boj01

Stainless isn't that expensive. A full stainless system with a hotdog resonator + a 4 inch cannon set me back $950. Its worth spending the money the first time around. Stainless is also a lot stronger so if you do happen to bottom out badly on a speed hump etc it wont crush as easy. As for the cat, depending on which state you are in and the laws, cats are still needed on pre '86 cars. I couldn't get my exhaust engineered because the engineer told me that if it runs unleaded it needs the cat. The Japs have used unleaded since the 70's!

I bet all the people who bag Excels/Korean cars have never owned one or anything similar. I had one for 2 years when I first got my license, did the usual wank mods to it and drove it like Skaifey and it is still going strong. It was driven hard day in day out, but I also maintained it. So don't knock it till you try it. It was was also good because it gave me a chance to save for my DR30. I admit that the earlier X3 Excels which weren't DOHC had a bad build quality, but some people talk out their arse some times about how bad cars when in actual fact they really aren't that bad at all!

Not enough back pressure?? I had a straight through 3" system off the turbo to a cannon exhaust and it was terrible, so I got a 3" hotdog resonator fitted and that has fixed it a little. What exhaust set up do you have??

There are certain tolerances for turbo shaft play. I think its about 0.2 of a something. If you need your turbo inspected because of the incident on the dyno, I would suggest send it to MTQ down your way as I've sent turbos there in the past and they are excellent at what they do. A lot of other places rebuild all sorts of turbos (i.e truck etc) and if there is one bit of movement in the turbo, they will say it needs rebuilding. They will then get the customers business, when in actual fact, the turbo is still in good working order and could last another 3 months or 3 years - a turbos life expectancy all depends on the application and type of use. Take this for an example: I've got a 25/30 on the shelf to bolt onto RB series motors, and there is the slightest shaft movement side to side - this turbo is fully rebuilt at a cost of over $1200. Customers have looked at it and said we've done a good job of cleaning it up to hide the fact it is rooted coz of the slight movement. So even "brand new" turbos have movement in them, as there is no oil in the bearings.

next weekend

R200 diffs also came in S12, S13, S14, S15 - R30, R31, R32, R33. If you investigate all the types of R200's, you should find the ideal one for your application. Being a DR30, the smaller R200's such as S13 etc will probably be your best option as the R33/Z32 diff centres are the larger type.

How do they sell them so cheap?? They must be making minimal profit!!

How many runs allocated per car???

Why not a stretched R34 GTR with 24kt gold paint and 26 inch rims as well??? :Paranoid:

what type of car???? :chairshot

It also depends on what suspension it is ecenshu (coilovers vs standard struts) and if the guards have been rolled. Amoore hasn't told us if he wants his car for show or go, and his car could be lowered more because there is no bodykit. From the pictures, there looks to be still a 35-45mm gap between guard + tyre. There is nothing better than a car with big mags, no kit and lowered to an acceptable height.

15 Year Old Rule!! Use it while it lasts.......

15 Year Old Rule!! Use it while it last.......

Anthony - will be going on the cruise I think, as I'm in there most Sunday's anyways. Yeah the car is slowly taking shape. Just gotta find a bung for intake manifold and do a little bit here and there. When's your car getting the FJ put in it??

Go lower, you just need to learn (and by the sounds of it so do some other forum users) which angles to take on certain raised bits of roads/driveways.

Stretch your budget that little bit extra and dont be afraid to pay more for a really solid car, as its better spending the money the first time around, than buying a shitter.

:bonk:

The Silvia front on that R32 looks horrible - some Japanese don't know how to maintain their cars either!

Thanks Anthony. Will just have to take mine out, measure it up and find one around the shed down here! Coz mine's the '82 model it doesn't have the factory greddy relief valve, only the standard Nissan type. On a good note, my interior is getting a retrim on Friday in Black microfibre/cotton material like in the R34, with blue suede inserts in the door trims and centre of seats. The trimmer is also remoulding the rear seat into 2 bucket style seats which should be heaps more comfortable!

Respray it the original colour, as an orange body and black sills + engine bay will look shit house

I feel sick.... yet some how turned on.

So thats the relief valve on the intake manifold. Ok, but if I take it out and bung it up with large metal plug of some sort, will this cause any damage to my engine????

Chances are you will have to buy brand new..... it will prove impossible to find a complete nose cut, so you might have to buy the gear from a few different shops. No-one has a lot of R33 Series 2 gear ATM.

Imagine the chicks he would pull :uh-huh:

Has anyone fitted a Turbosmart bleed valve to their FJ20 at any stage. I fitted one today, and it lifted the boost from 0.3 bar to 0.6, which was all a wanted to do, but at high revs when under load, it is like the factory BOV is opening up and venting for some reason. Any suggestions??? I think it is coming from the RH side of engine bay, and at first thought it was a boost leak, but double checked hoses and everything was fine.