533 RYC

I'm 89.99999% sure I'm in for the twins, as long as I can get up early enough to wash the wagon, which unfortunately is for sale :-(

I want one! Wonder if they have a supercharged option......

What are the chances of two Lightning Yellow C34 S2 RS FOUR S's cresting the top of a sharp steep hill from opposite directions? Well it happened this morning...WOOHOO!!!!! Spotted a lightning yellow S2 C34 this morning on Gilbert Rd, Castle Hill this morning at 9:20 this morning. Flashes & waves all round!!!

Agreed Genelle, plenty of decent second handies for less than 3k. Might see you at the cruise on Sunday, drive safe Genelle!

3 grand! What a rip off!! Obviously they didn't want to do it, that's why they quoted you so much. Yes its labour intensive as its timing belt off, cams out & the valve assemblies are recessed in the head. I would quote around the 4-5hr mark for this job. Question 1: how smokey is it? Question 2: how many k's on the engine? Question 3: who diagnosed the problem? Question 4: do you know which cylinder it is? i.e. one oily spark plug? Statement: A possible cause of a leaking valve stem seal could be a worn valve/guide as a worst case scenario, but you won't know that till the spring is off & check the valve in the guide.

Had the same issue 3 months ago, the top part WON'T come off, so stop trying! The boot is installed from the top (where the shift knob screws on). This description is going to sound a little weird, so bear with me :-o Lubricate the small hole & the shaft With a lubricant (oil or water based, as long as its slippery). Guide the shaft into the small hole, OK, enough, the small hole of the boot WILL stretch over the widest part of the shaft without tearing. I had my doubt's, but it does go over easily with a good amount of lube. Yes you need a bush on the bottom of the shifter. You could enquire with gktech.com if they have a solid brass bush for the R34's. Some people like the improved shift feel they provide, but I'd stay with the factory nylon.

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!! In regards to kill switches, many years ago in a car I don't own anymore, I fitted one in the right hand air vent (between dash & drivers door) about 2 1\2" down the duct. It ment I had a 3" long thin bit of aluminum on my key ring. 3 attempts were made to steal it, but they never got it (it was a near mint XC Fairmont 378 stroker, top loader, 9" yada yada yada).

Get a set of shift solenoids, replacement INTERNAL loom (as most of the retaining clips will most likely break as soon as you try to undo them) for the tranny, fresh oil & a pickup kit. Check to see if you can drain the converter (if they have drain bolts - most modern ones dont!?!) without removing it, if so, drain & get enough fluid for the refill. Do you know how to fill a converter? Cold fluid with a malfunctioning shift solenoid will cause the engine to over work, hence the knock sensor code, ecu has reached max retard......

Me too! May 18th is off the cards for me though, as it the NSW SAU AGM at Toongabbie Bowls.

What's the damage on a check up? Don't get on fb much anymore, SAU takes up nearly all my time!!

Yeah, G35, & the R35 running a VR38DETT, both well into the 6sec territory. How good was the side by side 6.7sec win against the Gas Motorsport M3 running 6.9sec! Best run of the day! Saw you drive past me on Ferrer's Rd, I was walking on the other side of the road....it was pissing down!

Maybe me too again Luke, pending clearance from the wife....

Cole, you can check out these two sites: JOCI: http://www.odometer-check.com/ Or this site through Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/japodocheck Hope this helps you.

Hell yeah, best racing without needing earplugs!!

Are you using crayons? Exactly right mate, just be patient & wait. It'll happen, & when it does you can enjoy it without staring in your mirrors, & you can concentrate on the road infront. The problem with buying one before your off your P's is, RTA, DMV, RMS or whoever down in Dictoria probably wont let you register it without approval, even if you don't drive it. Get rid of the junk German stuff, buy a reliable japanese banger & save for the pristine GTR - they ARE out there!

Only just saw you in my mirror Nick, was distracted by my radio. Spotted a white RS4 (owner is on here) around same spot on friday too. See you Sunday Nick.

^+1 but don't over tighten them, as anti seize has very good lubricating properties, & gives a false indication of torque. Do them up very firm, but not mega tight.

No, it should just pop out, its just a matter of finding the right place to lever. I have to do mine soon too, would have done already except for a back injury. You can remove the shaft from the cup, just be careful as there are three races with needle rollers that can fall off (dont lose any, as re-assembly with just one missing means failure). Then you can pop the cup out of the diff.

Good to hear you found something. Sway bar links are a common culprit, usually noticed going in & out of driveways. Was going to say an inch of sideways play in steering is no good, there should be zero play. That much play will chew out tyres big time!

You just need to pry between the inner joint cup & the diff housing. For refitting the shaft, ensure the circlip is a snuggish fit into the groove (if its not, then it will catch on the spline & be forced out of the groove & possibly damaged), start the splines in the carrier & drive/force it in BY HAND. The circlip will compress.

Maybe reputable aftermarket brake manufacturers (Brembo, AP Racing etc...) might have something close.

Thats interesting Pete. Being torque to yield bolts, that probably explains why they aren't in rebuild kits. Are kits available through Nissan? I'd imagine the bolts would come in a genuine kit. Any torque to yield bolts shouldn't be reused, as they are stretched to near breaking point the first time they are torqued. Try it a second time around & they will 'soften up' (lose tension as you get near the max torque) & fail. USUALLY any bolt that has a torque requirement that is in degrees of rotation (angle torque) will be a torque to yield. Those types of bolts are specially made for specific applications, & you won't find them aftermarket. If you knew the tensile strength, you'd get close though.....

The 7/8'' would be the go. What setup is your 6 pucker? Ceramic or brass button? What type of center is it running? This is a contributing factor to clutch engagement. Is it a new clutch? How many k's has it done? If its fairly newish, & the adjustment is good, maybe it could do with a MEDIUM/CONTROLLED launch or two to change the friction point. After my 500k run in on my NPC single organic (re-stickered Exedy GTR setup) clutch I performed 2 medium launches (my Stagea is FAIRLY stock) & it changed the feel & friction point.

Small cars, BIG POWER & fast times! Not to mention all the other great stuff going on the day!!! Gotta love the Pro 20b's the sound is awesome! $25 spectator entry, can't beat that.... Check out Sydney Dragway for all the info. I've missed the last two years due to work, but I'm home for this one & the wife has been notified of absence!