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The auto is fine for the drags, but if your planning on giving it a heap of power then the manual is much better. You can think about putting in a stall-converter to help with launches, but the manual is much more fun to drive.

See'ya:burnout:

The auto is good. It is very weak tho'.

The thing will need a strong rebuild, a shift kit of some kind, a larger trans cooler perhaps and a hi-stall built.

Alternatively a trimatic like the VL turbo's run would be a much better bet for serious power. The performance rebuild of a trimatic or turbo350 is very cheap, even after the custom install its going to work out cheaper for a tough as nails trans.

The dude TRY9, i think it was him, had a trimatic fitted to his RB and was doing 10's with it from memory.

Auto i guess easier just for dump and go... no brainer generally.

If you do up your engine and you end up blowing an auto box you're going to require a whole new one or a rebuild (expensive). I was quoted once $1800 for a new auto fitted, and that was for an old R31 (guess same as VL box?). Hate to think how much for R33.

In a manual most of the time you just blow the clutch (much cheaper!), replace for a bigger one and keep driving.

I took an auto for a drive when i was looking around. wasn't very happy at all. It didn't pull all that hard. it was in good condition overall tho'.

With manuals you can stretch the gears out more too.

But yeah autos are way cool for drags spesh for consistent times.

HI Stall big turbo combinations work really well, say your turbo doesn't make boost until 3300rpm, by getting a 3500rpm HI Stall as soon as you put the foot down your at 3500rpm instantly and at boost. There is a down side to it though, wheel spin is quite vicious and fuel economy is down while cruising as the convertor is basically slipping until 3500rpm.

Every Auto has a stall converter but there usually set very low like 1500rpm, a HI stall convertor just replaces the stock one, and no it can't be switched off coz it's sort of like a clutch that won't fully engage until the set rpm.

The car won't always be at 3500rpm(eg) but at the slightest press of the accelerator the rpm's will jump up to 3500, that's why the fuel economy is effected.

An Auto is the way to go

Think about the developments in motor sports today, all of the big ($$) teams are using auto boxes with manual selection through paddles/buttons on the wheel. Whilst I would agree that a stock R33 auto isnt a quick shifting beast, with a little work it has great potential.

The idea that you can hold gears longer in a manual is crap. I can select a gear and keep it there until the Porer FC's rev limiter cuts in (not a nice feeling), but more importantly you can set the auto to shift at the correct rev point. (no more going over the top of your power curve, and costing you time) every time without you having to watch the tacho (which moves too bloody fast anyway :-P )

As mentioned above boost comes on when needed via the correct torque converter.

The other advantage is that the throtle is held open for the length of the run (no need for the blow off valve to work) and hence no spool down on the turbo. (ie boost from foot down to foot off)

As to the idea or poor durability my R33 puts out 180 RWKW and has given no problems. (stock auto) My new auto (sharper shifts, higher stall converter) was in a car that was constantly given stick and put out over 230 RWKW.

My advice is dont listen to those who have not played with auto equiped skylines. (they probably dont eat quiche just because they were told once that REAL MEN dont eat it)

  • 10 months later...

I must say I went from a vl auto to r33 manual and manual kicks ass. So much more involved, used to get bored when driving an auto. The manual is so much more active and involved, like a real race car

I think manual is great for dragging too, everyone loves the chips in 2nd and 3rd when u do a quick shift :D

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