Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI everyone,

If i got a FMIC for an R33 Series 1, will it still do a better job than the stock one, even if i run with the stock front bar? I know that obviously it wont get as much airflow, but the stock front bar looks really restrictive...

Just wondering if I should wait to get a FMIC until i get a new front bar?

Thanks,

- Crimpage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It will be better than the standard Sidemount Intercooler (SMIC) if it's mounted something like this:

Grill_Side_Front.jpg

So no, you don't need to upgrade your front bumper if you can fit the FMIC in a decent location on the stock bar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1846183
Share on other sites

hey Al, i just bought a type M front bar just like yours, though it hasn't been modded yet so i get more air for the cooler, i just want to know how your's is so clean after cutting the opening in the middle, ive seen alot of mods, though yours is the best to date, did you have to get a panel beater to clean it up after trimming or what?i hope mine is just as good when cut

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847078
Share on other sites

depends on the bar....

my old type M used to boogie with my ARC cooler and i didnt chop shit out off the front bar

u should side mount the plate and hit chaps straight after too

Not really.......

I have seen plenty of the early type bars with a neater install. Bassically that fmic, in Winks post, is too far forward, that is why the bar had to be chopped so much and indicators removed. I was compairing the two bars b4 i posted and the indicators are in the same position, the fmic appear to be the same size and mounted at the same height, but the depth of the bar is very shallow, indicating that the bar is a little to forward.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847197
Share on other sites

Was just about finished typing my reply and adding pics, then my computer frooze up ...................... :(

The bar was cut to just clear the fmic and allow max'm air flow, while keeping as much "depth" as possible. If you are using mesh you will need a 10mm gap betwwen the fmic and the edges of the bar.

The off cuts were then taken to a plastic welder, plenty around just look in the yellow pages, to seal the "cut outs"/holes. I only got the cuts i made sealed and the other gaps, from factory, were left as they were. The bar was then preped and repainted.

post-1811-1136767330.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847344
Share on other sites

yeah i had that problem with my fmic install, the indicators hit on the IC. I moved it back a bit but it still pushed them out a bit. Been meaning to get around to fix it up one day.

Do you have the optional fog lights in your front indicator assyembly?

Mine did and i had to buy new indicators, as the fog lights made the assy deeper, thus was hitting the fmic.

You can buy the standard indicators new from Nissan dealership for $75ea ($150pr)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847356
Share on other sites

with a type m front like al's will i have any problems fitting my hybrid fmic?

If it is a genuine Hybrid fmic, no you wouldn't, as i installed my mates genuine Hybrid fmic and moded the bar as required. Finished result was like mine.

The copies may be the same, but i have not seen them installed.

PS: The fmic is mounted so far back the the rear, bottom half, of the standard thermo/aircon fan is filed down a little.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847370
Share on other sites

Al: What does the FMIC connect to if you push the FMIC back?

I mean were there brackets used to attach the top half of the fmic to the car rails?

Above car is mine. :( I cbf making it look good yet. Too poor. Hence crappy looking front bar.

My fmic was custom fitted, it has 2 support brackets on the bottom and 1 support bracket at the top, in the middle.

My mates' (more than one) have the genuine Hybrid kit fitted. It comes with 2 long support brackets for the bottom and 2 short brackets for the top. We fitted these brackets as discribed, modified the rear housing of the thermo/aircon fan and the end result was like mine.

I have seen other 33's with the same bar as yours, but have kept their std indicators in place, all using various fmic kits.

Unfortunately without seeing your install it is hard to determine why your fmic is so far forward. I really hope i have not offended you, as it was not my intension.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847443
Share on other sites

My fmic was custom fitted, it has 2 support brackets on the bottom and 1 support bracket at the top, in the middle.

My mates' (more than one) have the genuine Hybrid kit fitted.  It comes with 2 long support brackets for the bottom and 2 short brackets for the top.  We fitted these brackets as discribed, modified the rear housing of the thermo/aircon fan and the end result was like mine.

I have seen other 33's with the same bar as yours, but have kept their std indicators in place, all using various fmic kits.

Unfortunately without seeing your install it is hard to determine why your fmic is so far forward.  I really hope i have not offended you, as it was not my intension.

ahh... yea i only put in the brackets for the bottom. There was no other brackets for the top. :rofl:

Nah not at all..

My car is a unique turd :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847487
Share on other sites

so would it be best to fit the i/c first, then mod the front bar - take the off cuts to a plastic welder, and then respray?

YES, spot on.
btw how much did it cost to weld the offcuts????

Did it about 4yrs back, but i think my mate paid about $80-$120. That included preping the area, ready for painting. The painter then preped the bar, as a whole, b4 painting.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101147-r33-s1-fmic/#findComment-1847500
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...