Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

go a r34 just newer with a more modern interior newer engine etc if you can afford it. But like the guys said if you wanna drift or just have a turbo to strap around in get the 32 over a 33 anyday

hmmm hard choice r32's are all hot i have one myself, s14s i only liked the series two's they look mean but now after watch the drift bible i really like his S14 S1 its nice, and in the r33 it can only be series 2

but depends on the use

Work out what you need from a car, then choose based on that. If you regularly have more than one passenger, then maybe the S14 is a bit too small. If you do a lot of highway kms, the larger R33 body may be a little more comfortable. The R33 would probably hold the cards over the other two in a straight line too, despite the extra weight (25% more capacity will do that :) ). If you want to drive like a nutcase, buy the S14 (and go join NS.com :rofl:). The R32 is probably between the two in character IMO.

Don't work your lifestyle around your car - get a car to fit your lifestyle!! :(

S1 S14s are shockingly ugly. They look like the front lights of a Camry. You’re never going to turn heads in that thing.

Don’t get this unless you plan on giving it a strawberry face (S15) latter.

33 is great if you want to do 0 - 25 knots in under ten seconds

32 is a 15 year old car.

just as a guide, my S14 had 175rwkw using exhaust, FMIC, pod, 1 bar boost, SAFC.

ran a best of 13.8 with all stereo, heavy 17's, full tank of fuel.

best 60" time I got was 1.9

my options would be

1.) S14

2.) R33

3.) R32

Oddly enough, the current car I have is an R32 4 door GTS4.

which ever one i get it's gonna be used as an everyday car so no track use at all.

but ofcourse there will be some cash spent on both cosmetics and engine. unfortunately i can only afford series 1 s14 and early model R33.

thanks

if it's just a daily car and no track use i say go the 33 GTST. cushy seats, newer, roomier (slightly) car and more torquey engine. that's if you dont mind driving a whale of course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...