Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When I said wollop, I was referring to ingear acceleration, not from a standing start like in a drag. The torque is what will pull one car away from another and the f6s figure is substantially higher than the GTRs.

Dont get me wrong Im also a skyline nut (have owned 2). The f6 is about as close to a local car that can be compared to the GTR. Several months ago they compared (wheels) a R34 GTR, typhoon and a charger- they said the better car by miles was the typhoon. Now the Bf model with 6spd auto is even faster than that model they tested.

Well i didnt want to brag but since you mentioned the 34 GTR , i have one and when i got it from Japan bog stock with a catback exhaust ( i didnt have a stock exhaust ) i did 12.8 @wsid with a stock clutch as well . You can believe all the magazines you want but i have the run and timeslip to prove it .

The link supplied by Big Rizza shows a BA typhoon has done a 13.2 @105 MPH.( 6 speed auto ). Dont forget autos are much better for taking off from standing start .

How is that going to wallop my 34 when i did 12.8 @108 mph ? Standing or rolling start its obvious that i have his measure as i have the MPH at the end .Going on that run looks like all he will see is the tail lights and plenty of exhaust of the 34 .

By the way he wont have any hope againiest my R now as i have some mods and have run a 11.8 @ 118 mph . Whats more i can drive it everyday on the street it has very little lag and i can boot it anytime ( wet or dry ) with heaps of traction .

As i said before it may have ( i'm not sure that it has more power ) more power and more torque but it has heaps more weight too .

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How is that going to wallop my 34 when i did 12.8 @108 mph ? Standing or rolling start its obvious that i have his measure

Because your 12.8 was assisted by your AWD. Take that out of the equation - i.e. a rolling start - and the Typhoon may leave you behind. I said MAY - I wanna watch :P

Because your 12.8 was assisted by your AWD. Take that out of the equation - i.e. a rolling start - and the Typhoon may leave you behind. I said MAY - I wanna watch  :O

The whole point of this thread isn't a theoretical one. If you took away all advantage/disadvantages you'd be left comparing 2 of the same car.

Point is the GTR is more of a sports car.

Personally I'd rather an XR6 Turbo with 6 auto for $47k than an F6 Typhoon with 6 auto for $61k. There is only, what, 25kw between them? The price difference can buy a lot of aftermarket performance, both in terms of power and handling! THEN you can run with and defeat GTRs!

Until they power up their car... Then you will lose again...

The ford dealership in brookvale will become an fpv dealership in mid January. Booked myself for a testdrive.

For some reason I think it will put a smile on my face. After getting the chip reprogrammed its said to be good for 280rwkw.

They are very different cars, but there still 6 cylinder turbo charged. I must be getting old now Im 30 cant even believe Im thinking of even sitting in a ford.

.

How is that going to wallop my 34 when i did 12.8 @108 mph ? Standing or rolling start its obvious that i have his measure as i have the MPH at the end .Going on that run looks like all he will see is the tail lights and plenty of exhaust of the 34 .

the thing is the BA typhoon was a 4spd auto, the Bf is the 6 spd. Said to be a much better box with better ratios, can handle more power. Also has sequential shifting. With 550nm of torque at 2000rpm, I dont think it will see your back end if your car was stock in a rolling start.

Because your 12.8 was assisted by your AWD. Take that out of the equation - i.e. a rolling start - and the Typhoon may leave you behind. I said MAY - I wanna watch  :)

And the ford is assisted by the AUTO . How can it beat me if i was doing 108 mph at the end of the 1/4 when he is doing 105 mph ?

It works both ways the awd is better for taking off , just like the auro is but both are hindered at the top end .

One of the reasons i drive a GTR is the awd .

the thing is the BA typhoon was a 4spd auto, the Bf is the 6 spd. Said to be a much better box with better ratios, can handle more power. Also has sequential shifting. With 550nm of torque at 2000rpm, I dont think it will see your back end if your car was stock in a rolling start.

According to the link it was a f6 ( 6 speed manual i would think ) .Sequential shifting doesnt help you can hold the gears in any auto .

Well we will never know but my bet is he will be seen plenty of GTR exhaust on either standing or rolling start .

What makes you think that the GTR will be slow from a rolling start , dont forget it will be on full boost !!

I dont know how accurate the quoted power figures are either on the big ford .

I know the 300 kw boomies are not 300 kw .

Fix

Or

Repair

Daily

As a fitter I deal with tolerances all the time and I was interested to learn that Aus (and USA) have a poor tolerance scheme compared to Nippon and Germany their machinery is better and overall quality stanadards higher on most of their cars, but we're not talking budget cars here.

I think a lot of people underestimate the top end speed of a gtr, it doesnt die in the arse like a stock wrx (no disrespect intended as I like them for what they are).

from a rolling start my 100% standard r33 gtr used to often pull away top end from mildly modded gen3's with over 300kw at the crank such as the gts, so I really cant see how a stock typhoon is going to smash a stock gtr on a roll.....and if it does its not stock.

I wont even bother talking about a standing start

I think a lot of people underestimate the top end speed of a gtr, it doesnt die in the arse like a stock wrx (no disrespect intended as I like them for what they are).

from a rolling start my  100% standard  r33 gtr used to often pull away top end from mildly modded gen3's with over 300kw at the crank such as the gts, so I really cant see how a stock typhoon is going to smash a stock gtr on a roll.....and if it does its not stock.

I wont even bother talking about a standing start

It wouldn't suprise me to find out that your 100% standard GTR makes more power some GenIII's!!! "206kw" has to be a typo! Those early GenIIIs in the VT Series II were "only" making 220kw, and I'm sure many GTRs would match (or beat) that output stock.

Reminds me of the old R34 GTR N1 vs. HSV GTS comparison in Wheels years ago... N1 ran mid 4's to 100km/h and mid 12's to 400m. "206kw" hahaha :lol:

oh I meant the last of the gen3's.... and even the newer 6l commies. I dont have the gtr anymore, but it used to surprise me even when it was stock, it took something with a fair bit of mods to beat it.

I cant see how any of the new crop aussie muscle cars stock would hand it to a stock gtr...not even off a rolling start.

1 thing to say:

STOCK R33 GTR with RE01 Tyres, did 12.8second 1/4m

(dont belived me watch Best Motoring r33 gtr specail)

I dont know why people always use Best Motoring times to argue a point.

Most of the best motoring times are posted when its <10 degrees and times they get in stockish cars there can never be repeated here in aus. (Yes I have all the Best Motoring dvd's, even the special editions and hot versions :)

I was looking a a few F6's today while helping my num find a new car, very nice but looks to much like the stock falcon interior with a few extra bit of add ons. We ended up getting a new Yaris.

Have to say that ford have come along way and are now producing some decent cars into the market.

F u@k#d

On

Race

Day

HAHA - just had to put that in :lol:

I have owned 2 holdens, but only cause they were VLT's with an RB30DET, otherwise i would have waited to get a line.

One of the best moments i have had so far is pulling up to an XR6 turbo ute Mk2 and ripping him apart, he backed off when we hit $1.30.

I felt sorry for him spending that amount of money on a ford and getting ripped.

I was looking a a few F6's today while helping my num find a new car, very nice but looks to much like the stock falcon interior with a few extra bit of add ons. We ended up getting a new Yaris.

Wow, that is some serious cross shopping. The F6 is like triple the price of a Yaris!

id hate to break it to you lot....

next car im looking at late this year is a Black XR6 Turbo....

cheap, new, local, can be insured, and can make BIG power......

untill then ill enjoy my police attention, 2nd hand/hard to find parts, getting raped for insurance, being called a hoon, worrying about the car not being there the next day and dirty looks :D:D:D

*please dont hurt me * :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...