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Hello guys, I have been reading alot of what you all have to say and thought I would fire a couple of questions your way -

1. I have narrowed my Hi stall selection down to either a 3500 or a 4000. What would you run in a 900kg car???

2. I have just changed from a single row SR20 radiator to a R31 twin row with two 13" thermo fans. Would this be enough to keep her cool???

3. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the Infinity air flow meter???

4. Does anyone think I will be driving a laggy bitch??? I read the RB20 thread and it has me scared. Looking for 320 - 350rwhp then 400 after rebuild.

Specs so far......

Datsun 120y sedan

RB20DET

RB25DET Auto w/shift kit

Garrett GT35R Ball Bearing turbo. Front a/r 0.7 - exhaust a/r 0.63

GTR Injectors

Remapped ECU - Not done yet

Z32 MAF or 90mm Infinity

R31 fuel pump cradle modified to fit std tank with Walbro pump

High mount manifold

38mm Turbonetics wastegate

New Monaro 300mm slotted rotors with twin pot calipers & 13/16 master cyl.

3.6 ratio Mazda Bravo diff with 5-stud conversion to match front

205/50/15 street slicks - 587mm OD

I realise its not a Skyline but any thoughts you may have to help me then that would be cool.

Cheers

Steve

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post-24062-1136377711.jpg

post-24062-1136377829.jpg

Edited by RB120WHY
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Hello guys, I have been reading alot of what you all have to say and thought I would fire a couple of questions your way -

1. I have narrowed my Hi stall selection down to either a 3500 or a 4000. What would you run in a 900kg car???

2. I have just changed from a single row SR20 radiator to a R31 twin row with two 13" thermo fans. Would this be enough to keep her cool???

3. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the Infinity air flow meter???

4. Does anyone think I will be driving a laggy bitch??? I read the RB20 thread and it has me scared.

Specs so far......

Datsun 120y sedan

RB20DET

RB25DET Auto w/shift kit

Garrett GT35R Ball Bearing turbo. Front a/r 0.7 - exhaust a/r 0.63

GTR Injectors

Remapped ECU - Not done yet

Z32 MAF or 90mm Infinity

R31 fuel pump cradle modified to fit std tank with Walbro pump

High mount manifold

38mm Turbonetics wastegate

3.6 ratio diff

205/50/15 street slicks - 587mm OD

I realise its not a Skyline but any thoughts you may have to help me then that would be cool.

Cheers

Steve

post-24062-1136377616.jpg

post-24062-1136377711.jpg

post-24062-1136377829.jpg

sounds like its gonna be a beast and i think upgrades to brakes and factory seat belts to come before the gt35 is added :(

sounds like its gonna be a beast and i think upgrades to brakes and factory seat belts to come before the gt35 is added  :(

Sorry ... it has retractable seat belt conversion and i have edited original post to inc brakes. Too many mods to remember all of it. Some more pics....

post-24062-1136380177.jpg

post-24062-1136380298.jpg

sounds like its gonna be a beast

If it gets up on boost. :blink:

I assume you have gone a .63 turbine?

The .63 should start going well at around 5000rpm maybe a little more. :S

Twin 12" fans without a shroud wouldnt keep mine cool in traffic. Would always boil. :D

Edited by Cubes
there is no point going that large turbo on a stock motor as it go boom very quickly

Thats the thing, i dont read too many sotries about an RB20 with a good whack opf power going boom because the internals just couldnt handle it.

Its often tune, poor fueling, detonation etc. Not doubt a std RB20 has its limits....and their is no way a std RB20 wcould make the most of that sized turbo.

But the fact is the engine would not be stresses with such a sized turbo as the thing would rarely be on boost, with only occassional full blooded runs to redline netting and real boost, power and stress. Well thats how i think of it anyway.

With the auto, and the sized turbo you are running, then my buck fitty says use nitrous to get the thing up and running. Then we will see how long a std 300rwkw RB20 will last... :P

Isnt the auto shift kitted etc? I thought that means in the process it is toughened up?

I agree about the response, but the only thing along with gas that i would be looking at is changing the diff ratio to a rotary like 4.11 etc Whilst the thing wont be responsive, you have to consider the light weight of the 120Y means it wont need huge amounts of torque to push it around, and the auto with a higher stall means the turbo wont stop spooling on shifts....

I stil lsay you will need a different diff ratio :P

Anyone want a cheap GT35R???? I think I will do the whole trial and error theory.

Just drive it and see how it reacts and change it to suit my needs later. The turbo is rated at 450hp??? i think so. I got the 0.63rear housing and even though its BB it will still be laggy???

Stay tuned for a cheap turbo... Never boosted. :lol: :lol:

a GT35R with the .63 rear is good for 620ish HP.

I reckon you should take a lesson from Nike - Just do it then see what needs to be changed later on. The worst thing that can happen is that it doesnt work or you blow up a $400 motor trying.

Give it a shot and let us know what the results are like :O

Cheers,

Matt

Sounds like a competitor with this cars setup.

I am doing the same thing with a drag racer.

RB20DE+T, around 900 Kg, 5000RPM staller with an all out trans braked auto, mini spooled 9" with gears in the 4.11:1 to 4.8:1 range, 30"X13.5"X15" rubber.

Thats the car in my avatar.

You can check it out at our site.

http://www.turboclub.com/Australia/Members/AU0000005/

The pics are 6 months old now so I should update.

I'm using an Autronic SMC management system to run the engine and other gadgets.

Here is some pics of the turbocharger, I hope they still come up.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00/ppuser/19114

Good luck with your car, let us in on the progress.

Cheers

Turbine

gt35r may be a touch laggy, i would go with a gt30r as it works well on my car......

also the motor should take it but a poor tune on mine did her in, oh well live and learn i suppose.

Do you have any specs on the tune itself that messed it up?

The RB20DET's are tough motors.

I had thermo'f fitted as I was going to run FMIC piping through the engine bay. The silly mechanic fitted 2 x 12" davis fans directly on to the core. They didn't flow enough air over enough of the core, resulting in overheating in summer (30+degree days).

It just happened that my dash coolant temp sensor buggered up so normal operating temp (half) was reading as just above C to 1/4.

In traffic temps would increase to around half to 3/4.

I was wondering why coolant was blowing out of the overflow and the car was pinging easily.

I drove it like this for a whole summer, I had the rad cleaned etc made no difference. I was told it was a head gasket.

I replaced the temp sensor at the end of summer and discovered that when the temp guage was hitting 1/2 it was actually sitting on the H and maxing out the guage, that being around 110+ degree's. As soon as I would hit the a/c and any kind of traffic it would creep over 1/2 so god knows what temp the coolant was. It was enough to boil it with a 50/50 mix so no doubt it was up around 124+ degree's, it also blew a coolant hose.

I then drove it for another 60,000km's or so still with perfect compression and no ill sideaffects. Damn tough motors the RB20DET's, the overheating saga and not blowing up on me definitely earned my respect for the buggers. :P

The motor was still fine the day I pulled it out to slot in the rb30det.

Edited by Cubes
what xmember did you use to fit the rb into the 120?

ive wanted to do this conversion for quite a while

Braced and modified the standard one with 5mm plate. I would not try the conversion again. There was a cockup with the original measurements and we found that it would fit nicely..... Until I purchased the engine and sat it in the engine bay and thought, fark what a waste of money. We decided to fit it anyway and have it as a drag car. After talking to some engineers/mod platers we were confident enough that we can keep it street legal, except for a screamer pipe. :P So far so good.

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