Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday guys, just after some help. now i reckon my bottom end is bout 2 go :) (i have a topic posted up in forced induction topic). a few people have said. i put sum engine treatment stuff in there and it stopped the noise for a lil while but started again 2day. so its goin off the road til yeah until its fixed or i find out what it is.

what i was after is advice for who i should take my car to for a rebuild(if it needs it) and also would ya be able to give me sum idea of what it would cost. i know its gonna b thousands.

i would love to b able to do it my self but i cannot afford the time and i dont have the tools to do it!!

thanks heaps for ya help!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

also guys can ya (if ya have had a rb26 done) give me a idea of what kinda price im looking at. im not really wanting a full on rebuild, just 1 to get me thro, new pistons, rings and rods, and bearing of course...not really after much more than that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1842260
Share on other sites

Nisspeed do all of Boostworxs machining, they have everything

in house aswell. Had a couple of motors machined by him.

But also have a mate that is killer with Nissan motors and does his

performance stuff at home, and is a engine reconditition by trade during the

day, cluey as and very,very fussy, will be doing my Big RB30/25 build

for sure, I will give you his number if you want to go that way, p.m me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1844063
Share on other sites

im lookin at jobs on mines hahah, so if i can get 1 then i will go the whole hog with the rebuild...if i cant get it i will just have to have the basics done!

Edited by Turbz_13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1849353
Share on other sites

naw just swap cars with Keir :P

Keir's Willall racing workshop has just been built.

I am sure Peter will have time and space to rebuild the engine soon.

From what I gathered the stock parts are pretty good. However if you will have the resource to go full out, Keir also got a spare OS 3L engine atm. I am sure if you offer a good price he won't say no :P:blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1850481
Share on other sites

does anyone have an idea of the kinda cost it will be??

A mate of mine just had his RB26 rebuilt at reamac they did an excellant job and my mate and i did most of the work (engine out stripped,back in,etc) and he spent $4500 just on block so it really depends on your budget and how much power your want to have at the end it can cost min $3000 to whatever you want Nisspeed is also excellant

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1876824
Share on other sites

at the mom i got around $5000...looking at saving as much as i can. i want to get 300kw at all four so i would like a decent rebuild. all forgies and n1 rings etc. not really wanting the engine to be bored, just honed. but see what happens, ill have to get what i can afford i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1878436
Share on other sites

hey mate.

just finished putting the 26 back together in mine

part including new (oversize nissan) pistons/rings, n1 bearings, n1 oil pump, tomei block restrictor (needed for the n1 pump), n1 gasket kit, gates timing belt.

total cost approx. $2900 (trade price - add 10% otherwise)

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100770-rb26-rebuild/#findComment-1878519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...