Rwc Issues

[ebola]

I had better marshal some facts before confronting my mechanic...

The list of Roadworthy concerns are:

F & R disc rotors - 2mm undersize.

Searbelts don't meet ADR's

4 tyres (cracked, don't meet ADR's) (big deal - expected this)

Fr Upper wishbone brushes need replacing

rocker cover leaking oil

So I am asking what people think of the list.

I have a 4 door manual gts-4 (and 30 days of VASS ticking away)

What size should my rotors be?

Do 15yr imports need to replace seatbelts?

(and)

how expensive is it to purchase (& mechanic to fit) Fr Upper wishbone brushes?

I have found some information, but I thought I would post it to get some opinions on it.

thanks

EDIT - as has been summised, it is an r32

Edited January 4, 2006 by ebola

[SteveL]

2mm is a fair way under size, but I suppose it's possible if they were machined down to their absolute minimum and then used _hard_ or for a very long time, although having both front and rears the same would be a tad unusual. I think the minimum front rotor thickness is 28mm for R32 GTS4, but someone might correct me, not sure on the rears.

Oil leak, tyres and wishbone bushes is fair enough. A kit of p/urethane bushes cost me around $100, but I fitted them myself.

The guy that did the RWC on my 89 GTR didn't even look at the seat belts, they also passed engineering inspection (VASS).

[Duncan]

They all sound fair to me, particularly the rotors.

New belts, rotors, bushes, tyres all sound like good ideas.

The rocker cover leak is a bit harsh unless it is pissing out, but you can buy new rubber gaskets and washers and put it all back pretty easy

[ebola]

Thanks.

Well, Tyres are no problem, but the suspension brushes, seatbelts and rotors are.

Where or how should I get seatbelts from (will ring tomorrow, and see if it includes the rear seats - guess it does)?

Where should I get the Fr Upper Wishbone brushes from? I guess Whiteline suspesnion (and who should fit them, as I simply don't have the time right now)

And the guy said front AND rear rotors - I could believe just the front. I will get him to specify *exactly* what sizes they are, but what would be the best way of going about replacing them. Hunt for z32? gtr? dba rotors?

As for the rocker cover, if it really is an issue, its easy to fix. Will post quoted prices tomorrow. And do some shopping around of my own.

EDIT - the car only has 78k km on the clock, and it felt like they were genuine.

Edited January 4, 2006 by ebola

[Duncan]

yeah new DBA rotors are the way to go. The minimum thicknesses are in the DBA catalogue on their website too.

Is the car new in the country or is this just an annual check? If its an annual check go somewhere else and try again. If it is new to Oz I would have thought new rotors, pads, brake fluid, engine, gearbox and diff oil, air and fuel filter would be a good idea

Cheapest bushes are noltec, then whiteline but you would need to do both sides. Nissan also carry them but they are more expensive. Any competant mechanic can change the bushes but they are tricky at home because you need a press.

Anyone who has been doing 15yo compliance can get the right belts, cheap. There are generic aftermarket ones that will bolt straight in.

[SteveL]

I would suggest asking the engineer that issued the VASS about the seat belts. If he (or she !!) is happy with them then VicRoads will be too and it won't be the first time a RWC mechanic has got it wrong.....OTOH, having new seat belts is not a bad idea.

With the brake rotors, as I said, 2mm is a loooong way undersize and the wear will be obvious even to the naked eye (heavy ridging and scoring). Since it's an import it's not unheard of for inspectors to misread the specs or use the wrong ones so it might be that the discs are actually fine, but you will have to have some concrete proof to present to the mechanic (eg Nissan specs) if that is the case.

Oil leaks are a mandatory RWC rejection item in Vic. Sometimes it's possible to simply degrease the area and tighten any screws or bolts and rocker covers ara common area because tension on the retaining screws 'relaxes' as the gaskets shrink with age.

I used Noltec bushes on the front upper links of my GTR and the kit was around $100 from a local supplier. Whiteline were about 50% more expensive for basically the same thing. Nissan don't supply the bushes as a separate item, you have to buy the complete upper link as an assembly at about $300 each or so.

[predator]

Brand of the seatbelts ADR compliant are Klippan. They should have been required for compliance and are required in all states with the exception of WA (I think). Just do it, no point complaining on them. Expect around $400 for full set however.

I just bought a replacement upper arm for $300 from nissan... and i think the mechanic charged $50 for installation. Really its only about 4 bolts, so that was a bit excessive. Otherwise get the individual bushes, and have them fitted .. in the end, if a mechanic is doing it, might not be much different to getting the replacement arm and fitting in 20mins yourself.

[Beer Baron]

the minimum thickness of all the rotors will be stamped into the edge. look at it, then measure the thickness with some vernier calipers. if they are above minimum then you will be fine, but i would suggest that is the check the engineer did.

you can't buy GTR or 300ZX rotors to fit your car. just buy the correct ones that match your brakes.

[ebola]

Update: Pricelist

Pads and Rotors: $721.40 (40c?!?)

Seat Belts: $815 (ow)

Front Upper Wishbone Brush: $638 Fitted

Tyres: $550 (205/55/R16 hancook)

If I read the dba catalog aright, R32 gts4 rotors are:

F R

part num 909 908

org. thick. 30 18 mm

min. thick. 28 16 mm

diameter 280 297 mm

I had a word with the mechanic, and he said he had the wrong specs for the rotor (but he didn't have the correct specs either). He thought 30mm, I said 28mm minimum. He said 'only just'.

Oh - and I know that I would have to replace the entire assembly and not just the rotor for GTR or Z32 brakes. But as has been pointed out, it is not worth it (well, not yet, anyway).

I know I have to replace my rotors - I just don't want to do it right now (cashflow... a couple of months).

What would make a brush unroadworthy?

Any ideas on cheaper seatbelts (and how hard are they to install) (and do I need a centre lap band or a proper sash (or whatever)).

EDIT: removed pointless question

Thanks for the advice so far. Playing tag with the engineer. have to get back to the mechanic.

so much to do, so little time

Edited January 5, 2006 by ebola

[4door_Sleeper]

There is a common misteak with Rotors. Most of the spec sheets in Aust listed the incorrect rotor size. Ie minimum thicknes was listed as the original thickness, so it looked like all rotors needed to be replaced.

(Get the mechanic to check this out, a car with a genuine 78K on the clock shouldnt have eaten a set of rotors unless thrashed.)

Seatbelts are worth replacing (what price do you put on yours or your passengers life) even though their MAY be nothing wrong with the originals. (but how can you tell for sure)

[ebola]

Seatbelts are worth replacing (what price do you put on yours or your passengers life) even though their MAY be nothing wrong with the originals. (but how can you tell for sure)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Like the avatar name.

I know, seatbelts save lives - I don't mind doing them, I just want to do them a little cheaper than was qoted. Which wouldn't be hard if I didn't have time limits (story of my life)

[ferni]

gr33dy is doing good prices on DBA discs. PM him.

[ebola]

The discs are technically roadworthy - though they will be replaced the next time I need pads. They are pretty scored. Note taken though. Thanks.

Thanks though.

Spoke to the engineer - he checked, and they are roadworthy. They should be marked with an E, but vicroads will also accept a JIS marking.

That leaves tyres (I value my life more than cheap rubber), oil leak (I'll have a crack this weekend), and suspension brush.

While its good to know it needs replacing, I think a second opinion is in order. And while I'm at it, I guess I could get tyres too. Since the quote included $50 labour (not that they said, and not that it takes long to drive the car across the road to the nearest tyre place).

Information Bulletins as News Breaks

[Duncan]

Update: Pricelist

Pads and Rotors: $721.40 (40c?!?)

Seat Belts: $815 (ow)

Front Upper Wishbone Brush: $638 Fitted

Tyres: $550 (205/55/R16 hancook)

Umm I think you need a new mechanic. I don't know where you went or who else to suggest in Vic but those prices are too expensive

Pads about $180 front and rear Bendix Ultimates

New Rotors $200 front and $200 rear

Its a 1hr job to do it yourself front and rear, or allow say $70 labour if a mechanic does it.

Seat Belts I don't have the details of what I paid last but I'm sure others do. However I am sure that they are less than $100ea and there are 2 or 3 bolts to do up on each one. Once again under 1 hour.

Bushes...as above buy the Noltec ones if they are $100. They are a prick to change but no more than 2 hours labour.

On the other hand, I personally would steer clear of any tyres you can get for 500 a set! Allow at least 1000 and get something decent!

[predator]

I would try another mechanic dude

[ebola]

Rotors - He was still iffy but I assured him I would change the rotors when I changed the pads. Its true.

Though I will probably take a weekend and do it myself, though.

Seatbelts have a JIS marking = Legal (took a while to convince him)

Enough on those - they are no longer an issue.

*I* am checking the suspension bushes tonight. Though he said 15-20mm play, so he cant pass on it.

And though I don't like my chances, I will try and bargain on the price.

Tyres, well, they are not the cheapest. But you can't budget a grand when you have already borrowed an (extra) two. That said, I want tyres that still grip OK in the wet. They should be fine in the dry.

finally, rocker cover. I'll arrange to take my car home for the weekend and have a crack at it myself, if I can.

As for another mechanic, well, time has got to me (I never seem to have quite enough). This time, anyway. I don't have to come back (and fix my own cars anyway - though this may be a little harder than my old magna)

thanks

[ebola]

Riiiight then. Updates ahoy.

it was $1300 all up.

$750 was for tyres. Hankooks

for the rest, 1 hr labour at $70, and $220 per side

I know, it doesn't add up - thats because my rwc is at home, and I am at work.

So after all that, The car is booked into vicroads for Monday (9:00)

Don't know what happened to the 'oil leaking from rocker cover', but I didn't bring it up. (and it hasn't been done)

My final question is the HICAS light. Its on (permanently). Is there an easy way to (temporarily) disable it? Or is it a fix it / dash out job?

Either way, thanks