar and some kettle bells for home.

Could it be due to an elevated immune response. Seeing that you are sleeping longer and more restfully could it be that your body has a better opportunity to heal and you immune system is working in overdrive. Just a thought.

Hi Roy. Just confirming before ordering. Can you please clarify from the following list. You mentioned the 350Z pads that I note are cheaper than the GTR pads however there are multiple selections. Can you confirm the pads that you suggested above. Thank you Fronts http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB181U-660-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-SKYLINE-p/181u.660.6293f.htm http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB545U-564-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-ENT-p/545u.564.6165f.htm http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB545U-564-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TOU-p/545u.564.6169f.htm Rear http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-SKYLINE-p/180u.560.6293r.htm http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TOU-p/180u.560.6169r.htm http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-ENT-p/180u.560.6165r.htm http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Hawk-HB180U-560-DTC-70-Brake-Pads-NISSAN-350Z-TRA-p/180u.560.6171r.htm

Thank Roy for the comprehensive explanation and advice. I will change the pads and fluid as suggested and keep you posted. Thanks again.

Thanks Roy. I will take your advice on pads and give them a go. Will they work well on the 5000s as you mentioned antz was using them. In the street and track?

Thanks Roy. I am just getting a feel for my setup but my intention is to do at least 10 a year. its a full weight if not heavier with the sound proofing (showing my age) and is currently on a very conservative tune of 340kw which I will be probably push above 400 as I play with it. But even at this level I am getting brake fade when pushing it through the twisties especially downhill. So I could imagine my first trackday will be a disaster. I am happy to take your previous advice and give it a go on standard calipers and your recommended rotors and pads. No sure on the current rotors and pads but can't see them lasting at track temps. don't care really about squeal or dust but wouldn't want no streetable performance as i do use it as a daily when I am in the mood. Thanks

Rb26 coil packs $100 Intercooler $100 CAS $200 Full custom 3inch catback coming soon will post picks $450

Good thing about F40s is that that they are cheap to run so the initial investment will be cost neutral after a few year.

Just look them up in the state section I think. Just do a search and take your pick. They are all gurus can't go wrong with any of them.

Calder is increasing their run off to bring the topfuellers back. Think they were talking about it re-opening end if the year. But heathcote is where to go to do heaps of runs. Some vl boys are going up this Sunday.

Nah from what I have read 343mm seems to be the limit for 17s

Thanks Roy. So what pads and rotors do you recommend for my application.