Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people,

Im soon to be getting my 1st car in round 5 months or so and cant decide whats better in my situation.

As im still 16 im limited to turbo exemptions and all that mumbo jumbo, i have to stick with the NA's for a lil while.

I've always liked my skyline's but when their turboed. but when it comes to pick over an NA R32 or a 300zx i cant overcome what would be overall a better buy...

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100509-300zx-or-r32-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think you would find a lot of 32s are in better condition. and i dont know from experience but i've been told by a lot of people that 300's have huge upkeep bills. but i assume that is more applicable to the twin turbos. both nice lookin cars. Non turbo so neither one is going to be a huge power house, so i guess its up to your preferance.

I would suggest the R32 also. Have also heard from a friend that working on the 300 engin is a pain in the backside. Apparently just to change a radiator hose you have to get under the car, or pull off the front end. The 32 is much better to build on and easier to mod when your ready. That would be my choice but it is up to you in the end.

My mate has a N/A targa 4 seater Z32. Power-wise (stock-for-stock) it would easily outdo an RB25DE R32. It pretty much kept up with my car when it was un-modded. Granted the engine may be a pain to work on, but for outright speed + interior go the 300... unless pricing is a concern then go the 32.

Dude

All that b...s..t about 300 is not true.Well one thing is and that is that they are tigth to work with. But appart fromt that they are exellent car to have.Even N/A will pump out 163kw which is pretty cool, will give you alot of grunt and that sex appeal of 300zx that is quite rare. Yeah well they will cost a bit of money to look after if you buy a piece of s..t that cost you say under ten grands.Consider this, 300zx was over 80 grands when new and was aimed at the big fish like M3, AMG and Porsche so that is the reason as why some maintenace tasks will require more money then r32. 300 is a grand tourer, not your average Joe from around the corner.You cant expect to neglect it, mind you if you get a helathy one and believe me ther are a few around if you dont want to bite the bullet and imoprt. Service it regularly look after it , hook up some good exhaust, dumP pipe AND set of filters and you will be on a good path to keep up with some v8, not only that but smaller capacity turbo engines AS WELL. How do i know? Well easy i had one. Last but not the least, do not buy AUTO as reconditioning is very expensive (over $2000) go manual which will give you a rigid strenght box with second to none problems

Cheers

BLACK R

The 300zx is a great car, most of the rumors are rubish. Anycar that has not been looked after will cost you a fortune....

Anyway for $10K forget the 300ZX you will be regreting it, as it probably will need abit of work. I spent $17K on my first 300ZX, it was an Aus spec model, so N/A and 2+2. immaculate condition, I wouldn't pay less than that for a Z or you will most likely get a rubbish car.

Even the R32 will be worn out pretty bad for $10K I recon.

Go for something alittle small first, maybe a s13 or something, and work your way up to a quicker car.

thats my 2 cents....

about 3 years ago now....

but look at it this way, you would probably have to pay something like that for a semi decent low km Z anyway, as they are hard to come by with original km's on the clock.

Aus spec models are your best bet, as they generally have a good service history. If i had to hazard a guess, i'd say every single import has had it's km's wound back.

Aslo, although the aus-spec is almost entirely identical to a jap model N/A apart from some negligable differences, the insurance will be alittle cheaper as well.

Just remember it all comes down to what you pay for is what you get. $10K won't get you a very good condition car.

Alot of mechanics won't touch it either as half of them can't even find the air filter.The mechanics that do work on the Z will charge you a fair bit, but some do a very good job and know thier stuff (insert plug for UAS here).

Nissan will charge you through the nose for parts... best to hunt around for bits online or at the wreckers, or to buy aftermarket bits for it....

Different strokes for different folks.

As has been said, both cars are built for a different purpose. You need to work out what kind of driving you'll be doing and how you like to do it.

ie. you don't buy a Barina to tour Australia and you don't buy a 740i just to get you to work and back, if you follow.

To the guys that have driven/owned the z-cars, is the driver visibility and handling suited to someone learning the ropes? I would have expected poor vis out the rear glass and the zed being a bit of a handful when reverse parking/carparks/etc.?

As mentioned, an N/A S13 might be a good option...? They don't look real flash but are cheap to buy, cheap to run and easy to drive.

I would love a 300zx,

I got a 300zx b4, but that got stolen, now i got a R33, gtst

which is not as dream to drive like 300zx,

The handling in 300zx, and the Torque just outstand the rest.

But yea, 300zx cost more to maintain, If ur still young,

i reckon u should go for R32, or something cheap, coz u dun wana spend too much on maintaining.

300zx do have cramp engine bay, since i have it for 2 yrs,

I have never have any problem with the engine, only top radiator hose broken and its like 5 mins task, the rest, just normal services.

But R33, cant go past that back seats, I can fit 5 ppl in there?? LOL...gosh, never seen such a huge sport car.

To the guys that have driven/owned the z-cars, is the driver visibility and handling suited to someone learning the ropes? I would have expected poor vis out the rear glass and the zed being a bit of a handful when reverse parking/carparks/etc.?

good point cowie, visibility is definatly limited at the rear, so you do need a good feel for the size of the car. I had a stillen type III wing on mine, and that reduced visiblilty even more.

I would say that in general even an N/A model is probably not the best choice for a first car. They are very quick and in the wrong hands very dangerous.

as I said before if he has his hart set on a nissan.... at the price range he is looking for, an S13 or N13/N14 might be a better/safer option... plus your mates fit in the car as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List:
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...