GeeDog

I'd like to see some pics if you can.

Dan, Interested in more info on your half-cage? Was it supply only or installed for that price? Weld-in or bolt-in? Can it be upgraded to a 6 point later? Any pics. We are in a similar position - want to use a harness for trackwork, but not sure about fitting a harness bar if a half cage isn't much more expensive. On a side note, that harness bar from Trackart looks like the shoulder straps may run above horizontal for shorter drivers and/or lower seats, which isn't allowed in Cams rules.

I still have these lowered front springs for sale - Eibach 50,96 6340101 Make an offer....

Pretty sure the tow capacity is quite a bit lower for a manual Falcon - the auto is up to 2300kg braked (with the 2300kg towbar fitted) & I think the manual is limited to either 1200 or 1600kg.

For me it's about 40 minutes each way on a fairly flat road to either Collingrove hillclimb or Mallala track, so the FG should be fine.

Strik3r, After considering various SUV type cars earlier this year, including VW, Porsche, BMW etc, I bought an FG G6E Turbo with a 2300 kg towbar for this job - cost just over $20K. We've got an R33 GTST, and like you will probably tow it 10 - 12 times a year for relatively short distances. The FG is my daily, and is quiet & comfortable, with reasonable economy and a shit-load of power & torque. The trailer is being built now, and I know we'll have to play with car position to get the ball weight right. I recently towed the car on a hire trailer and realised I may need some torsion bars to level the combo, but the car's power made the job very easy. The FG is no more reliable than a used Euro or Korean SUV, but parts are cheap & readily available. It wasn't my initial first choice - son talked me into it - but pretty happy so far.

It seems an unusual combination - previous models (350GT) had staggered sizes with the fronts being smaller than the rear - in width & diameter - hence my post. Definitely not for brakes - the 19" rim takes care of that . If it was mine I would strongly consider changing the front size to 235/40R19, if the width fits in the guard ok (and it's only 10mm wider). This size is 14.5mm smaller in diameter than the stock size - and the rules (in SA at least, but pretty sure it's Australia wide now) allow for +/- 15mm from the largest or smallest sizes listed on the placard. Being on the front it won't affect the speedo reading, and I wouldn't expect it to affect the ABS/DSC - someone else may know more about this. The 7.1mm difference in tyre radius is negligible - it would be like having new tyres on the rear & bald ones on the front. 235/40R19 is available in several brands & models at reasonable prices. I know virtually nothing about getting through compliance, but would be surprised if tyre size changes within the road rules were not allowed. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be along soon.

Are you sure that is the correct size for the front - the 225/45R19 is actually a larger diameter (685mm) than the rear 245/40R19 (678.6mm). I would expect the fronts to be 225/40R19 (662.6mm), to give the correct staggered fitment. If it had 18" rims I would expect 45 profile front & rear.

So, a couple of months down the track, thought I would post an update on the brakes. We've done 2 supersprint events at Mallala, each with 2 drivers, so the equivalent of 4 track-days. We are both still alive, and the brakes are great. The extra rotor area seems to help a lot with reducing heat issues, and the extra "leverage" means the brakes work really well. Would I fit these spacers if I had my time over again - shit yes. Would I remove a small amount of material from the calipers - yes. YMMV - make your own decision on what's best for you.

Just remove the bit of the console with the boot attached. Remove the ashtray, remove 1 screw behind the ashtray the unclip the plastic trim that holds the boot. Under that is a rubber boot, held on by 4 bolts, and under that boot is another small rubber boot, which just lifts off. Remove the circlip & the shifter lifts out. Getting it back in is a bit of a job, as the bush tends to move sideways when trying to mate it - persist & it will go in. Filling is easy with a funnel or the top of a coke bottle.

You can fill the gearbox through the shifter hole if you can't get the fill plug out - just need to know how much to put in. Consensus seems to be around 3.8 litres, which just happens to be the same as 4 quarts if you buy Redline oil.

The model of your transmission will be on the original build plate, in the engine bay, along with the model of the engine & diff, and the paint code, etc

My V35 was insured with Shannons - annual cost was a bit more than your quote but city/country locations would account for that. The car was hit from behind, and was an economic write-off, Shannons were great - no hassles at all. They paid out the agreed value within a couple of weeks, and offered to sell me the wreck for a reasonable price. They were very easy to deal with. Everything was done over the phone. Based on that experience I would be happy to recommend them. YMMV

If you'd asked yesterday morning I could have measured them all, but they are back in the car now. I'll try from memory. All bolts are 14mm head, and I think 10mm thread. There are 3 longer ones - approx 40 - 45mm, and about 6 shorter ones - 25 - 30mm. One of these has a nut. Two of these (holding the starter motor) may be slightly longer. Best I can do for you....

Bump - genuine Nissan thermostat & gasket still for sale.

Bump - swaybars still for sale. $420 shipped by e-go to your local depot. Awesome handling upgrade.

Mine was auto with an LSD - confirmed both by code & wheels off the ground and both turn the same way. You can go to the following site - http://nissan.epc-data.com/ & enter the Japanese VIN (mine was cpv35-5005xxx - xxx is numbers changed to protect the guilty) and it will show you what options were fitted at the factory. If you hover the mouse over each option code you will get a description, mostly in English. Mine had the following option codes: CLAS8 - Premium spec DWHL8 - Shows "18(-0411)/19(0411-)ｲﾝﾁﾀｲﾔ+ aluminum +ﾋﾞｽｶｽLSD" which google translate says is "18 (-0411) / 19 (0411 -) inch tires + aluminum + viscous LSD" GLSSW - Privacy Glass TELV2 - TV/Navigation (DVD) Thanks to Rob101 who originally posted the link above.

Check the build plate in the engine bay - if the diff code is RC33 it is a VLSD

Oh wait, that's what he's trying to do. Yes they are horns. We only put one back in, and disconnected & removed the other one. We found somewhere nearby to bolt it to - a bit higher up the centre bar than it was before I think, and facing backwards. Just check that it's loud enough, and if not make sure your finger works (horn not working, watch for finger....)

Or from a forum dedicated to Skylines?

Not sure if it's any help to you, but we pulled the m/c out of our R33 GTST yesterday to rebuild - links to some pics to compare: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/kwgq4xnl3o215dn/AAAgSzuhlKIRaKlm9GUFtP9Ya and https://www.dropbox.com/sc/kjbmqxe74v1zem5/AAAOHXVD-ZY5cf4kpAptZKEza It's still out of the car - if you want any measurements and are quick getting back to I can get them for you. Might be best to send a pm as we'll probably put it back in this afternoon, if I can get new seals.

Just found this thread... I'd be very happy if you could fix my mis-typing (and not seeing it until it was too late) when creating my account, and change me from Geedod to Geedog. Cheers

Want to borrow (or buy) a consult cable for a few days - happy to leave a deposit.

Want to buy or borrow (for a couple of days) a consult cable.

Any how idea how much a set of Brembos or Akebonos would cost? What would be the best place to get them? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/443932-fs-v35-various-items-for-sale/